What did you do to your home/shop today?

Dozerboy

Well-known member
Jun 23, 2009
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TX of course
looks good for now. probably should have used a urethane based product. I would have used polyurea. my experience will tell me even with a UV resistant top coat it will still noticably start to "yellow" (actually more green) within a few months if exposed to constant sun. we always had problems right at the doorways that lead to the outside. there was always a noticeable area a few feet in that turned greenish. one year was enough to make the epoxy change to the point that it made the color under hard to see. any area that was exposed we would normally use polyuria or polyaspartic.

if you have a Sherwin Williams near, I'd ask them for some GP4844A01 & GP4844B01. UV resistant, high and low temperature tolerance, good impact toughness and excellent chemical resistance. only issue is it cures really fast so if you are not experienced then it can be a mess to use. data sheet will tell you that you can't go more then 15 mills but we successfully used it at more then 100 mills with no issues. a few oz. of Sherwin Williams reducer 132 also helps the flow and extended the working time a little. but since you've already finished this is probably moot. but maybe for next time or if you get the itch to redo it

Thanks! I've been using Total Boat products. Halcyon was what I used for a top coat. It cures really fast too. I had to crank my AC all the way up and still had some brush marks in it. I'll see how healthy I'm does and if I start notice anything I'll probably go to the Sherwin Williams then. The epoxy world really has me sour after this project. It will probably be my last one until there are more advancments in the industry. Everybody claims how good their shit is and then I did test samples just to realize it didn't hold up, wasn't as clear, or the color wasn't quite right. I've had enough of this project taking up room in my shop and I still got benches to make.

I don't know what all you do for woodworking. But total boat has a wood paint penetrating epoxy that's awesome. That's what I used on my patio. I did finish it with Spar Urathane, but it looks terrific now after a year.
 

2004LB7

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
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Norcal
I went through that same experience too. after talking to a few manufacturers chemists they've basically stated that it doesn't matter what claims are being made by the sales and marketing team, the limits of the epoxy chemistry are what's holding it back. its basically at the end of its road and the technology has been pushed as far as it can go. so no traditional bisphenol A or F epoxy is UV resistant even if they claim it is or have blockers or pixy dust in it. Bisphenol F epoxy has better chemical resistance and higher psi rating and slightly higher heat tolerance but it's about the same cost as a novolac epoxy which is better still but all are rooted in the same chemistry so suffer from UV attack.

for that reason many manufacturers are pushing their urethane resins and also pushing the claims too inorder to get above the competition. the main issue with urethane is it's inability to properly cure if applied too thick as they incorporate an oxygen molecule from the environment to cure and if it's too thick the oxygen can't penetrate deep enough. therefore it maxes out at a few mills. they are also extremely difficult to bond too so recoating is not easy.

over the last 20 or so years more research has probably been put into polyuria and polyaspartic then any other formula. not too many years ago the patent for a formula that was cheaper to produce and still had excellent properties expired so many more jumped on board to try their hand at manufacturing their own version. these chemistries have perhaps the best compromise for properties with UV resistance, high heat and chemical tolerance. fast and slow curing verities. can be formulated to cure in below freezing weather. and toughness is awesome. same basic stuff as truck bed liners and anti frag coating on AR500. they still suffer from film thickness restrictions but can generally be put down much thicker then urethane and recoating is still difficult. very easy to make water clear but can become slightly hazy if too thick
 
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