Special procedures for welding shock mounts to rear axle?

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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Since I dont have a dang clue when it comes to welding, I need some advice.
A customer on the route said he can help me weld the rear-facing shock mounts to my rear axle, and he can also weld the tubes to the pumpkin.

Do I have to strip the axle down to just the housing for him to weld everything up or can it be done with the axle complete??

Asking b/c it'll be a biotch for me to tear everything apart again, then have to pay to have the diff set up again.


Thanks for any info/advice. :)
 

N2BRK

Well-known member
Dec 31, 2009
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I've welded 4 sets of tabs for my friends and on my truck. They were for long bars, but should be the same. I did them on the truck and fully assembled. The rear axle tubes are 1/2" thick, so welding some 1/4" steel brackets should be no problem fully dressed.
 

Budneeds2beers

Aka Mike Honcho....
Aug 25, 2016
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The axle is pretty thick and resiliant. When i trussed/linked the hell out of my prerunner it was whole and ran just fine. Keep in mind I welded it in sections and moved around. Is this for the aam? Didn't think you could weld to the pumpkin cause its cast, unless you’re setup for the process. But shock tabs I wouldn’t worry.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
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Like the others said, there is no need to worry about tearing the axle down. Just prep the tubes as needed to get a good welding surface and go to town. I would probably drain the oil if you are going to be welding the tubes to the center section in just in case it gets the oil a little too warm (it is generally good practice to preheat when welding to cast).

FYI, if you are reinstalling gears that have previously been installed in the same rear axle they came out of, there is no setup that needs to be done. This applies even when changing the differential. As long as the ring and pinion remain the same, the only thing that needs to be done is to check and adjust backlash which is easily done with a magnetic base dial indicator. I can explain how to do that if you're interested.
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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OK, thats a relief. I figured Id have to drain the oil, I just didnt want to have to tear everything all apart again.

Bud, its the 9.5" 14-bolt in the 1/2 ton.

Josh, I replaced the open diff with a Detroit Locker. Re-used the OEM gearset with new bearing kit/crush washers/etc.
I also installed a T/A Performance Girdle cover.



Thanks guys. Very much appreciated. :hug:
 

1FastBrick

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Dec 1, 2016
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OK, thats a relief. I figured Id have to drain the oil, I just didnt want to have to tear everything all apart again.

Bud, its the 9.5" 14-bolt in the 1/2 ton.

Josh, I replaced the open diff with a Detroit Locker. Re-used the OEM gearset with new bearing kit/crush washers/etc.
I also installed a T/A Performance Girdle cover.



Thanks guys. Very much appreciated. :hug:

What was the 14 bolt out of?
 

TheBac

Why do I keep doing this?
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Apr 19, 2008
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At the time I originally put this whole idea together, AXNs werent widely available. I bought what I could find.

Now they are getting much much more common, due to the 07-10 1/2 ton CC trucks 11-14 1/2 ton trucks in general having them from the factory.
Go figure, eh? Always ahead of the curve....


Was going to swap to 6 lug axles, BUT this housing has the huge end caps b/c of the OEM disc brakes, which precluded me doing it. So I stayed 8 lug and reworked the front from 6 to 8 lug. No sense going back now and spending all the money again, so Im staying with what I have.

Kinda weird seeing PY0s on a 1/2 ton frame, but it worked. I also get dual piston calipers on all four corners, which was a plus.
 
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1FastBrick

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Dec 1, 2016
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They still want alot for the AXN code rear ends... I have one stashed away. But at this point I would rather have the larger bearings in the 2500 LD style housing's

Going to build another one soon for my DD