Im about to start a motor build and im wondering what kinda power & durability everyone is seeing/making with stock LB7 pistons & Carrillo Rods ?? This is going to be a sled pull motor only
Stock LB7 Pistons
- Thread starter chevytuf01
- Start date
What class???? If it is a dedicated puller I would to cast or forged, cause you will be back in the engine after a while to replace them. I see delipped lb7 piston working better in a street truck and occasion puller or racer, but i don't see them holding up for a long time in a dedicated puller.
2.6 class puller only no more street truck... its a toss up between fingers pistons or just a set of merchants delipped or a set of stock pistons coated
Fingers cast piston would get my vote....no point in not doing the job right the first time if you can afford it.
Pistons
Smart man Mike. Very light(748 grams) and very strong(never broke one). Fingers would be my second choice.
Smart man Mike. Very light(748 grams) and very strong(never broke one). Fingers would be my second choice.
Thinking about his also. They are about the same price. I do like the extra material above the pins
I am stock deliped and coated b7t my pistons have a time limit id probably do fingers pistons because they have more material next time.
I chose fingers because I drive a lot on the street and put a good amount of miles on, but if I were strictly pull/race I'd go forged
Mine will be forged. There has been a lot if miles put on the Arias forged pistons. I'm still up in the air as to what to go with
lol you guys are making it hard but seens like arias or fingers ... how much does a set of aries run ?
We ran a set of delipped LB7 pistons in my Chevelle this season with triple 66's. making upwards of 90 psi of boost. We put about 100 passes on them then they started failing. Burnt/cranked one in early sept replaced it and hit the track again only to break another. They worked well but have their limits. Never ran an EGT gage so we have no idea what we were running them at. Ran an A/W IC with intake temps starting at about 60 degrees and climbing to about 175 by the end of the run.
With a good supply of factory pistons that you could swap out when needed you'd be good to go. If not just spend the money, it will be well spent.
With a good supply of factory pistons that you could swap out when needed you'd be good to go. If not just spend the money, it will be well spent.
Ever since the Mahle Race Cast pistons came out that's all I sell. Only things I sell the OEM pistons for is stock rebuids or very mild builds using Lbz rods.
These pistons make it so nice with there options. All while having a wider bowl and keeping comp were you want it still without. Dropping off a lot when needing valve pockets. Also no strength lost from deliping these like stocker. So all gains across the board and skirt coating to boot.
thicker crown, more material between the bowl and the gallery, more material in the cross section below the pin bore.
These pistons make it so nice with there options. All while having a wider bowl and keeping comp were you want it still without. Dropping off a lot when needing valve pockets. Also no strength lost from deliping these like stocker. So all gains across the board and skirt coating to boot.
thicker crown, more material between the bowl and the gallery, more material in the cross section below the pin bore.
I did some careful measuring off the pin of a Mahle Cast Race piston and an lmm piston. The Mahle bowl is .120" thicker..... about 1/8", and a bit wider, plus de-lipped. You can also see more meat underneath the internal oil coolant passage. They come either flat or with valve reliefs. It's a beautiful piston, my engine has them. Wonder if any have broken.
As far as I know not that I have heard. Fingers uses the same Mahle race cast but in blanks to make his pistons also. So there holding also aswell so Mahle did something right with this piston for us.
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