Cylinder 5 Missfire and Balance Rate 15 Bad Injector??

[04LB7yz]

Today well driving my truck I accelerated to pass someone (didn't totally tromp on it, but moderately accelerated). Right afterwards I started getting a miss and hesitation under load. It is also smoking white really bad at idle and while driving. When checking balance rates all are normal except cylinder 5 being at 15. I replaced the injectors with new 45% overs from Lincoln diesel about 40k miles ago and they have always been supplied by an AD165 along with a Cat filter on the normal filter head with filters changed every 10k. Im assuming the injector is bad but really don't know how to confirm if it is or not. Maybe there is an electrical issue or something else that I should look into? Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[zakkb787]

Look up the ice pick trick

 

[Chevy1925]

Pull the glow plug, unplug the FICM and have someone crank it while you watch to see if fuel spits out the glow plug hole. You can also swap injectors to the cyl next to it and see if the balance rate follows

If you see fuel or the balance rate switches cyl, it’s the injector. If not, something else like wiring or engine. I’d start there and go from there

 

[04LB7yz]

Well I pulled the glow plugs and no fuel spit out, so I am assuming the injectors are good. Did a compression test and these were the results;

1 375
3 325
5 250
7 350

2 350
4 300
6 340
8 350

Checked blow by and it was not huffing or building any pressure.. Im gonna assume I have a couple shortened rods?

 

[Chevy1925]

ooohhh ouch... yeah i would be leaning towards bent rods with those numbers....

 

[Bdsankey]

Well I pulled the glow plugs and no fuel spit out, so I am assuming the injectors are good. Did a compression test and these were the results;

1 375
3 325
5 250
7 350

2 350
4 300
6 340
8 350

Checked blow by and it was not huffing or building any pressure.. Im gonna assume I have a couple shortened rods?

ooohhh ouch... yeah i would be leaning towards bent rods with those numbers....

^ I agree

 

[Burn Down]

I was just about to comment the last truck I saw with +15 had 250psi compression in that hole. Bent the rod so bad it clearanced itself on the crank... Time for a build.

 

[ikeG]

I was just about to comment the last truck I saw with +15 had 250psi compression in that hole. Bent the rod so bad it clearanced itself on the crank... Time for a build.

Look something like this? Lol

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[04LB7yz]

I also did something extremely stupid last night... honestly I dont even want to admit it.. I was trying to take the passenger side valve cover off to inspect valve lash to check that off the list and while removing the injector hold down bolts I bumped the remote start button in my pocket. In my stupid frustration I forgot to unhook the batteries and the damn thing started turning over. Shooting injector #7 into the A/C canister at mach 50 then into the hood which sent it flying across the shop and finally landing about 15 feet from the truck on the concrete. I've never unhooked batteries so fast in my life... Visually the injector looks fine minus one little tab on the connector being broken. It does not look like the tip ever hit anything. What are your guys thought on its well being? Should I send it out somewhere to have it tested?

 

[Chevy1925]

Eh, we all do dumb stuff but atleast you’re alright.

I would definitely send it for testing

 

[04LB7yz]

Which companies actually do in house injector testing? I had thought that there are very few that actually can test them?

Also injector #1 doesnt seem to want to come out, got any ideas on getting it out of the head?

 

[Bdsankey]

Which companies actually do in house injector testing? I had thought that there are very few that actually can test them?

Also injector #1 doesnt seem to want to come out, got any ideas on getting it out of the head?

Are you using the injector removal tool?

 

[04LB7yz]

Are you using the injector removal tool?

No, when I did them before they all came out very easy.

 

[Bdsankey]

No, when I did them before they all came out very easy.

The tool makes life easy.

 

[Burn Down]

The lly-lmm injector removal tool is worthless imop. They either come out by hand or are seized in place with carbon and soot. I broke my removal tool and shit canned it. Best tool for stuck injectors is a slide hammer with a universal socket and a injector nut welded together or a lug nut. I guess the obs trucks lug thread is the same as the injectors but I haven’t verified it.

 

[Bdsankey]

The lly-lmm injector removal tool is worthless imop. They either come out by hand or are seized in place with carbon and soot. I broke my removal tool and shit canned it. Best tool for stuck injectors is a slide hammer with a universal socket and a injector nut welded together or a lug nut. I guess the obs trucks lug thread is the same as the injectors but I haven’t verified it.

I’ve had the opposite reaction. I’ve had nothing but good luck from mine.

 

[Chevy1925]

The lly-lmm injector removal tool is worthless imop. They either come out by hand or are seized in place with carbon and soot. I broke my removal tool and shit canned it. Best tool for stuck injectors is a slide hammer with a universal socket and a injector nut welded together or a lug nut. I guess the obs trucks lug thread is the same as the injectors but I haven’t verified it.

same here. best tool i made was that slide hammer setup.

 

[ikeG]

14x1.5 lug nut threads right on the feed of a lly for sure. Had to make the slide hammer setup on the last one I did.

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[04LB7yz]

Look something like this? Lol

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

So turns out 2 rods were bent.... Cylinder 5 is very obvious while cylinder 4 is a little more difficult to see but does have a slight tweak.

As for replacement rods I am wondering which route to go, I don't plan on turning it up anymore than it is (700hp area). I found a good used set of LBZ rods which sound like they were in a stock truck with 160k on it when removed. Lincoln diesel offers the LML rods for a pretty good price... Does anyone know the actual differences between these two rods?

Also the pistons in my engine look really good, cylinder 5 piston did contact the crank just barely. Should I be concerned about reusing them with new rings?

 

[Bdsankey]

So turns out 2 rods were bent.... Cylinder 5 is very obvious while cylinder 4 is a little more difficult to see but does have a slight tweak.

As for replacement rods I am wondering which route to go, I don't plan on turning it up anymore than it is (700hp area). I found a good used set of LBZ rods which sound like they were in a stock truck with 160k on it when removed. Lincoln diesel offers the LML rods for a pretty good price... Does anyone know the actual differences between these two rods?

Also the pistons in my engine look really good, cylinder 5 piston did contact the crank just barely. Should I be concerned about reusing them with new rings?

IMO if you're going to rebuild it I would highly recommend a SoCal budget rod. While they're more expensive, you definitely get some added reassurance. If the pistons aren't in bad shape (high PTW clearance) then you can likely reuse them unless they are obliterated by the crank.