LLY - Cracked piston

NevadaLLY

Adam B
Feb 24, 2019
310
31
28
Reno, NV
All things seem to happen for a reason. The upper oil pan has a crack I didn’t see on assembly. Only when I was cleaning the gasket material did I notice. Check it out.. 5A0E7B17-6C6B-4AA2-8503-E9D28EAA361A.jpeg
 

NevadaLLY

Adam B
Feb 24, 2019
310
31
28
Reno, NV
Anyone have thoughts on these injector line tips? Think I should replace?? One had a bit of rust on the end near where it attached to the old injector. I used a scotch brite pad to lightly clean some rust away. Not perfect but seating surface looks ok. There’s evidence of where the injectors have been seated. I’m wondering if that’s normal or I should replace. Internal to the line looks ok. A0B8F8D0-BB69-49DB-BF50-39DC4F76C567.jpeg
62C0A404-A0AC-4E5D-879B-9DA2878B1944.jpeg
5138AF66-53BD-4257-9AC0-D133117C7EBD.jpeg
 

2004LB7

Well-known member
Dec 15, 2010
4,054
440
83
Norcal
Yeah, as james said. Looks fine. Mine looked worse and had no issues sealing. You could always pit a small amount of red locktite on the sealing surface, but make sure you wipe the surface to leave only a thin film so it doesn't get in the injectors. Did that too when I had a little pitting on the surface. No leakage with that either
 

NevadaLLY

Adam B
Feb 24, 2019
310
31
28
Reno, NV
It’s getting there... I don’t trust my main seal install, so broke down and bought the merchant tool which will be here Tuesday. Honestly last thing I want is to put it in and have a leak... LOL. Also, my gasket kit was missing the turbo copper compression banjo as well as FICM banjo’s. Seem like they should have been in the kit. Also, my turbo kit was missing the turbo coolant and oil Banjo copper washers but replaced with the rubberized washer. Has anyone used those? 93DAF4B3-15E6-45CD-A1BF-EFBEE11007BE.jpeg
0E2B63DC-E92A-428A-A998-745806317B17.jpeg
44A0419B-CC84-4062-B129-50015AA34E38.jpeg
 
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NevadaLLY

Adam B
Feb 24, 2019
310
31
28
Reno, NV
Does anyone know if there's supposed to be a rubber O-ring on the oil pressure sending unit? The new ones look like they have one, but I can't recall if I pulled one off with it or not. The machine shop removed it and it didn't come back to me with one...
 

Josh154

Well-known member
Sep 28, 2015
1,216
60
48
Sioux Falls SD
Dans doesn’t do a copper banjo. It’s the washers with rubber on inside, I am running them on mine with no issues! Make sure you use the remote oil feed hose. I’m using front drivers for valley, and front passenger for compound.
 

NevadaLLY

Adam B
Feb 24, 2019
310
31
28
Reno, NV
Dans doesn’t do a copper banjo. It’s the washers with rubber on inside, I am running them on mine with no issues! Make sure you use the remote oil feed hose. I’m using front drivers for valley, and front passenger for compound.
I re-used OEM - didn't have instructions but I figured it was for that. I didn't realize I could hook up to the front driver?? How did you run the hose? It didn't look long enough to me. Did you use the rubber washers for both coolant connections?
 

NevadaLLY

Adam B
Feb 24, 2019
310
31
28
Reno, NV
Does anyone know if there's supposed to be a rubber O-ring on the oil pressure sending unit? The new ones look like they have one, but I can't recall if I pulled one off with it or not. The machine shop removed it and it didn't come back to me with one...
Bump
 

Josh154

Well-known member
Sep 28, 2015
1,216
60
48
Sioux Falls SD
I re-used OEM - didn't have instructions but I figured it was for that. I didn't realize I could hook up to the front driver?? How did you run the hose? It didn't look long enough to me. Did you use the rubber washers for both coolant connections?

yes used them on both coolant and oil. You can kinda see how it’s ran in this pic
 

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DAVe3283

Heavy & Slow
Sep 3, 2009
3,491
73
48
Boise, ID, USA
Does anyone know if there's supposed to be a rubber O-ring on the oil pressure sending unit? The new ones look like they have one, but I can't recall if I pulled one off with it or not. The machine shop removed it and it didn't come back to me with one...
Not sure on the LLY, but on my LB7 I'm pretty sure it was a tapered thread, so just throw some thread sealant on and done.

You might measure the sensor / block to determine if it is a tapered thread or not. If it is a straight cut thread, then there probably should be an o-ring.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
19,161
1,639
113
Phoenix Az
There is an o-ring on the pressure sensor. it should drop into the recess that the oil galley has above the threads to seal up. the oil galley plugs dont have an o-ring but they use a sealant and a shouldered bolt instead.
 

NevadaLLY

Adam B
Feb 24, 2019
310
31
28
Reno, NV
There is an o-ring on the pressure sensor. it should drop into the recess that the oil galley has above the threads to seal up. the oil galley plugs dont have an o-ring but they use a sealant and a shouldered bolt instead.
There is a torque spec for the oil pressure sending unit and it seems high for use with an O-ring, hence why my I'm scratching my head.. There's a small non-threaded area on the pressure sending unit which looks fit for an O-ring and looking at the mating surfaces, it looks like something was there slightly smaller than the OD of the unit and the block face. It's on there snug with the O-Ring, but I didn't take it all the way to 36lb-ft. That torque setting makes me think there shouldn't be an O-ring.
 

NevadaLLY

Adam B
Feb 24, 2019
310
31
28
Reno, NV
Not sure on the LLY, but on my LB7 I'm pretty sure it was a tapered thread, so just throw some thread sealant on and done.

You might measure the sensor / block to determine if it is a tapered thread or not. If it is a straight cut thread, then there probably should be an o-ring.
Doesn't look like NPT. Looks straight.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
19,161
1,639
113
Phoenix Az
There is a torque spec for the oil pressure sending unit and it seems high for use with an O-ring, hence why my I'm scratching my head.. There's a small non-threaded area on the pressure sending unit which looks fit for an O-ring and looking at the mating surfaces, it looks like something was there slightly smaller than the OD of the unit and the block face. It's on there snug with the O-Ring, but I didn't take it all the way to 36lb-ft. That torque setting makes me think there shouldn't be an O-ring.

because its not the main sealing surface, it recesses into the block as a secondary seal.