800hp build ?s

Jun 27, 2017
49
0
6
Nebraska
Truck is an 07.5 LMM

I’m looking to make a max of about 800hp, I have questions on what might be needed. My goal sits at 750-800 to stay somewhat budget friendly and so I could do it in stages. Here is what I have planned

Callie’s Compstat Crankshaft
Carrillo rods
New Cast LB7 pistons cut and coated (SoCal)
ARP main studs
Balanced rotating assembly
?Stock keyed or AFO Camshaft?
ARP Headstuds

Fuel side will be 100% overs with a 10mm pump
Air will start with just a ported LLY turbo with billet wheel, high flow vanes, and 10blade turbine and will add an S480 over the top at some point once funds are replenished from the motor build.

Already have a built trans, may need to go back in with shafts at some point. Basically just want any feedback negative or positive on the build idea and mainly wanted to know opinions on what camshaft to use and what other parts might be needed. Thank you for any feedback.
 
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zakkb787

<that’s not me...
Sep 29, 2014
2,340
52
48
Granite Falls NC
Shouldn’t need shafts. Some guys are running 4 digit power with stock shafts. You can keep the stock can, you can go AF. You can go stage two, depends on what your goals with the truck are and how much you want to spend. I think at 800hp, you are making out what cut stock pistons can take. I’m not completely sure but I don’t know if a stock lly turbo will support that much power. Definitely not in a single form. Possible in a twin, but someone else will chime In That knows more
 
Jun 27, 2017
49
0
6
Nebraska
Shouldn’t need shafts. Some guys are running 4 digit power with stock shafts. You can keep the stock can, you can go AF. You can go stage two, depends on what your goals with the truck are and how much you want to spend. I think at 800hp, you are making out what cut stock pistons can take. I’m not completely sure but I don’t know if a stock lly turbo will support that much power. Definitely not in a single form. Possible in a twin, but someone else will chime In That knows more

Thanks for the info, I basically just want a fun street truck that I don’t have to constantly worry about the bottom end on. S480 over stock seems like the best for this as I still want to be able to tow and have good street manners. I’ve tried to do my research but most builds I have read about are either that 650 build or over 1000.
 

ZeroGravity58

Well-known member
Mar 23, 2008
1,382
46
48
38
Maryland
Thanks for the info, I basically just want a fun street truck that I don’t have to constantly worry about the bottom end on. S480 over stock seems like the best for this as I still want to be able to tow and have good street manners. I’ve tried to do my research but most builds I have read about are either that 650 build or over 1000.

When mine goes I'm going the same route you are. Im putting a 68 in the valley with the s480 over top ( I already have both). I'll prob sell the 10mm and go with a 12 or 14mm with 100 overs. For bottom end a Callie's compstart crank, Crower rods, but I'll upgrade to fingers pistons with a alt fire cam. I'm not pulling it back apart for a cracked piston. I plan on making under 1000hp, just want a fun, reliable, street truck
 
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Jun 27, 2017
49
0
6
Nebraska
When mine goes I'm going the same route you are. Im putting a 68 in the valley with the s480 over top ( I already have both). I'll prob sell the 10mm and go with a 12 or 14mm with 100 overs. For bottom end a Callie's compstart crank, Crower rods, but I'll upgrade to fingers pistons with a alt fire cam. I'm not pulling it back apart for a cracked piston. I plan on making under 1000hp, just want a fun, reliable, street truck

Ya I’m conflicted on pistons also, but see a lot of pulling guys run them coated at around 1000hp, I’ll make sure to speak with SoCal again before I for sure gobthat route
 

Burn Down

Hotrodder
Sep 14, 2008
7,093
28
48
Boise Idaho
Race cast Mahle or Fingers ovals... The crank is debatable as well but if you have the extra coin go for it.

It will make 800+ with that fuel and air.
 

torqued2dmax

Member
Mar 26, 2017
646
1
18
Brookville, PA
Ya I’m conflicted on pistons also, but see a lot of pulling guys run them coated at around 1000hp, I’ll make sure to speak with SoCal again before I for sure gobthat route
Do not forget the full time pulling guys drive about 5 miles a year and rebuild often , My vote is race cast or Fingers , Fingers preferably because he lives down the road from me and the local shop uses his pistons all the time without issues !
 

Chevy1925

don't know sh!t about IFS
Staff member
Oct 21, 2009
21,120
4,863
113
Phoenix Az
Don’t coat the pistons if you stay lb7. It will burn off. Does nothing for protection.

I would suggest putting the big turbo on sooner than later as it will make your engine last longer on those lb7 pistons. If you do that, you have strong 600-700hp engine but if you want to hammer on it at 800hp a lot, the pistons will be questionable. Even Mahle race cast are questionable there. I’d go fingers and be done.

Crank ain’t a bad idea but honestly I’d rather put a narrowed journal crank in if I’m buying new. Then you know you won’t have a broke crank issue.

Doing all that will give you a bottom end you won’t have to worry about and can flog on it. The rest of your drivetrain will be another issue
 
Jun 27, 2017
49
0
6
Nebraska
So, with a good recommendation from NE-MAX, the motor is at the machine shop. We will see how it goes. Plan is just for a fun daily that can still tow.
List I decided to go with
Mahle Race Cast Pistons
Brian Crower Rods
ARP main and headbolts
Stock keyed cam and crank
New oil pump and 2020 L5P oil cooler
Clevite bearings throughout

The only question I have left at this moment is headgaskets. I have ACDELCO gaskets, but I think I remember hearing issues with these. Does anyone have recommendations? I will need to measure and select a different gasket as we are going to have to take a little more that I thought off the top due to a wear mark on the block around the number 8 piston.