Meth: Testing a MPG/MAX controller - ?????

lotsofmiles

Father of the Van
Dec 4, 2008
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Michigan
Long story, I'll try not to ramble too much...

After running the mpg/max for about 140,000 miles I decided to upgrade to a 220 pump. My original 150 pump was fine with the 150ml mpg nozzle, but when all 3 - 150, 375, 625 kicked in it couldnt maintain pressure. PSI would drop to about 40. Not enough. So I bought the 220 psi pump and put it in. On the first trip with it I noticed the controller was saying it was injecting, but my psi gauge was a big fat 0. No pressure, no spray.

Called the Snow vendor that sold me the pump to troubleshoot with him. After hearing the problem he offered to send me a new pump, but I said dont, let me double check power lines and make sure something didnt come unhooked. Checked all that and went out for the next trip. Controller started the same thing, saying it was injecting but 0psi on the gauge. I went to change settings on the controller and noticed the left side was HOT. Ok, not the pump, but the controller was goofing up.

Called Snow and discussed the problem. Was told it was an overheating Mosfet in the controller. Even though I was OVER a year out of warrenty, Snow sent me a new controller - no charge!

Put the new controller on, and 3.5 hours into the first trip it started doing the same thing. Great another fried controller:mad:. Snow replaced the controller again, NO CHARGE!:thumb:

But now they tell me the mpg/max system with the 220 pump cannot be run at low boost. DUH. They changed the description on the mpg max system too. The new description says you can inject all the time, "at anything over normal cruising boost" http://www.snowperformance.net/product.php?pk=65

The old description says you can inject "even while in cruise"
http://www.alligatorperformance.com/snow-performance-48005-stage-mpgmax-0108-duramax-p-3019.html

I dont know if he is new or what, but the tech guy at snow has told me there is no benefit to injecting at low boost. Exactly the opposite of what articles on their web site say, and exactly the opposite of what I have seen over the last 140,000 miles using it.

So that brings us thru the last 5 months to today. I have the mpg/max controller set up on a primitive bench test. Trying to find if it would be possible to use the 220 pump AND spray at low boost while cruising, without frying the controller. The old 150 psi pump said on it "use 10 amp fuse" the new 220 pump says "draws 11 amp at 200psi". After countless calls+emails with Snow, the vendor I bought the pump from, and Labonte, I've come to the conclusion the pump, when used continusly is drawing too much power from the controller and overheating it.

I needed to see if the controller was sending a pulse type signal to the pump or just varying the voltage to the pump. The system is setup so that a power line comes out of the controller to the mpg solenoid, and tees to continue to the pump. Best I can find is the solenoid probably consumes 14 watts (if its similiar to the Parker brand solenoids)

At 25% injection I have a steady 3 volts on the display. Increase the injection to 60% and I see 8 volts. At 100%, looks like 12 volts. Its a smooth steady climb from 3 to 12volts. I'm assuming the controller is just sending variable voltage to the solenoid/pump.

I have a couple different ideas to get the system to work how I need it to:

1
What I'm thinking is maybe I can run a relay in the power line after the solenoid before the power line gets to the pump. Maybe take some of the power draw off the controller

or
2- or maybe do the relay in between the controller and solenoid

or
3- run the 150 psi pump for only the mpg nozzle. Add the 220 psi pump seperatly with its own meth supply line and its own power totally seperate from the controller on a momentary on switch. When I want some extra spray to help egts on a hill, hold down the switch until I'm done with it. For this option I would probably have to pull the 625 nozzle and go with 2 - 375s. Already know that under 25 psi boost all 3 (175, 375, 625) spraying is too much.

4 - Any other thoughts or ideas?

Hopefully this makes sense. Now I have to get all this stuff out of the living room before the wife gets home:eek:
 

lotsofmiles

Father of the Van
Dec 4, 2008
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Michigan
wired in a solid state mosfet relay. tested with the multimeter and looks like it is going to do the trick.

switched over the supply lines to 3/8th also. Store was out of 3/8th elbows but when they come in it'll clean up the lines.


IMG_0144.jpg



IMG_0151.jpg
 

lotsofmiles

Father of the Van
Dec 4, 2008
3,097
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Michigan
ok. the solid state mosfet relay took the draw of the pump off the controller, but....

After 15 minutes the internals start getting hot to the touch.

There is 2 - IRF4905 looks like they are parallel. attached is the pic of the innards. The 2 mosfets are under the round silver thing on the left. the round silver thing is a chessey heat sink.

Can I 'upgrade' the mosfets to something that can handle the power better? or is there a bigger issue here?

This is the mosfet that is used inside the controller:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/st...ecoall&ddkey=http:ParametricSearchResultsView

Since I seperated the pump draw off the controller there is only the load of the solenoid about 15 watts.

I added another heat sink that was big enough I couldnt get the covers back on the controller and even running with the heat sink and the covers off the mosfet & heat sinks were burning hot to the touch with in 20 minutes.


Just a hint, if anyone is considering h20/meth - I'd stay away from the mpg/max kit for a while. they changed something, and there is an issue with constant injection and I'm about ready to rip it out and run it over :mad:
 

lotsofmiles

Father of the Van
Dec 4, 2008
3,097
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Michigan
The cheesy heat sink on the left has a nut and lock washer on it ???
The nut looks loose....

yup. thats the factory 'heat sink'

ran it with a real heat sink and the covers off for 20 minutes and it was 120 degrees and rising on my laser thermometer so I shut it off.

I think aftermarket cooling isnt the answer. there is an issue with constant injection overheating the mosfets.
And this is from a system that I used to be able to run all day, 18-19 hours straight.

:eek: I drove 1083 miles yesterday:eek::eek:
 

lotsofmiles

Father of the Van
Dec 4, 2008
3,097
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Michigan
my nuts not loose



edit

oh that nut

it wasnt loose either. had a lock washer and needed a screw driver and wrench to loosen.

It was just alum spacers for the heat sink
 

maxxflip

New member
Apr 25, 2009
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Alberta
I wasnt talkin about the nut behind the wheel :rofl:

That mosfet says its rated for ~350 F, you said you stopped your test at 120 F...

Do you now what temp it was at when it said it was spraying but your gauge said 0 psi ?
 

lotsofmiles

Father of the Van
Dec 4, 2008
3,097
0
0
Michigan
today was the first day I had it apart and checked temp.

So maybe its ok to get warm?

Its just the last two controllers started getting hot, then fried and stopped working all together. Trying to troubleshoot and fix this one before it fries. but I guess at $1 per mosfet why not push it to the limit :)
 

lotsofmiles

Father of the Van
Dec 4, 2008
3,097
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0
Michigan
a little over the 14 hour limit lol?

i used to do that shit then it was like a lightswitch and it got REALLY REALLY hard to keep up with my 1000 milesday average

Theres limits to this stuff?!?!

9700 lbs 31 ft 5th wheel, purred right along, lost track of time:eek:

IMG00685-20101229-1200.jpg



15 more months and I bet my attitude and motovation will change:baby:
 

lotsofmiles

Father of the Van
Dec 4, 2008
3,097
0
0
Michigan
btw that was a nice trailer. Dealer cost was more than I paid for my truck tho:eek:

iirc 42 inch lcd tv in living room + 19 lcd in bedroom, washer dryer prep, LARGE 4 door fridge, 4 slides