Last year I replaced my hydro boost with a reman from Autozone. The original was leaking fluid into the cab through the shaft that connects it to the brake pedal. Now it has a little catch in it as I am pressing the pedal. Sometimes i get 'feedback', press it hard and it springs back for a second and then compresses. The worst thing that happend is that the pedal get hard and then I have to stand on it with bothe feet as hard as I can to get it to come to a stop. (this situation sucks when I am pulling up to a garage to backdrag with the plow). So when this situation occurs, I have found that stomping on it really hard will release the hard pedal(wich sucs because then everything flies to the front of the truck). This is not an all the time problem, seems to happen more when I am plowing (lots of idling). Any thoughts on the problem or should I just cough up the money and replace it again?
Help: Hydro boost problems
- Thread starter workin' diesel
- Start date
Sorry to hear about your issue. Sadly so many trucks out there with a leaky hydroboost. Mines one of em! It don't leak enough to cough up the dough though. I'd imagine like a lot of things, the OEM part will likely work better.
Don't keep driving with that hydroboost! I had one that started doing what you say. A little kickback, then resisting. It only gets worse. I wouldn't want to drive an 8,000 lb battering ram knowing I can't safely stop it. I'd feel terrible if I killed someone that way. A leak isn't too bad, but when your brakes start fighting you, it should be fixed ASAP!
And learn from me, don't buy a used module, and don't buy an off-brand. Cough up the dough and buy an OEM (ACDelco brand) unit. The cheap ones will fail quickly. I am now an expert at changing the brake booster, something I should never be an expert at.
I got mine from RockAuto, paid $283. Looks like it is now up to $305
(though that tells you how much better the ACDelco lasts, since I've had it that long).
Might check your dealer to see if they are less than that.
And learn from me, don't buy a used module, and don't buy an off-brand. Cough up the dough and buy an OEM (ACDelco brand) unit. The cheap ones will fail quickly. I am now an expert at changing the brake booster, something I should never be an expert at.
I got mine from RockAuto, paid $283. Looks like it is now up to $305
(though that tells you how much better the ACDelco lasts, since I've had it that long).Might check your dealer to see if they are less than that.
Just to make sure that your Hydro boost is your only trouble you might want to make sure all your callipers are floating in the brackets and not hanging up too. That can make it alot worse.
Quality GM definitely. Put a napa one on a 1 ton van once and it made noise and kicked back and leaked.
Do you have any detailed instructions on how to change on of these things? I want to see if this is something I can do or if it's beyond my skill level.
I had a these parts replaced and worked on a few years ago
Had to turn this in for a core charge
It is not too hard. Take the lines off unbolt it from in the cab and disconnect the pedal and then seprate it from the power steering.
So the 'new' hydroboost has been in for a few months now. Not having any issues with it other than my pedal seems soft still. Anyways, was thinking that I should replace the high pressure lines. I was wondering I I could make my own lines. We have 3000psi steel braided, rubber coated hydraulic lines at work3/8 diameter. What kind of fittings do I need? Or is it just simpler to buy new ones?
I just flushed my power steering fluid. I had soft pedal and pulsating. All gone. Brake travel is now 1.5 inches higher, almost immediate braking when depressing the pedal. Replace your fluid!