Hey guys, going to be installing my new PPE up-pipes and manifolds this coming week. First off, my direct question is what process is everyone using to make sure you don't snap bolts off when removing the manifolds and up pipes? I'm sure penetrating oil but do you let it soak for a few days before? will I have to heat them (My truck has 40k original miles and all the bolt heads look brand new. However, I know this probably doesn't matter.) My second question is I will be installing these at the same time I install a 63mm turbo, Wherli EGR delete tube with Y-bridge, and Mishimoto intercooler with piping. Should I take everything off from the front of the motor back to make it easier to get to bolts? First time tearing it apart and wanted to have a game plan! TIA :thumb:
PPE Up-pipe and exhaust manifold install
- Thread starter ryanck06
- Start date
I soaked it a couple days before and let it warmup a couple times in between soaking. Then let it warm up the morning before and hit it and only snapped a bolt once on the pass side exhaust manifold. But it came out with an extractor
2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Yellow Top Optimas, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.
2004 Silverado Cali lb7, Airdog ll 165, fresh sticks at 325k, Rick Fletes Dsp 5 on v2, 33x12.5 nitto at on 20 inch American Racing 20x10 wheels, Stage 5 Built Transmission by Mike Cole with triple disc billet low stall converter, 4 inch Injen cold air intake, Profab Intake Horn, Batmo Wheel, PPE Race Valve, Full EGR Removed w/ fed belt, 3.5 inch MBRP Downpipe, Full five inch MBRP Exhaust axle dump, lbz cp3 pump, Dual Yellow Top Optimas, High Output Alternator, Cognito Pittman and idler w/ support kit, Cognito Upper Contol arms, Drilled and Slotted Rotors on all four Corners, FED Y Bridge, Shantz Custom Fab Traction Bars.
Did a lot of similar work myself about a month ago. The exhaust manifolds were pretty easy. If you're replacing all the bolts, you'll need a way to remove the studs which can be a challenge. The steering shaft has to come out as well. PPE has a pretty good set of instructions for the exhaust manifolds. Did most of my work through the passenger side wheel well and it was pretty easy. Make sure to put in the drivers side up pipe before the exhaust manifold. Goes a lot easier that way. Put anti seize on the bolts to do yourself a favor later. Maybe change the glow plugs if they've been there for a while. I had a heck of a time installing my y bridge, although mine was a DHD. Probably used about 4 different ways (ratchet, wrench, some bit adapter thing) to tighten those fasteners. I didn't have to take anything off the front of the engine to get anything done. You might pull the four bolts holding the ac compressor and move it to the side to make some room. Other things, wear gloves. I got a nice scar courtesy of my intercooler. And update your signature block so we know what you're working with and any other mods you have.
Use seafoam, the carb cleaning stuff, it is the best penetrant, better than liquid wrench and pb blaster, I've used it on ball joints, came back 10 min later, 5 whacks with a hammer and ball joints fell out. They went terribly rusty but they came out like butter with 180k miles on em. :woott: