Smoke Control

Dozerboy

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Jun 23, 2009
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What other tables have y’all had luck with to really dial in smoke out put? Since adding a stroker pump it seem like my small puff has gotten bigger then I want. I’m trying to get my truck to only haze. I have messed with the Lambda tables to no end and can’t seem to get rid of the puff of smoke when I stab the throttle. Now if I set the whole table above 1.4 then it doesn’t smoke but it’s a dog due to the lack of fuel. I tried reducing Pedal-TQ B1115 some. I think TQ Base B1102 would really let me fine tune fuel, but IIRC caused me shifting problems when I mess around alot with it before. Sugestions?


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IOWA LLY

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The answer to your question lies completely in the lambda table. Unfortunately it’s not as easy to use as it was in the older trucks.


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Dozerboy

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Thanks Iowa I will revisit that table. I should probably update my EFI since it’s been a couple years. My trucks an LBZ does the table function/layout correct or is it one of those EFI live didn’t get quite right? If so how screwed up is it?


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monster50iii

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Dec 5, 2014
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I like to use a bit richer mixture for 0-3psi, and then lean it out alot from there. I also shoot for a small haze. Any less and spool up suffers a bit. I can notice .01 for adjustments. Takes alot of time finding the sweet spot with this table for sure
 

Dozerboy

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I have the smoke under control other than the initial puff when I stab the throttle. There just seems to not be any fine tuning the puff without getting lots of lag. I'll just have to mess with it somemore. 1.3 my truck let's out a good puff 1.4 and it's a dog. It was fine Until the stroker, and I bet 100 overs are going to drive me nuts when I do them.

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2004LB7

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Dec 15, 2010
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Your not setting the whole table to 1.3 or 1.4 are you? Obviously different areas of the table will require different numbers. The way you described it is sounds like you are setting every cell to the same number

Took me about a week to get mine adjusted and I am sure it is not as good as it can be. I had to adjust small sections of the table at a time and watch output. Tried logging and researching how much and where to make the changes but discovered that it is unique to each person's tune and is best done by making small adjustments and watching what it does to the exhaust. Unless I had an O2 sensor nothing in the logs was helpful

Also, mines an LMM so it would be backwards to yours
 

monster50iii

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Dec 5, 2014
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Yes^^^

I use 1.135 for ex in my extreme low boost areas. Gives a small haze for spoolup. As soon as I begin picking up boost it ramps up to as high as 1.4. It doesnt suprise me 1.3 you get a puff, and 1.4 its a dog. Try 1.31, then 1.32 etc... find the fine line of good spoolup vs smoke. You could even lower rail pressure a bit as well as pulse width in those lower rpm spooling areas, but then you limit your "potential" power when you are spooled in those areas. However, times might be slim that that would happen.


My LAMBDA table ramping up to 1.4 doesnt seem to affect my smaller tunes much, but it really helps control my big tunes smoke output. Just an fyi.. I use to use the same number across the board, but found better results not doing so. But it takes way more time dialing in.

What are you max vane %'s set at in the areas you get your "puff"? You're running Mark's stage 2 3794 right?
 

Dozerboy

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Your not setting the whole table to 1.3 or 1.4 are you? Obviously different areas of the table will require different numbers. The way you described it is sounds like you are setting every cell to the same number

I've tried it both ways. When I had lots of Transitions and try to really dial in smoke control at precise RPMs and fuel quantities. It never seemed to work very well unless I went really extreme. Almost like it didn't like quick changes and it would just overshoot my numbers. Right now with more consonant numbers actually get this quickest full up for the amount of smoke output. I can also only use a small portion of the table. Anything lower then 1.00 on the Air Per Cyl scale does nothing. 95% of the time my truck is smoke free. It's only off the line and when I drop a few gears going WOT while crusing which makes no sense since I have 1.35 across the board from 1400rpms and up.

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2004LB7

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Reading, then more reading. When you are done reading all of the threads find another site and read more.

When your head is about to explode. Step back and take a breather. Download the tune off of your truck and look through the table and start to familiarize yourself with the tools

Then go back and read everything all over again

Then make small changes a little at a time and load it up and see how it responds. Repeat as desired. The 20-20 tune toteral is also a good place to get started

Then go back and read some more. You can never read and learn enough, so sit back and dedicate a lot of time to reading as many threads as possible
 

torqued2dmax

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Mar 26, 2017
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So I guess thats why some of you guys are talking about Beer breaks so often , now I understand ! LOL ! Sometimes in life there are no shortcuts worth taking and I guess this is one of those times , thanks for the response !
 

monster50iii

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Dec 5, 2014
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I can get my smoke off the line handled pretty decent, but I too struggle with the 6th to 5th smoke a bit, and the 6th to 4th is even tougher. However its a day to day process :)
 

Dozerboy

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After 100overs I had to address this table the right way. I felt like I was beating my head into a wall. Especially since it’s not like you can just switch the DSP to compare changes.
The best way I found to see what areas need work was to use a 5th gear dyno trans tune, log, and make changes/testing. That way I could really figure out where I needed more or less fuel. I could lug the engine down to 1400rpms and really see what parts of this table where used and when.