LB7 Build

DylOrr

Member
May 26, 2010
101
0
16
Kinderhook, IL
I figured I'd make a post about a truck we are building for a buddy of mine. He is on here, his name is Matt (Average_Ass_Lb7). It's gonna be a little long winded but hopefully we can get some good information in here as going into this whole thing I could never find much information on something of this caliber, as they aren't usually built by small shops like us. We take pride in trying to do as much of a build as we can and save the pocketbooks a little :roflmao:.

We started last year as he wanted to do the UCC qualifier so we built a truck that performed decent for its first outing being at UCC. It made 1460/2200, but unfortunately we couldn't get the thing to shift and fought that issue all year. I think the fastest pass over there was 6.90s but at 115 which we were happy with. And going into the pull it was strictly novice driving as he isn't a puller, and thats fine, but he gave her the onion too early and it just blew the tires off. It went all year on a 4" lift kit and at about 7000lbs. He finally ran 6.50@110 at SDX.

The main purpose of this build is he wants to run around and do some ODSS 5.90 racing but even though he placed toward the bottom at UCC, they had a couple drop outs and they invited him to the main event this year and the truck is getting a complete revamp. Major weight reduction and suspension changes are the main things I'm going to make some posts about. I think about 90% of what we have to do is fabrication as its getting a lot of fiberglass and that makes a lot of work up front.

Anyways, a couple weeks ago we got started on it. He brought it to us after pulling the driveline and gutting most of the interior and we went to work. We got the hoop and down bars mocked up and started cutting. It is going to get a sheet metal floor/ back wall and lexan glass in all the windows on the cab. It's getting a 25.6 cage (optimistic eh) and a 4 link rear, which is most of where this is going to start. And I'll take some pics as we go of everything else going on if i can remember. We have a pretty tight timeline (if we can make it), and running through this and customers trucks out of a 40x50 shop is going to make for some fast paced work.

Heres some pics of the 25.6 which is an absolute nightmare to build. I'm 6'8 and 310# and definitely not a contortionist. I have no idea how people do these things in the truck, I don't think I could. The spec is aimed more toward dodges i think which have more room between the frame and the rocker panels so we are going to have to cram some bars in some tight spaces. It is built with Docol R8 which is 1.625 .083 wall and a super clean metal. Any questions, feel free to ask; any advice, feel free to share. Thanks for the help over the years guys :thumb:

Don't mind the messy shop :D

Sorry all the pictures are sideways, It's the way they transferred from my phone.
 

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Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,127
4,873
113
Phoenix Az
i was definitely going to suggest moving the A and B pillar mounting points at the outriggers to on top of them and not off the side but looks like you already caught that and moved them. Certifications techs dont like that.

building cages can be a pain but you got it easy outside the cab right now. you have to be a real contortionist inside the cab :roflmao:. you learn to use the TIG pedal between your knees, thigh and cab, butt, what ever it takes :roflmao:
 

DylOrr

Member
May 26, 2010
101
0
16
Kinderhook, IL
i was definitely going to suggest moving the A and B pillar mounting points at the outriggers to on top of them and not off the side but looks like you already caught that and moved them. Certifications techs dont like that.

building cages can be a pain but you got it easy outside the cab right now. you have to be a real contortionist inside the cab :roflmao:. you learn to use the TIG pedal between your knees, thigh and cab, butt, what ever it takes :roflmao:

Yep tech guy cut that idea short, even though I have seen some like that. Luckily it was pretty easy. I use a finger amp control so it makes it a little easier as well. It’s not a scratch start though I do see a lot of people like that kind of welder for tight work. Like I said I’m so big I’m going to say there’s no way I ever could have did this inside the truck. Also this spec says it has to be welded all the way around.
 

DylOrr

Member
May 26, 2010
101
0
16
Kinderhook, IL
Want to do mine next? Build is looking good and I'm glad to see another Duramax join the fight at UCC!

I think this is gonna be the only cage I do :roflmao: I believe that’s part of the reason they asked him. Most of them are cummins and I think they want some more v8 trucks.
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,127
4,873
113
Phoenix Az
Yep tech guy cut that idea short, even though I have seen some like that. Luckily it was pretty easy. I use a finger amp control so it makes it a little easier as well. It’s not a scratch start though I do see a lot of people like that kind of welder for tight work. Like I said I’m so big I’m going to say there’s no way I ever could have did this inside the truck. Also this spec says it has to be welded all the way around.

i have found that each tech has their own opinion about what is "ok" and what is not. you sure as hell cant just build it by the book, tried that the first time and about had to rip the whole cage out. i agree on how the cage should be held to the outrigger though. gives more support to the A and B pillar that way instead of the weld doing all the support and possibly ripping the tube.

yeah all SFI stuff has to be welded all the way around but i do the same even on just normal roll cage stuff (drag racing or desert play/race). You just have to think ahead a bit and plan to drop the cage through the floor to weld the tops up. pulling all the windows is a big plus too. My tech out here wont let partial welded cages pass no matter what, even with gussets. i guess his boss from cali is a real big stickler about it.
 

Bdsankey

Vendor
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 1, 2018
3,906
1,074
113
Neenah, Wisconsin
I think this is gonna be the only cage I do :roflmao: I believe that’s part of the reason they asked him. Most of them are cummins and I think they want some more v8 trucks.

That is reason #1 I'm looking for a caged regular cab roller during the winter of 2020-2021. I for one can't weld well enough to trust my life to it and I don't think a tech will like a nice cage inside of a rusty body but who knows, I'd hope it would pass but I bet getting the cage put in would be a nightmare.
 

DylOrr

Member
May 26, 2010
101
0
16
Kinderhook, IL
That is reason #1 I'm looking for a caged regular cab roller during the winter of 2020-2021. I for one can't weld well enough to trust my life to it and I don't think a tech will like a nice cage inside of a rusty body but who knows, I'd hope it would pass but I bet getting the cage put in would be a nightmare.

I would think a 10 point would be pretty easy to do. Going through the dash would be a little difficult but nothing too hard. I know in just the x bars that go through the back of the main hoop I have about 10 hours. I’m probably 40-45 hours into this thing. I’m hoping to get a little more done toward the end of the week.
 

Bdsankey

Vendor
Vendor/Sponsor
Feb 1, 2018
3,906
1,074
113
Neenah, Wisconsin
I would think a 10 point would be pretty easy to do. Going through the dash would be a little difficult but nothing too hard. I know in just the x bars that go through the back of the main hoop I have about 10 hours. I’m probably 40-45 hours into this thing. I’m hoping to get a little more done toward the end of the week.

I could care less about what happens behind the front seats (I don't care to keep rear seat usage) but I definitely want removable door bars so I can still drive the darn thing. I'll message you directly to not clutter up your thread further.


Keep up the killer work, that truck has an INSANE amount of good parts in it that are going to make it one hell of a contender.
 

Ne-max

I like turtles
Nov 15, 2011
3,361
64
48
Lincoln, Ne
I would think a 10 point would be pretty easy to do. Going through the dash would be a little difficult but nothing too hard. I know in just the x bars that go through the back of the main hoop I have about 10 hours. I’m probably 40-45 hours into this thing. I’m hoping to get a little more done toward the end of the week.

Race trucks dont have dashes.
 

DylOrr

Member
May 26, 2010
101
0
16
Kinderhook, IL
i have found that each tech has their own opinion about what is "ok" and what is not. you sure as hell cant just build it by the book, tried that the first time and about had to rip the whole cage out. i agree on how the cage should be held to the outrigger though. gives more support to the A and B pillar that way instead of the weld doing all the support and possibly ripping the tube.

yeah all SFI stuff has to be welded all the way around but i do the same even on just normal roll cage stuff (drag racing or desert play/race). You just have to think ahead a bit and plan to drop the cage through the floor to weld the tops up. pulling all the windows is a big plus too. My tech out here wont let partial welded cages pass no matter what, even with gussets. i guess his boss from cali is a real big stickler about it.

I would avoid non complete welds as well if possible. I was originally going to drop this through the floor but doing the x in between the frame rails over the transmission is nearly impossible with a factory floor board unless you have a small transmission :D, and being able to get good clean welds with the cab off is worth it.
 

DylOrr

Member
May 26, 2010
101
0
16
Kinderhook, IL
I finished up the roof over the weekend. I’m not a fan of how it turned out but rules are rules. The only way to avoid this would be to push the windshield bar farther forward, pull the funny car back, or take the one to the back corner of the main hoop and run the above helmet bars “through” the x bar.
 

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