Josh, I know I know. 4L80e builder friend gave me a killer deal on the converter that I couldn't say no to. He also recommended the Jakes recal kits.Jakes
1966 GMC P1000 (C10) Build
- Thread starter Bdsankey
- Start date
The Truck Norris cam from BTR is a little on the small side for 1000hp IMO. And it has a tight LSA, which would work but usually you go wider with a blower.
I'm not sure what the Jake's recal kit includes but you probably don't want to run it along with transgo parts?
I'm not sure what the Jake's recal kit includes but you probably don't want to run it along with transgo parts?
Initially it was going to be an NA build....... Happy wife happy life lol.
It also is hard to argue with the pure awesome sound a whipple makes.
If I ever ditch my 6l80 I’m going with an RPM 4L80, they seems to take whatever you can throw at them and still shift decently. If your going to boost it just mill some 243’s and run them, heads make almost zero difference boosted. My rcsb is a freaking blast, your gonna love that rigg. You going to plate the frame?
Last edited:
I don't know if I 100% have to plate the frame?
The issue with 234/799 is around there they're already $300-$1000 depending on if they need to be reconditioned or fresh from a machine shop.
I remember your pain back then.Jakes
Brad, you'll definitely want to box that frame in.
Alright, I guess Richard Holdener and the guys on engine masters are wrong and every builder I’ve spoken with. Please elaborate…
BTW Brad, look into frame stiffeners for those trucks. They're spendy, but might be what you're looking for.
You could always use 317s for your heads.
You could always use 317s for your heads.
I would definitely strengthen the frame brother. That lsa is gonna make instant torque and I’m sure your gonna use it. I love drifting mine thru the corners, my son loves it more I think though. Lol. Gonna have to get it stiff so you can have fun with it. Haha
Found 3 options quickly. Probably will end up with the summit kit to be honest. It’ll fit my exhaust the best it looks like.
Summit Racing SUM-770821 Summit Racing™ Frame Brace Kits | Summit Racing
Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Frame Brace Kits with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Chassis Stiffeners at Summit Racing.
1963-72 Boxed Inner Frame Stiffener, 1 Piece Driveshaft
New Boxed Inner Frame Stiffener for Level 1 Dropmember, Static & Stock Suspension Trucks Fits: 1963-72 Chevy Trucks
pbfab.com
Frame Stiffener - Classic Chevy Truck Parts - Tinworks Fabrication
ON SALE - 10% OFF Our Frame Stiffener will give your weak stock chassis the strength it needs to perform. Features 3/16 Steel Construction Uses Factory Holes to Mount Adjustable Transmission & Trailing Arm Mounts Works With 1 & 2 Piece Driveshafts Boxes Your Frame Rails Ability to Run up to 3...
tinworksfabrication.com
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When did Richard say it didn't? A head that makes more power N/A will make more under boost too. Yes you can just crank the boost up to make the same number, but you can't always do that. With a blower you're kinda stuck with what they give you for charge cooling, so any chance you can take to lower your boost or rotor speed and keep charge temps down I'd take it
I really want to Play with a set of those heads. I spoke with the AFR guy Last year about those heads at LS fest Told them they missed the boat on that market and should do a small bor set with smaller valves.... Look what they just brought out this year!
The only downside is they run a bronze type guide in them. You will want to run a roller tip with those guides to reduce side loading them.
The guy I spoke with from AFR told me they are the same chinese heads you see on the market but they spec a different guide and seat material which he claimed they provide to the manufacture. The only thing the do here is put the valves in, install the springs, And verify they seal. I am not sure I buy the fact they AFR supposedly supplies the guides and the seats to the head manufacture in China. More likely they spec a certain material for there specific batch of heads.
The only downside is they run a bronze type guide in them. You will want to run a roller tip with those guides to reduce side loading them.
The guy I spoke with from AFR told me they are the same chinese heads you see on the market but they spec a different guide and seat material which he claimed they provide to the manufacture. The only thing the do here is put the valves in, install the springs, And verify they seal. I am not sure I buy the fact they AFR supposedly supplies the guides and the seats to the head manufacture in China. More likely they spec a certain material for there specific batch of heads.
Y’all need to watch the episode about boost and heads. Then read some more, the upgraded heads made like 10 hp over stock. You have to run a huge amount of boost to make a difference. Hell, even extra cubes doesn’t do much. I went from a 5.3 to a 6.7 and only picked up 2 tenths in the quarter bc I changed nothing else. Blower limits power, not cubes or heads…
Oh the power adder limits the power you can make? No chit
Two tenths is still a good bit to shave depending on what it ran before, especially if all you did was a short block.
Two tenths is still a good bit to shave depending on what it ran before, especially if all you did was a short block.
I already wanted to go roller rockers. It seems like there are loads and loads of budget options out there in 1.7 ratio.
I think you're forgetting cost here. By the time I buy a set of used heads, have them reconditioned, install valve springs etc they will be within a few hundred dollars of a cylinder head that already flows more out of the box than a 243/799 head and isn't used etc.
I will then sell the PAC springs they include as they are not suitable for the cam I would run as they're only rated to 0.600" lift. The 125lb springs I have (26918CS-KIT from Comp) are rated at 0.625" max lift which covers the BTR red hot cam that I likely will end up with as it is 0.619"/0.617" lift.
Only thing head work and bigger cubes accomplished was lower boost with the same setup (mostly from head improvement) and wider power band at lower rpm (more cubes). I’m not saying that they make zero difference it’s just negligible is all.
I was stoked it picked up 2 tenths the quarter with the new short block. First trip out I smoked a TRX in the process, so that was a bonus.
I was stoked it picked up 2 tenths the quarter with the new short block. First trip out I smoked a TRX in the process, so that was a bonus.
Well called BTR and confirmed with them what I should do. They think a flat top (-3.2CC for reliefs) with rods (I'm going K1 HD), their "Red Hot" cam, AFR enforcer heads etc should run VERY well on pump and e85. This would net ~10.7:1 compression which they indicated would be fine at 15-18psi (don't know if that's pump or e85 but I have zero issue swapping pulleys).
The big thing is getting parts ordered so I can get the engine to the machine shop. I don't know when I need to use an o-ring or fire-ring but they indicated a good gasket like a Cometic MLX would be perfectly fine when paired with a decent head fastener.
The big thing is getting parts ordered so I can get the engine to the machine shop. I don't know when I need to use an o-ring or fire-ring but they indicated a good gasket like a Cometic MLX would be perfectly fine when paired with a decent head fastener.
I ran 14 to 15 psi on pump 93 for 65k miles just had to be selective with the fuel station. 10.7.1 should be snappy.