Pulling hitch discussion

[cuminstrkmydmax]

I am looking for discussion on pulling hitches- what you think works best, what you think is bad, and why you think it.

We have a new organization in the area this year, and another has changed class rules up... pulling hitches are being talked about being legal.

Is it worth building one, and what are the pros and cons- or things to look out for with a drawbar style setup.
Or should i just stick with the reciever i have tucked in there already?

THANKS Steven

 

[Rhall]

Draw bar style is a lot easier to adjust, you can get it dead on. Make it where your reciever slides in, and its a "reese style".:thumb:

 

[cuminstrkmydmax]

Is there any other real advantages to a drawbar besides the ease of adjustabilty? Im thinking if you figure geometrically you could move you load point way farther in with a drawbar- but without having it setup correctly it will act just as a rear mounted reciever

-Steven

 

[Rhall]

Some people say there is an advantage, with most associations you cant go forward of the centerline of the rear axle, so yes, that could give you some leverage.

 

[cuminstrkmydmax]

Do most sleds have a standard length chain, or will it widely vary from sled to sled?
Does anyone have an length for the chain and hook?

-Steven

 

[timlb703]

Do most sleds have a standard length chain, or will it widely vary from sled to sled?
Does anyone have an length for the hook?

-Steven

4.6" to 5.2"

 

[cuminstrkmydmax]

4' 6'' to 5' 2''?
Thank you! -Steven

 

[maddogg101920]

id read the rules for all the places you pull at, most say reese style, no draw bars, hook point must be rear most point of vehicle, 26" hitch height, and cant extend past centerline of rear axle....just the basics for around here, including mod class.

 

[cuminstrkmydmax]

Trust me, I read what rules are available. I said that it was being talked about, rules havent been nailed down yet- just trying to get some info. And like Rhall said- a slide in reciever is what classifies a ''reese style''- all the other facets you listed are easily met:thumb:. -Steven

 

[maddogg101920]

Trust me, I read what rules are available. I said that it was being talked about, rules havent been nailed down yet- just trying to get some info. And like Rhall said- a slide in reciever is what classifies a ''reese style''- all the other facets you listed are easily met:thumb:. -Steven

just makin sure, im building one now and ive had to use a lot of rules from last year so i hope nothing changes much.

 

[bubba2400]

If the drawbar is not setup right then you are correct that you might as well keep the receiver if it is tucked up high and forward. Sometimes a drawbar can mess with the chassis in a bad way if it is not setup right.

A lot depends on how they write the rules for the drawbar also. If they put an angle limit on it then sometimes it becomes hard to get it setup right with how the truck sits. Receiver hitches are not all bad.

 

[Leadfoot]

Do most sleds have a standard length chain, or will it widely vary from sled to sled?
Does anyone have an length for the chain and hook?

-Steven

Any nationally certified big sled will have a chain length of 46" +/- 1/2" (minimum 7/8" grade 8)

Any nationally certified small sled (smaller tractor classes) will have a chain length of 36" +/- 1/2" (minimum 3/4" grade 8)

Length to be measured from center of sled drawbar pinhole to inside of hook.

Attachment point to sled must be a minimum of 1" above the ground and a maximum of 2" above the ground.

Homebrew and non certified sleds can be anything. Some sled even change chain length to adjust for different classes (the longer the chain the harder it is to pull).

Those that are good with math can figure out the angle assuming 26" hitch height (although it's probably closer to 24" when hooked and digging). Any mathematicians out there?

 

[Leadfoot]

a slide in reciever is what classifies a ''reese style''-

NOT for MATPA or SNETPA. Not that you will pull with either of them, but my drawbar "receiver" style hitch did not qualify as a "Reese style" with either (even though the end of the drawbar is a factory Reese receiver, and my hitch slides in). If the techs are lenient or idiots you may get away with it though. It all depends on the club.....

Alot depends on how the rules are written and how much you want to push it. I will try to get pics this weekend of my gasser setup. It utilizes a "Reese Style" hitch that will accomodate a drawbar (depending on what's allowed at a particular pull, I can run either).

 

[McRat]

If it pulls down to 23" it would be 30 deg without using a calculator.

If you want 24 or 26, I'd have to use a calculator. (sin (30) = .5, or when the chain is twice the height of the hitch, it would be 30 deg.

 

[bubba2400]

Yup, 30-34 degrees is where you will end up to keep it the same angle as the chain.

 

[cuminstrkmydmax]

30* is what i had remembered from past discussions- but when i was looking at it on a protractor the other night that looked really steep. Im pretty good with math, and tend to over think things sometimes- but if we end up being allowed to run them then i think that i could get it set up properly. THANKS Steven

 

[bubba2400]

Unless it comes through the bed floor or you have the back of the truck way in the air you will have it mounted so far back on the frame that it is not worth your time to change from the receiver. Also, how you mount the adjuster for the drawbar is where you will see your biggest gains

 

[Leadfoot]

Also, how you mount the adjuster for the drawbar is where you will see your biggest gains

X2

I initially set mine up for ease of use and swapping hitch styles (Reese vs. Drawbar), but now i wished I did my drawbar differently.....although I still feel a big difference between the two.

 

[Leadfoot]

If it pulls down to 23" it would be 30 deg without using a calculator.

If you want 24 or 26, I'd have to use a calculator. (sin (30) = .5, or when the chain is twice the height of the hitch, it would be 30 deg.

I'ld have to say that's pretty darn close.

You figure the hitch starts at 26" high and the attachement point to the sled is at MINIMUM 1 inch off the ground, the most you will ever see is 25" and closer to 24" if the chain is attached at the maximum allowed height of 2". Add to that most sleds the pan is not "on the ground" as you start to hook (in many videos you can see the front of the sled "lift") until the weight hits or pan hydraulically lowers. From there (even if you have solid suspension and hard tires) you have some rear sidewall flex, and the tire digging into the dirt lowers the effective hitch height. On cement (unloaded) it would be closer to low to mid 30"s, but on the track I would say 30 degrees OR possibly less as the weight hits and the truck "digs".

It's not an exact science so using 30 as a reference should be pretty good....