Info: Casper's Suspension:

[Fingers]

Gas shocks work fine, but they need to be valved stiff. If you look at the specs for even normal Bilstiens for the front, You will see they are set up with just a huge dampening force compared to a lot of other applications. There is a lot of unsprung mass to control in the front and the shocks are at a mechanical dis-advantage because of where they are mounted on the lower A arm.

 

[McRat]

Well, my problem is that I want a 1-2" shorter shock since my truck is lowered, and I cannot find a shorter than stock shock that isn't off of a car or mini-truck.

Not going have a shock made, so I guess I put the stockers back on. I wrote to a few shock mfr's and none will reply so far.

 

[malibu795]

Well, my problem is that I want a 1-2" shorter shock since my truck is lowered, and I cannot find a shorter than stock shock that isn't off of a car or mini-truck.

Not going have a shock made, so I guess I put the stockers back on. I wrote to a few shock mfr's and none will reply so far.

nor-cal nick couldnt find one? for you?

 

[MMLMM]

Pat I posted a idea/question the other day directed more to racing than pulling but...


Would running shorter (limited travel) shocks be about the same as running limiting straps on the front? Im more curious for racing as far as getting rear transfer but afraid to try something (looks like if the situation went south, it would tear alot of stuff up). I'd be interested to see how your front setup preforms with a couple launches on the street if ya get a chance

Also would you only recommend this towards pulling or do you think it could benefit us at the track?


also what about a heavy valved shock mounted up side down...

 

[2500HeavyDuty]

I got an idea...but its top secret

 

[duramaximizer]

If you do use limiting straps, ratchet them extremely tight and then add 2 clicks. Don't use log chain. I have seen that.....and I repeat, do not use log chain. Use atleast 2 inch straps cuz 1 inch straps don't work either. I haven't seen this done with sucess yet. But I am not saying it can't be done.

 

[duramaximizer]

BTW, what are the spec for the factory shock as far as travel etc etc?

 

[SIKDMAX]

If you do use limiting straps, ratchet them extremely tight and then add 2 clicks. Don't use log chain. I have seen that.....and I repeat, do not use log chain. Use atleast 2 inch straps cuz 1 inch straps don't work either. I haven't seen this done with sucess yet. But I am not saying it can't be done.

Thats pretty rigged IMO. The correct way to do it would be something similar to an offroad limiting strap and turnbuckle setup like NorcalNick has posted from Kartek.

 

[MMLMM]

Thats pretty rigged IMO. The correct way to do it would be something similar to an offroad limiting strap and turnbuckle setup like NorcalNick has posted from Kartek.

thats what I was thinking, like a limiting strap I use on my land rover shocks in the rear

 

[Fingers]

You can also add a limiting block where the upper A arm bottoms out on the frame.

Steel block is very harsh, plastic better, rubber better yet, but they get harder and harder to keep in place as you get softer.

 

[Nor-Cal Nick]

Well, my problem is that I want a 1-2" shorter shock since my truck is lowered, and I cannot find a shorter than stock shock that isn't off of a car or mini-truck.

Not going have a shock made, so I guess I put the stockers back on. I wrote to a few shock mfr's and none will reply so far.

I can help.

 

[MAXLLY]

Pat,

Take a run over to the nearest off road warehouse (ORW) they are crawler/jumper/desert/dune freaks for the most part.

They (if you find the right guy who's interested) know exactly how to resolve this issue and the others you may find as we/you try and modulate the IFS for our use. Beware, the first thing they may say is... remove the IFS and get a solid.

Beware your CV's are getting close to level/below level as they swing. Let me know if/when you break one there is a better alternative out of Utah.

Rear end looks great man, congrats.

 

[The Neens]

Pat, have you seen the specs on the Rancho RS99295?...Looks like they have the same ext. lenght, but compressed length is 10.625 compared to 12.750 stock...Would those work?

 

[duramaximizer]

I didn't think he was looking for a shorter compressed length but rather a shorter extended length?

BTW, I didn't do any of the things I said, I am just helping some people out from what I have seen done that didn't work.

I am thinking that a set of penski racing shocks would be cool. Compression and rebound adjustable and available in custom lengths.

 

[RENODMAX]

Ok I really dont know much about suspension at all, but i was thinking as a limiting factor for my application (nowhere near extreme as what pat needs), what if I were to run a dual shock setup with one shock regular and one shock upside down? I figure it could either create a shitload of rebound or dampen it pretty well traveling both ways. I know this might be a very stupid idea but what do you guys think?:hug::baby:

 

[MMLMM]

Ok I really dont know much about suspension at all, but i was thinking as a limiting factor for my application (nowhere near extreme as what pat needs), what if I were to run a dual shock setup with one shock regular and one shock upside down? I figure it could either create a shitload of rebound or dampen it pretty well traveling both ways. I know this might be a very stupid idea but what do you guys think?:hug::baby:

i was mentioning the upside down idea earlyer too. On my dirt car, sometime a simple flip of the right rear shock for a tacky track was all i needed to do sometimes, lol

 

[RENODMAX]

i was mentioning the upside down idea earlyer too. On my dirt car, sometime a simple flip of the right rear shock for a tacky track was all i needed to do sometimes, lol

Yeah i was thinking do a dual setup on both fronts cos they do that alot on dirt track cars. reece does it on the dwarfs and shit and seems to work really well. So if you had both in theory it could want to hold it center...or could bounce like a super ball

 

[Redbone]

Hey guys, the upside down shock thing really doesn't change the compression and rebound characteristics. It only changes the unsprung weight. A lot of racers will flip the shocks so that the shock body is hung on the suspended chassis as opposed to the fixed suspension point the add or subtract sprung weight. The difference in suspension reaction is almost negligible.

Hey Nick, over at DP you had a great write up about the different specs for various Bilsteins. When you listed the dampening forces, they were rated at .52. Is that .52 velocity m/s, or other units?

 

[Nor-Cal Nick]

Yea on a charged shock flipping it doesn't change anything.

This is really simple if you guys take a step back and re think what you need to achieve,

1. Proper shock control so your truck is not out of control at high speeds.

2. You need to limit travel so you do not over extend the control arm angle resulting in CV angles working at a harsh angle and braking under extreme torq.


To properly achieve this I myself would use a shock that will offer great valving and not stress on it also being the tool for limiting your travel because you will end up damaging the shock or mounts and that can happen while you are running down the track witch would not be good.

Next buy some mounts such as I posted, weld the adjustable clevis mount to the frame at the upper shock mount and then install a proper length limit strap to the lower shock bolt to the frame.

At that point you will take the load off your shock so you don't risk damage and now you can fine tune you travel stop point with the strap clevis.


I will say I don't agree with the limiting travel there for driving on the street since this is the most popular reason why ever one complains about there bad ride after lift keys are installed but I do agree for your competition reasons why you would modify the travel so like anything else this mod may be some thing you don't want to do if you plan on doing it you street drive most of the time.


Nor-Cal Nick

 

[RENODMAX]

Yea on a charged shock flipping it doesn't change anything.

This is really simple if you guys take a step back and re think what you need to achieve,

1. Proper shock control so your truck is not out of control at high speeds.

2. You need to limit travel so you do not over extend the control arm angle resulting in CV angles working at a harsh angle and braking under extreme torq.


To properly achieve this I myself would use a shock that will offer great valving and not stress on it also being the tool for limiting your travel because you will end up damaging the shock or mounts and that can happen while you are running down the track witch would not be good.

Next buy some mounts such as I posted, weld the adjustable clevis mount to the frame at the upper shock mount and then install a proper length limit strap to the lower shock bolt to the frame.

At that point you will take the load off your shock so you don't risk damage and now you can fine tune you travel stop point with the strap clevis.


I will say I don't agree with the limiting travel there for driving on the street since this is the most popular reason why ever one complains about there bad ride after lift keys are installed but I do agree for your competition reasons why you would modify the travel so like anything else this mod may be some thing you don't want to do if you plan on doing it you street drive most of the time.


Nor-Cal Nick

Every big sled puller says if you limit the front end with straps you may bounce, and for sure will break stuff right out of the front end though?