Are just over 26" eye to eye rear on a 2500HD.
Fronts are 15.2" eye to shoulder. Eye's are 5/8".
(scratch pad)
Fronts are 15.2" eye to shoulder. Eye's are 5/8".
(scratch pad)
If you put airbags in the back (AirLift #57275) you will want to reduce the shock length 2" to avoid "topping out" the airbags. I am putting in DJM2400's (www.djmsuspension.com) which will be 2" shorter.
If you want to limit front end "extension" DJM has a 13.5" shock, but it appears to be a bit flimsy for our trucks. PN is DJM1315.
If you want to limit front end "extension" DJM has a 13.5" shock, but it appears to be a bit flimsy for our trucks. PN is DJM1315.
good call on the airbags. They really stretch when put on a lift.
FWIW, a clarification, the lengths you show are extended lengths.
Been trying to find a front shock with more dampening.
For the rear, thinking about BE5-A463-H5 bilstein 255/70 dampened, 24.4" extended.
FWIW, a clarification, the lengths you show are extended lengths.
Been trying to find a front shock with more dampening.
For the rear, thinking about BE5-A463-H5 bilstein 255/70 dampened, 24.4" extended.
Well shocks control the suspension travel, depending on the compression or rebound rate you can slow the travel down to move slower or speed it up
OH and shocks do not add lift/height
Done!
OH and shocks do not add lift/height
Done!
I have had good luck with the bilstiens on leveled trucks. The shocks are 2" longer but have a ford part# on them??? I just ordered the new rancho ajustable shocks I think the 1100's but not sure. The oilfield roads around here put the best parts to the test. The companies around here trade the trucks in after 70k because thier junk after that. 150 to 200 miles a day on dirt roads. Beware of buying trucks from around here because they have been driven hard.
For sled-pulling, you want to reduce front suspension extension. When the Dmax hyper-extends the front, the tires toe-in and reduce traction, not to mention it's hard on the front components when the axle geometry is highly angled.
Short shocks are an easy way to limit travel, but this is not for street purposes.
Short shocks are an easy way to limit travel, but this is not for street purposes.
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Hey Pat,
What about adding some limit straps so you can drive on the street and then at the track strap her down. Then you don't damage the shack and get best of both worlds.
What about adding some limit straps so you can drive on the street and then at the track strap her down. Then you don't damage the shack and get best of both worlds.
That's probably a better idea. The "lowering" shocks are perhaps nothing but shocks off a minitruck or small car. Not enough dampening. If the shocks had adjustable dampening, I'd crank them up to the max.
Any 13"-14" adjustable dampening shocks?
Well I was thinking if you use a adjustable clevis strap mount you could adjust the front limit point and get more detailed at the track with easy adjustments.
Like this:
And just do a welded tab on the other side. Then all you need to do is spin the jam nut down to change the limit point.
Good idea ...:dontknow:
Been there done that too but maybe someone else may have better luck then we did. Please video tape you pulls, ours were exciting while the "limiting" stuff was usedWell I was thinking if you use a adjustable clevis strap mount you could adjust the front limit point and get more detailed at the track with easy adjustments.
Like this:
And just do a welded tab on the other side. Then all you need to do is spin the jam nut down to change the limit point.
Good idea ...:dontknow:
So then what are you doing to limit your travel, and is yours a trailer truck or street truck.
If I sound dumb asking that's because I am not up to speed on the drag and sled trucks yet. But if it's suspension I'm a fast learner.
Truck Puller. No limiting devices anymore. We found if we make the suspension help itself it works. As the front raises the tires toe in, we solved for toe in by a little toe out to start. We also hang weight. Good front end pieces & a ton of testing. Once the tires start to toe in they actually "pull" them selves in once they get to a certain point. Kinda like a bicyle along as you are going straight you can let go of the wheel but let the wheel turn a little too far & it just slams hard in that direction, now picture it with 2 turning at each other. It gets ugly. Hope this makes sense
Just thinking out loud here. On the roundy round cars, when we have a dry slick track, we adjust rebound dampening to minimal settings, an "easy up" position, to maximize weight transfer to the rear tires. With this same logic, if we had adjustable rebound to stiffen, or "tie down" the front end, but still maintain stock travel, that should help with traction on launches as well as maintaining geometry. I'm thinking more in terms of drag racing, but might apply to pulling also, I don't know?
What is the compressed length of the stockers, front and rear, or the travel?
Nick, anybody building something like this in a single or double adjustable?:angel:
What is the compressed length of the stockers, front and rear, or the travel?
Nick, anybody building something like this in a single or double adjustable?:angel:
a truck is 4x4 unlike your roundy round car... pull wieght of the said wheels and almost instant wheel hop
This is all great info ....
I would like to be apart in playing with a drag or sled truck around in my area if anyone needs help
I think once I brake down what the truck is meant for in use I could come up with something that might help:dontknow: But willing to try
I would like to be apart in playing with a drag or sled truck around in my area if anyone needs help
I think once I brake down what the truck is meant for in use I could come up with something that might help:dontknow: But willing to try