Brakes sticking sometimes

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,322
46
48
Granite Falls NC
So, everyday in my way home my brakes will get hot. This is in stop and go traffic so sometimes I have to get on them harder than normal. New pads and rotors last summer, but haven’t touched calipers or lines yet. This issue started after all the roads were salted up here and it started warming up. Initially it was the back brakes sticking. Like they wouldn’t disengage after I had to press a bit harder. It wasn’t always both, was kind of at random. But lately it’s been the front as well. Today I pulled all the calipers and greased the heck out of the slides, pads, and pins. On the way home all but my driver rear stuck and got hot on me. What could cause this? I can’t see all calipers going bad at once. Air in the lines somehow? Bad fluid or hoses?
 

1FastBrick

Active member
Dec 1, 2016
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You know in salted area's the factory steel lines have been known to rust through. Brake fluid is Hydroscopic so it absorbs water over time. I know rubber lines can also break down as well. Not sure when the last time the system was flushed.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,322
46
48
Granite Falls NC
You know in salted area's the factory steel lines have been known to rust through. Brake fluid is Hydroscopic so it absorbs water over time. I know rubber lines can also break down as well. Not sure when the last time the system was flushed.
Not sure it ever has been flushed honestly. I got the truck 2 years ago. I’m from NC and it was a local truck and just moved to Ohio so this is the first time the truck has seen this much salt. The lines don’t look bad. But I suppose I need to find somewhere to do a fluid flush for me.
 

1FastBrick

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Dec 1, 2016
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Ironically, the maintenance manual recomends to flush the fluid something like every few years or a mileage interval... I want to say 3 years/36k miles to flush and to inspect the condition in between oil changes.

I know, no one ever reads or does that and I am just a guilty.

First thing I do on every used truck is pull the resivor and clean all the brown sludge build up inside it, refill with fresh clean fluid and then flush the entire system until there is only clean fluid at every caliper. I also run the automated bleed procedure to stir up any thing in the system.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,322
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Granite Falls NC
I’ve considered doing it myself, the only issue is I don’t really have a place to do it. I have to work on it at my work after hours and never have any help. Ideally I’d like a 2011 hydro boost and stainless lines and a full flush but not in the budget right now. Hopefully a good flush will solve the issue. Like I said it’s only in traffic having to get on the brakes more than normal. And they just stick there.
 

1FastBrick

Active member
Dec 1, 2016
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I fell your pain on the budget...

I did the booster already on my LLY. Wasn't Bad at all. The Pressure bleeding took some time by my self. But once I got it figured out and dialed in , it was way better than trying to have some one pump the brakes.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,322
46
48
Granite Falls NC
I fell your pain on the budget...

I did the booster already on my LLY. Wasn't Bad at all. The Pressure bleeding took some time by my self. But once I got it figured out and dialed in , it was way better than trying to have some one pump the brakes.
I’ll have to check on that pressure bleeder. I hate messing with brakes especially the rear ones in these trucks. Sounds like it’ll make it a lot easier.
 

1FastBrick

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Dec 1, 2016
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Ron Nielson

Member
Oct 11, 2009
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Berryton, KS
The problem very well could be too much moisture in your brake fluid. When your fluid gets hot, the water in the brake fluid vaporizes (turns to steam) and applies your brakes, thus unable to un-apply the brakes. Flush using the power bleeder. You can do it at work in the parking lot.
1Empty the MC of old fluid and fill with new
2 add fluid to the power bleeder and attach bleeder to MC and pressurize to 15 lbs
3 Start ar RR, LR, RF LF, open bleeder screw with catch tube and bottle attached until fluid comes out clean, close bleeder screw.
4 Make SURE you don't run out of fluid during the process or you'll have to start over.

Lots of videos on Youtube about how to do this in more detail. If your bleeder screws are rusted in, that could be your biggest problem, otherwise, it is very easy. I do all my cars/trucks in the drive not jacked up.
 
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Ed04zf6

Ed04zf6
Oct 21, 2012
19
1
3
Nh
I’ve had calipers that were slow to retract. My mechanic said he runs into occasionally. He replaced the rubber hoses. The inside liner on the hose can break down causing blockage.
 
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zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,322
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48
Granite Falls NC
So I guess it could be the fluid, hoses, or calipers. It’s just strange they all started it randomly. I’m thinking fluid is the culprit. The calipers look great. They’re painted so I’m guessing not factory which does concern me a little but before this they worked great. Hoses I haven’t looked at in depth but I haven’t seen any cracks when messing with them so far. Not sure if they’re original or not.
 

zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,322
46
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Granite Falls NC
Little update. I did a test in the way home. Warmest day so far at 82°. In traffic on the way home I left plenty of distance and was able to ease in the brakes instead of having to ride them hard. None locked up at all.