Custom Cat twin Filter setup
- Thread starter Burn Down
- Start date
I was hoping to upgrade my filtration to a remote setup and was curious about this. My motor doesn't need the extra fuel yet, but I don't want to cause additional issues either.
It will add more strain to your cp3 trying to siphon through two or more filters. Best bet would be to a cat adapter for the stock filter head. I've got all my parts comming for my own diy and probably gonna be removing my nicktane adapter and stock filter head.
Have filter head removed got an vp kit in its place. came with an donaldson but will be putting the cat 49 in its place. I think I have the room for it. Its got an fass platinum witch is 1 water/filter. So Still only changing 2.
Your setup is nice
Your setup is nice
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Sorry to revive an old thread, but have a question about these setups you guys are running.
Right now I have a nicktane kit that bolts under the bed, and have a FASS 95. I want to run 1/2" line all the way to the cp3, so I grabbed the fittings for that too.
In the nicktane kit, it has a quick connect fitting to hook to the supply line on the tank, then another to hook back to the fuel cooler. Here's my question, is there a way I can bypass the cooler feed line and still be ok? Wanting to go: tank to pump, filter to cp3.
Right now I have a nicktane kit that bolts under the bed, and have a FASS 95. I want to run 1/2" line all the way to the cp3, so I grabbed the fittings for that too.
In the nicktane kit, it has a quick connect fitting to hook to the supply line on the tank, then another to hook back to the fuel cooler. Here's my question, is there a way I can bypass the cooler feed line and still be ok? Wanting to go: tank to pump, filter to cp3.
The fuel cooler is tied into the return side going back to the tank. However you set up your fuel supply to the CP3 shouldn't change any of the hoses connected to the cooler.
I agree with Dan Weazel. You shouldn't be messing with the fuel cooler lines at all... So Tank, Pump, CP3.
With the check valve, would it be better/more effective if you put it before or after the system. And which is better, a push or pull system as far as the pump/ filters go.(why)
The one way check valve is a bypass for if the pump fails and its not flow through unit. You would need to install it so the valve could get fuel from the tank side of the filter setup (pump off) but stop flow if the pump is running... Push seems to be what all these pumps are designed for. So the closer to the fuel supply the better.
So I'm new to the whole modification to pickups is that pump wired to the ignition so its on when the key is on or do you have to pop the hood and turn it on and off all the time
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Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
The pump is wired to a relay, The relay is a switch that is activated with a 12V charge, so you get power from a fuse that only has power when the key is on. It make it a lot easier then turning the pump on and off.
Thx brother I appreciate it I've worked on big trucks my whole life and know quite a bit but I'm just now getting into big aftermarket stuff I just bought a 2006 Chevy 3500 with Alison trans and the lbz duramax I had another one a couple years back left it stock but this one I'm gonna go pretty big on thx brother
The switch is for tuning... So you can have the key on to load tunes or whatever and not have the pump deadheading the whole time.
Been meaning to do the same to mine just never got around to it. Also thought about putting a momentary switch for when priming I can do it under the hood.
Clean install man.
So I'm a complete numb when it comes to ANYTHING diesel. What are the benefits of this setup? Only useful for built motors or ok for stock setups also?
Detailed install directions? Is it only DIY setups or aftermarket kit setups also?
Detailed install directions? Is it only DIY setups or aftermarket kit setups also?