Straight driveline by lowering?

sneaky98gt

Member
Nov 5, 2013
109
20
18
2003 CCSB here.

My rear is dropped with a "3 inch drop shackle" (it was actually more like 2-1/4") and I have the overload removed, which was just under 1". So it's an actual solid 3" lower in the rear. I did the math, and that would have resulted in a slightly more than 4 degree change in pinion angle, so I put 4 degree shims in. No clue if this is necessary, but it has zero vibration or noises of any sort for 30k miles now. I also swapped the worn out cheapo Monroe shocks (rear only) for some KYBs that were, I think, about 3 inches shorter, so that I could actually use the entire compression travel.

Then I dropped the front by de-cranking the torsion bars until the front was about 1/2" lower than the rear as measured by the fenderwells. I forget exactly how much of a drop that was, but I think it was around 2" from what I assume was stock.

With this setup, the truck drives extremely well, it rides extremely well (significantly better than stock), I still clear a 305/50R20 in the front with only a tiny bit of the front valence trimmed, and the CV angles are level or maybe just slightly negative. It launches in 4WD about as smooth as any truck I've ever been in.

Everything else is 100% factory.

I did add some custom outside-the-frame airbags since I do some towing and/or hauling with a good bit of weight in the bed, and I don't like the headlights pointing way up with a load. With the 3 inches of drop in the rear, the standard under-the-frame bag kits won't fit at all, and if you make one fit with single-bellow bags instead of the double-bellows, it will ride absolutely horrid. Been there, done that, don't recommend.

I'm gonna try and get some pictures this weekend actually.
 

fl0w3n

Active member
Jan 8, 2015
508
25
28
I'll agree with Brad on going a little overkill, there's definitely some massaging you can do to get what you want, and probably for less $

This was my 06 after lots of tweaking, on a 4-6 Cognito kit. You can see my CV's are actually just barely past level in the other direction and are now pointing down towards the differential. If I wanted to raise it back up a little I could have gotten them perfectly bubble level, but I wanted it low. This truck sat pretty much level with a stock 2500 4wd, and lower than 6.7 power strokes. It rode absolutely amazing, but I never towed the size loads you're talking about. Regular trailers towed great though.

This was with 35's, Cognito 4-6 kit, fabbed up jounce stop mounts, and McGaughy's lowering keys.

crIKZb1.jpg
 
Last edited:

MackeyLB7

New member
Jul 10, 2020
29
1
3
2003 CCSB here.

My rear is dropped with a "3 inch drop shackle" (it was actually more like 2-1/4") and I have the overload removed, which was just under 1". So it's an actual solid 3" lower in the rear. I did the math, and that would have resulted in a slightly more than 4 degree change in pinion angle, so I put 4 degree shims in. No clue if this is necessary, but it has zero vibration or noises of any sort for 30k miles now. I also swapped the worn out cheapo Monroe shocks (rear only) for some KYBs that were, I think, about 3 inches shorter, so that I could actually use the entire compression travel.

Then I dropped the front by de-cranking the torsion bars until the front was about 1/2" lower than the rear as measured by the fenderwells. I forget exactly how much of a drop that was, but I think it was around 2" from what I assume was stock.

With this setup, the truck drives extremely well, it rides extremely well (significantly better than stock), I still clear a 305/50R20 in the front with only a tiny bit of the front valence trimmed, and the CV angles are level or maybe just slightly negative. It launches in 4WD about as smooth as any truck I've ever been in.

Everything else is 100% factory.

I did add some custom outside-the-frame airbags since I do some towing and/or hauling with a good bit of weight in the bed, and I don't like the headlights pointing way up with a load. With the 3 inches of drop in the rear, the standard under-the-frame bag kits won't fit at all, and if you make one fit with single-bellow bags instead of the double-bellows, it will ride absolutely horrid. Been there, done that, don't recommend.

I'm gonna try and get some pictures this weekend actually.

That was excellent information thank you


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fl0w3n

Active member
Jan 8, 2015
508
25
28
Also, to add, I went with that direction on my truck because I bought it with a lift kit already on it and didn't realize what it took to go back to stock.

I would have had a couple thousand in a shop "fabricating" stock parts and pieces back together just to get the truck stock. Unfortunately the kit I bought it with was pretty garbage and hacked off a ton of stuff to make the drop box fit.

Have you looked closely at what it would take to remove your lift kit and go back to stock/lowering?
 

MackeyLB7

New member
Jul 10, 2020
29
1
3
Also, to add, I went with that direction on my truck because I bought it with a lift kit already on it and didn't realize what it took to go back to stock.

I would have had a couple thousand in a shop "fabricating" stock parts and pieces back together just to get the truck stock. Unfortunately the kit I bought it with was pretty garbage and hacked off a ton of stuff to make the drop box fit.

Have you looked closely at what it would take to remove your lift kit and go back to stock/lowering?

Yeah I done the lift myself and I kept all of my stock parts when I done it it was only a 3.5 lift so nothing crazy had to be done to lift it


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MackeyLB7

New member
Jul 10, 2020
29
1
3
Also, to add, I went with that direction on my truck because I bought it with a lift kit already on it and didn't realize what it took to go back to stock.

I would have had a couple thousand in a shop "fabricating" stock parts and pieces back together just to get the truck stock. Unfortunately the kit I bought it with was pretty garbage and hacked off a ton of stuff to make the drop box fit.

Have you looked closely at what it would take to remove your lift kit and go back to stock/lowering?

If you would send me a pic of your truck now just so I can see the ride hight of it I don’t want to slam mine just want better ride quality and better control when launching it


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MackeyLB7

New member
Jul 10, 2020
29
1
3
That is on 35's

I’m just trying to clear 33x12.50s so I’ll for sure be good and I like those cv angles when u launch it it’s probably straight or slightly higher than the wheel then


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zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
My truck will be dropped to flat cv angles and 3” shackles hopefully at the end of the week. Running 33x12.50s on 20x9s and +13 or +18 offset. I’ll try to post pics when it’s done. Don’t do the 3/5 kit I think you’ll be too low.
 

JoshH

Daggum farm truck
Staff member
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 14, 2007
13,582
599
113
Texas!!!
You aren't going to clear a 33x12.50 with a 3/5 drop without some cutting up front. The amount you have to cut will depend on your wheels.
 

MackeyLB7

New member
Jul 10, 2020
29
1
3
My truck will be dropped to flat cv angles and 3” shackles hopefully at the end of the week. Running 33x12.50s on 20x9s and +13 or +18 offset. I’ll try to post pics when it’s done. Don’t do the 3/5 kit I think you’ll be too low.

Yeah I’m looking at 2/4 now


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