Back Pressure Gauge Questions

yellowchevy

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2010
1,904
53
48
Louisburg, KS for now
I finally got around to installing my boost, EGT, and back pressure gauges I got from Meyer performance this weekend. Which took me ALOT longer than I thought it would, but I think it turned out really good.
I tapped into my driver side manifold for the back pressure going through an air compressor filter(with copper line), from the suggestions I've seen online, to help it not jump around as much.

When first firing it up all seemed good, everything was working and there were no leeks, which is a plus ;)
Leaving the shop I noticed a loud ticking noise that got louder as I accelerate, almost louder than the turbo whistle. When idling you can just faintly hear it. I checked the air compressor filter drain and that was shut.

When I got to the highway and opened it up, my after intercooler boost was at 20 psi while my back pressure was dancing like crazy from 20 - 30 psi.

So my question is
1. What the heck is that ticking noise? I'm assuming it's coming from something related to the back pressure gauge but I'm not sure.
2. Is that normal for the back pressure gauge to dance back and forth so bad?

Any help is much appreciated. This is the first time dealing with back pressure so I'm not to sure.
If I have to listen to that ticking noise any more I'm going to rip off that back pressure line :mad::mad:
I attached some picture so show my line mount and gauges(because they look soooo good, haha) :thumb:

Thanks in advance
Yellowchevy
 

Attachments

  • Back Pressure 1.jpg
    Back Pressure 1.jpg
    185.5 KB · Views: 52
  • Back Pressure 22.jpg
    Back Pressure 22.jpg
    180.7 KB · Views: 54
  • Gauge Pod 1.jpg
    Gauge Pod 1.jpg
    94.4 KB · Views: 45
  • Gauge Pod 2.jpg
    Gauge Pod 2.jpg
    133.9 KB · Views: 52

maine04max

New member
Dec 11, 2008
1,009
0
0
My drive gauge doesn't jump around . I used 1/8 tube and then used a 4' brass pipe with adapters , steel wool lightly packed inside the tube . the tube you used looks big maybe that's the issue ?
 

blk smoke lb7

<-----Lots of green $
Nov 8, 2010
5,694
0
36
57
belvidere,ill
i used 3/16ths brake line a reduceded it to 1/8th copper line before a
i entered the cab and went dirrectly on to the gauge without problem.My problem was i left it hooked up and went on 4 hour trip and i stated to get condin sation out of the gauge so i leave mine diconted till i need it.The gauges look good Russ:thumb:
 

yellowchevy

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2010
1,904
53
48
Louisburg, KS for now
My drive gauge doesn't jump around . I used 1/8 tube and then used a 4' brass pipe with adapters , steel wool lightly packed inside the tube . the tube you used looks big maybe that's the issue ?

I'm assuming you came off the exhaust manifold then to the 4ft piece of brass pipe then back to the 1/8th nylon tube to the gauge?
What dia brass pipe?
If you think of it could you post a picture?

I used 1/4" copper tubing.

Yellowchevy
 

yellowchevy

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2010
1,904
53
48
Louisburg, KS for now
i used 3/16ths brake line a reduceded it to 1/8th copper line before a
i entered the cab and went dirrectly on to the gauge without problem.My problem was i left it hooked up and went on 4 hour trip and i stated to get condin sation out of the gauge so i leave mine diconted till i need it.The gauges look good Russ:thumb:

Did reducing mine from 1/4" to 1/8" cause a problem or the air compressor filter?

How about the ticking? Did you guys notice a ticking noise once you installed the gauge?

Thanks for the complement blk smoke

Yellowchevy
 

maine04max

New member
Dec 11, 2008
1,009
0
0
Sorry for the dirty engine bay . As you can see it has 4 feet of 1/8 copper from manifold up to that brass 3/4 pipe then I have a electric pressure sender that goes to gauge . you could just hook 1/8 plastic tube on the other end , by the time exhaust get thru 4 ft of copper tube its cooled down .

as too my original post sorry its 4 in not 4 ft on the brass pipe and the tubing is 4 ft to let it cool off , it was a long day when I posted
 

Attachments

  • 120417_013.jpg
    120417_013.jpg
    157.3 KB · Views: 38

yellowchevy

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2010
1,904
53
48
Louisburg, KS for now
try putting a little crimp in the copper line. that should help stop the bouncing.

I'll try that first, never thought about it.
I put the air filter on from reading it helped to remove condensation and eliminate the bouncing, but being I used 10 ft of 1/4" copper line it may have done nothing, haha :mad:

Thanks for the help guys. Maybe this weekend I'll be able to fix it, I'll report back.

Yellowchevy
 

Dirtymaxx03

Active member
Aug 4, 2009
3,110
1
38
I'll try that first, never thought about it.
I put the air filter on from reading it helped to remove condensation and eliminate the bouncing, but being I used 10 ft of 1/4" copper line it may have done nothing, haha :mad:

Thanks for the help guys. Maybe this weekend I'll be able to fix it, I'll report back.

Yellowchevy

the filter keeps the lines from getting clogged by the soot in the exhaust. a little kink in the copper tube should take care of the bouncing needle problem
 

yellowchevy

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2010
1,904
53
48
Louisburg, KS for now
the filter keeps the lines from getting clogged by the soot in the exhaust. a little kink in the copper tube should take care of the bouncing needle problem

Wouldn't going from the 1/4" copper to the 1/8" nylon in the air filter do the same thing or is being there is so much volume going to the air filter that is causing problems?

Hopefully that stops the needle from bouncing and get rid of the ticking noise.

Yellowchevy
 

Dirtymaxx03

Active member
Aug 4, 2009
3,110
1
38
Wouldn't going from the 1/4" copper to the 1/8" nylon in the air filter do the same thing or is being there is so much volume going to the air filter that is causing problems?

Hopefully that stops the needle from bouncing and get rid of the ticking noise.

Yellowchevy

its probably not restricting the flow enough to keep the guage from bouncing, and are you sure that noise isnt a leak?
 

yellowchevy

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2010
1,904
53
48
Louisburg, KS for now
its probably not restricting the flow enough to keep the guage from bouncing, and are you sure that noise isnt a leak?

That does make sense. I'll put some kinks in it up by the air filter and see what it does.

I'm not 100% it's not leaking.
When I started it up I let it run and checked the connections at the manifold along with the air filter and didn't find anything. I kicked it up to high idle to check as well and didn't notice anything.
I could spray soapy water on all the connections like doing to tires to see if anything bubbles form :dontknow:

I didn't check the connection at the gauges but I wasn't hearing anything in the cab like when my old boost gauge was leaking.

Yellowchevy
 

TeaBagger2006

Im a Garrett Nut Swinger
May 11, 2008
3,123
15
38
Bis ND
Usually ticking noise is an exhaust leak. I used 3' of 1/4 copper line. I use a oil pressure gauge and it's digital. Had a moisture problem with it so I put an inline filter to fix it
 

yellowchevy

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2010
1,904
53
48
Louisburg, KS for now
Usually ticking noise is an exhaust leak. I used 3' of 1/4 copper line. I use a oil pressure gauge and it's digital. Had a moisture problem with it so I put an inline filter to fix it

It sounds different than your standard exhaust leak, it's hard to describe. I just drilled both manifolds while still on the engine, didn't remove them.
I haven't driven it much yet but the little I did there was no moisture in the air filter.

Yellowchevy
 

yellowchevy

Well-known member
Sep 9, 2010
1,904
53
48
Louisburg, KS for now
Got a chance to look into this yesterday.
From talking to Rick(thanks again Rick :thumb:)the rattling sound was from the copper line hitting it's self. I Zip tied the coils together and that helped alot, it's not completely gone but much better. I'll look at separating the coils so they don't touch and then zip tie it to other items to keep it from moving.

I also crimped the copper line right before it goes into the air filter to calm the gauge down, about a 2in long spot. It's better but I'm going to crimp it a little more.

Yellowchevy