so on the ol ladys truck one of the axle seals are leaking so i ordered 2 new seals from merchant but i cant find any info on tq specs and what axle socket i need anybody have any info or what all i need to do the job
axle seals?
- Thread starter dmaxman06
- Start date
And I could be way off memory here but I don't think there's a torque spec for that, just tighten till the play is right
I was told 50ft lbs by a few Dmax techs I trust
Uh, usually full floater hubs have a spec to set the preload, not a torque spec
well its not really a spec to stay at. bascially, a click at 50ft lbs, back off nut if the key way is not in line, and re install so its not really a toque spec, its just a way to preload and keep some preload when you back the nut off to get the key way to line up. bearings had no blueing from heat even after 100k doing this. snugging the axle nut, then backing off to put the key way in would tear seals up rather quickly.
sorry bad wording i ment pre load i have torn into a few axles but just never one on a dmax and i have some axle nut sockets but i just wanna make sure i have everything i need before i tear it down i have to be perpared the little po duk town i live in doesent have crap and the closest decent parts store is over 100 mile round trip
I torqued mine to 50 ft lbs and backed the nut off for the key way. That's what the gm service manual said and I put 100k on it at doing both sides. Make sure to put some grease on the bearing and then park the truck at an angle to let oil drain back into that hub.
if they are brand new or if you cleaned them off with a degreaser, its best if you put film of grease on them to keep some lube on the bearings till oil is splashed back up into the hub.
That makes more sense. I've honestly never looked at the book for these. Just always gone by the way I was taught.
As far as the grease on bearings. I prefer to oil em up, fill the rear end up, jack each corner up individually for a few minutes, top off the oil, start the road test gingerly.
If its a bench build and we arent installing the rear we'll put some grease on the hub bearings.
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Yes you are right I should have made myself clear. A thin film is fine what I meant was to not pack the bearing like a typical spindle bearing.
Yes you are right I should have made myself clear. A thin film is fine what I meant was to not pack the bearing like a typical spindle bearing.
Some guys like to pack them a bit. I'm not nuts about wadding them right full but no one I know that likes to do that has ever had a problem either.
Yes you are right I should have made myself clear. A thin film is fine what I meant was to not pack the bearing like a typical spindle bearing.
agreed
Yes you are right I should have made myself clear. A thin film is fine what I meant was to not pack the bearing like a typical spindle bearing.
A thin film is what I meant, sorry. Packing them would be pointless and might gum things up. Never thought about jacking it up to let the oil drain I always just used the small dip across from the house.
I've never liked the full on packing them idea, but I can't argue with the track records of the guys I know that do it either.
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Lubriplate 105 white assembly grease(most parts stores, Napa etc). Nice and thin but will stay put until it heats up, then it melts away into the oil.
All the tips are great above, just be sure to get the clip ring (over the hub nut) on exactly right. I had one come off and you do not want that to happen. Apparently I did not seat it properly into the key way notch with it's little tab firmly set.