bad oil pump pictures

M

mainer

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as many of you know i pulled the motor because of no oil pressure.

just got the pump off tonite and took it apart and it is bad for sure.

225k miles and its toast. you can see the wear on the inside of the aluminum housing. there is also wear on the gear that would be against this part of the housing.


oil2.jpg


oil1.jpg
 
TheBac

TheBac

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Ouch. Any idea what could have caused that, other than mileage?
What did the rest of the engine's guts look like? Everything A-ok?
 
M

mainer

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TheBac said:
Ouch. Any idea what could have caused that, other than mileage?
What did the rest of the engine's guts look like? Everything A-ok?
Click to expand...


no ideas other than mileage.

went to the track on friday night, ran well no issues, drove home 40 miles no issues. parked it for the night. went out saturday morning to pull it in garage to replace steering box .... no oil pressure. did not get driven without oil pressure
 
dmaxvaz

dmaxvaz

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mainer said:
no ideas other than mileage.

went to the track on friday night, ran well no issues, drove home 40 miles no issues. parked it for the night. went out saturday morning to pull it in garage to replace steering box .... no oil pressure. did not get driven without oil pressure
Click to expand...

IS The new pump cast iron?
 
M

mainer

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no gear was not slipping on the shaft

if i spun the pump with a cordless impact gun it would pump oil, but with the engine turning it did not pump any oil with filter off etc.
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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mainer said:
no gear was not slipping on the shaft

if i spun the pump with a cordless impact gun it would pump oil, but with the engine turning it did not pump any oil with filter off etc.
Click to expand...

that was at idle though Jon, but IMO it probably wouldnt have been a good idea for Foster to rev it up with no oil pressure [to see if higher engine rpm would make it start pumping]

Does anyone know what the ratio of crank speed to oil pump speed is?
 
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M

mainer

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ben, i could have counted the teeth on the pump gear vs the crank gear but i just got done putting your lly pump and the front cover /upper pan back on.

i also took apart that lb7 pump you sent me and it had a small gouge in it in the same place mine is badly gouged.

also put in my new front crank seal, wow do those go in tight, should be good for another 225k considering the last one wasnt even leaking yet, just badly beat up from being on and off so many times in the last year.
 
duratothemax

duratothemax

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mainer said:
ben, i could have counted the teeth on the pump gear vs the crank gear but i just got done putting your lly pump and the front cover /upper pan back on.

i also took apart that lb7 pump you sent me and it had a small gouge in it in the same place mine is badly gouged.

also put in my new front crank seal, wow do those go in tight, should be good for another 225k considering the last one wasnt even leaking yet, just badly beat up from being on and off so many times in the last year.
Click to expand...

Interesting...because that one has close to 300k miles on it IIRC. Maybe a high mileage thing...Id be curious who else has taken apart high mileage oil pumps.

ben
 
M

mainer

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new pump is in with a keyway / dowel pin and a notch on the gear so it can never slip on the shaft.

oil pans, front cover, flywheel bolts, balancer, alternator etc are all back on the motor. going to put it back in the truck tomorrow night and then work on getting all the turbo piping back on probably tuesday night.

hate not being able to take a day off from work and get this thing back together but work is too busy right now. and even worse having to borrow vehicles and slow ones at that hard to drive a tacoma with 160hp 4cyl
 
M

mainer

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stole the one from the harmonic balancer and then put a hardware store in for the harmonic balancer one.

figured it would be best to have the oem pin in for the reluctor wheel as it actually has some force being applied to the pin where as the harmonic balancer shouldnt be putting any force on the pin
 
M

mainer

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the gouges in the housing are deep, i've talked a bunch of people about this issue on the phone at length..... ben, henry, guy, jordan, tim judd

oil pump was the only logical answer after many hours of diagnosing before pulling the motor.


pull the oil pump and its gouged up so what else are you suggesting could be wrong.


also like ben said i could get it to pump oil with an impact gun spinning approx 1800rpms. but it would not pump any oil at idle with the engine running. and i'm obviously not going to try revving an engine that is not pumping any oil. what this tells me is that it was able to overcome the loss of suction ability caused by the gouges at higher rpms but not at idle.

it was also probably working fine the night before it completely died because the oil was hot / thin and easier to pump.
 
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Stingpuller

Stingpuller

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Jan 11, 2007
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Oil pump

It may be a stuck by pass valve or something. How did you turn it with a drill? It would pump better cold than it would hot IF that was the problem. I'm just trying to help but I don't think thats it from what I see. I have never seen a pump just go bad when a motor is shut down unless something broke. Jeff
 
M

mainer

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checked the bypass valve.... seems to be working fine/ not stuck etc


i took the gear off the oil pump, put the nut back on and turned it with a cordless impact gun with the bypass valve out.


my thought was that it was able to suck the hot oil up because it was thin and the cold oil thick.... and thats why it "failed/died" on startup

comparison like hot honey vs cold honey.... try sucking cold thick stuff through a straw with a hole in it (or a gouge in oil pumps case) or try sucking hot thin stuff through straw with hole in it.... which do you have a better chance of succeeding ???

also not positive all of this gouging of the pump happened all at once and it may have possibly accumulated over the last 225k.... no other indicators of why it may have failed so quickly other than miles. also 30k ago a year ago in june the nut came loose on the pump.... something i'm now considering that could have caused this is something wedging in the gears/ going through the pump and causing the nut to come loose at that time and potentially causing some of the internal damage.
 
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