Different Battery Relocation

[SgtKilroy]

Well, I got back from Afghanistan and decided it was time for a new look for the truck, so I added a 6" zone lift. While I was at it I got this idea that the batteries would fit behind the bumper. I fiddled around with it for a bit and this is what I came up with. I reused the drivers side negative for the ground, and for the positive cable I ran the original positive to the fuse block with a new positive wire from the batteries up to the bolt the alternator connects to (have no idea what the technical term for that is). I just wanted to do something different.

And yes, I realize that in a front end collision the batteries would probably be crushed. At that point I don't believe I want the engine running anyhow. They're several inches back from the bumper itself so in a fender bender they wouldn't be touched.:thumb:

 

[glock36]

I think you'll find your batteries will discharge rather quickly once bad weather hits. In their OEM position they are sheltered from getting wet and with road spray from deicing chemicals and just getting wet I think you will find the batteries will discharge on their own. I may be wrong but I don't think so. Good luck

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[RobsDmax]

not a bad idea but they should be completely enclosed like they were originally

 

[SgtKilroy]

Ok this may be a dumb question, but why would this be any different than the other battery relocations as far as the battery being exposed to weather? Under the cab on the frame like for twin turbos, for instance?

 

[RobsDmax]

under the frame would at least only get tire spray imo, here it is getting the bulk of everything

 

[rms2012]

And yes, I realize that in a front end collision the batteries would probably be crushed.

And . . . you'll spill your Sam Adams.

Nice lookin' bracket. Exposed or upside down, you can't hurt those Optimas.

 

[leehype]

They need to have a shelter of some kind. Best bet it to consider even optamas as a normal battery. That is not a bad location, but they will suffer from temperature extremes there. The hot cold swings that kills batteries. Treat them as you would the stock battery.

The benefit to that location is if you were to mount a quick disconnect. Say for a removable winch, or a fast jumper connection or any other device you might find a use for. If you put them to use in that location, cool. But just for the sake of doing it might cost you in battery life.

For what it is worth, I have had underhood batteries last 10+ years. Batteries that are mounted inside a tub, basically in the shade but not really out of the weather have lasted only 6 years max, but I average 4-5. Batteries I have mounted outside last 3 years max. This isn't a rule of thumb, just my personal experience, you could very well have better luck.

 

[chevyburnout1]

Would you be able to squeeze in a battery box for a boat in there? At least its some protection, but it looks tight in there.

 

[z79outlaw]

pretty cool idea, I think maybe I would tip them 90* so the terminals are facing the engine, hopefully that would be enough room to be able to disconnect the batteries without having to disassemble everything, and then make a way for the batteries to drop out of the bottom to make them easier to remove. I would only worry about corrosion on the battery cables cant be much worse than up under the cab but some di-electric grease and living in Kali should help.

 

[McRat]

Those are AGM right? If so, they are safer in a collision.

You can actually run off one battery if you never see freezing conditions.

 

[DIESELMAFIAPER.LB7]

They make covers that completely cover them and insulat them! I like hiw you did that looks good man

 

[SgtKilroy]

under the frame would at least only get tire spray imo, here it is getting the bulk of everything

I'd think that as long as I don't follow too close I'll be ok. I drive like an old fart on the street anyhow.

And yes, I realize that in a front end collision the batteries would probably be crushed.

And . . . you'll spill your Sam Adams.

Well, as you know alcohol abuse is a serious problem so I'll do my best to keep it safe. :thumb:

Nice lookin' bracket. Exposed or upside down, you can't hurt those Optimas.

Thank you!

They need to have a shelter of some kind. Best bet it to consider even optamas as a normal battery. That is not a bad location, but they will suffer from temperature extremes there. The hot cold swings that kills batteries. Treat them as you would the stock battery.

The benefit to that location is if you were to mount a quick disconnect. Say for a removable winch, or a fast jumper connection or any other device you might find a use for. If you put them to use in that location, cool. But just for the sake of doing it might cost you in battery life.

For what it is worth, I have had underhood batteries last 10+ years. Batteries that are mounted inside a tub, basically in the shade but not really out of the weather have lasted only 6 years max, but I average 4-5. Batteries I have mounted outside last 3 years max. This isn't a rule of thumb, just my personal experience, you could very well have better luck.

I appreciate the input. I'm gonna look around to see about at least keeping the terminals and wires covered. As it is I've never had a battery last more than 3 years regardless. I've had batteries in several locations in different trucks I've owned and nothing seems to make a difference.

Would you be able to squeeze in a battery box for a boat in there? At least its some protection, but it looks tight in there.

I've honestly never seen one and have no idea. Sounds like a good option for someone though!

pretty cool idea, I think maybe I would tip them 90* so the terminals are facing the engine, hopefully that would be enough room to be able to disconnect the batteries without having to disassemble everything, and then make a way for the batteries to drop out of the bottom to make them easier to remove. I would only worry about corrosion on the battery cables cant be much worse than up under the cab but some di-electric grease and living in Kali should help.

I thought about that too, but I didn't like the minimal space in between the bumper and the battery in the event of a minor fender bender since the battery is taller than it is wide. I did heat shrink the lugs on the cables, but other than that I didn't use any dielectric grease or anything. I have to take it back out to paint it, so I'll add some then. Good advice. Thanks!

Those are AGM right? If so, they are safer in a collision.
You can actually run off one battery if you never see freezing conditions.

They are in fact AGM batteries. I actually ran one battery in the driver's side factory location for about a year and didn't like it. If I didn't drive it every day it would be hard to start and didn't start on a couple occasions when my wife needed it while I was in Afghanistan the past several months. I didn't really like the possibility of leaving her stranded if I didn't have to.

They make covers that completely cover them and insulat them! I like hiw you did that looks good man

Thanks! Any idea where I could find these covers?

 

[jlawles2]

Since you are in SoCal, extreme temps are probably not going to kill the batteries. Battery boxes from jegs, summit, or even the local sporting goods store might fit around the batteries.

 

[SgtKilroy]

I think he was talking about from the radiator heating it up but I agree. Extreme cold does seem a bit unlikely. haha I don't think those type of battery boxes would fit. I looked at some that they had at Pep Boys yesterday, but there really isn't any more room in the tray. I tried to get them in there snugly and almost over did it. They're in there pretty tightly. I think any kind of covering will have to go over the tray too. Maybe I can just enclose the tray with some sheet metal, but that seems a bit extreme. The solution might be as simple as wrapping a small piece of tarp wrapped around it, but that's a bit ghetto. haha

 

[Chevy1925]

Well i can tell ya i ran a red top optima in my old prerunner in the bed wide open to the elements and to my rear tires for two years in flagstaff (snow amd 0* weather all winter) and ran the same one in phoenix for three years in direct 110* summer heat without issue. Truck never sat under a cover or in a garage while i had it. Battery never skipped a beat.

 

[SgtKilroy]

Definitely good news!:thumb:

 

[DAVe3283]

That tray looks great. Though I agree with what others are saying, you might want to look for some sort of a tray or splash shield to keep road spray off them. Not likely to be a problem in SoCal, but if you go on a road trip to somewhere with salted roads... well, let's just say, salt spray is what they use to simulate a lifetime of product wear in a short time period.

As it is I've never had a battery last more than 3 years regardless. I've had batteries in several locations in different trucks I've owned and nothing seems to make a difference.

Exactly the same thing here. The Optima batteries never did better than the cheap lead-acid, so I went back to the cheap batteries. I honestly think it starts better with the lead-acid batteries anyway, and it definitely handles deep discharging better.

Though I did get got 3 bad sets of Optima's in a row (all replaced under warranty ), so maybe they never worked like they should have? Only reason I stopped the perpetual 6-month Optima swap is I got tired of swapping when the truck suddenly wouldn't start. Gave them so some poor unsuspecting sucker, and went to lead acids again. They have all lasted at least 3 years.

 

[McRat]

I get good life out of the Costco Kirkland batteries. Cheap and powerful, and hold a charge longer than most when sitting.

Next gen will be the LiFePO4's. They have about 10 times the recharge ability that SLA (lead) batteries do. and don't lose their charge over time. Motorcycles are already switching over.

 

[leehype]

Let me just clarify my post a bit, and I think you might like this.

I would add connectors, I have done this to my Jeep for my front and rear winches.

Run a second set of wires to the batteries and then these. Simply take a set of jumper cables and replace the clips on one side with these. Now, if you have a dead battery, or need to give someone a jumpstart, you can do so with ease.

On my Jeep, I ran one of these up front on the front winch, and rather than wiring in a full second for the rear, I basically made an extension cord our of 0 gauge ran through the frame rails to the back. This way, I can connect to the battery in the same manner though the back, and the connectors are not powered at all times.

So say you aggravate someone and they turn your lights on and kill your battery wile you are nose into a parking spot. And that same person parks their car in a manner to prevent you from getting a jump...

Take a close look just under my license plate, you can see the connectors. Rather than having to push my jeep out of that spot, all I did was jump from their.

As for closing in the battery, all I was saying is add something on top and bottom and front. Just something to get the elements off it. Simply adding some flat aluminum to the top, bottom and front is all you should need. I see no reason to enclose the sides or back.

 

[SgtKilroy]

Gotcha. I've actually used those connectors before on our MRAPs and MATVs and I really like the idea. Especially since I want to add a 2" receiver up front for a winch. Any idea where to get some connectors like that?