IMO I wouldn't touch a 5spd if it's not getting built. A TransgoJr won't offer any realistic holding power increase and more so a shift quality increase.
If the transmission is being built by a shop they likely are already using a TransgoJr kit.
6 speed to 5 speed swap!
- Thread starter turbovan
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If the transmission is being built by a shop they likely are already using a TransgoJr kit.
Perfect. Thanks for the response. I wasn't sure of there was any recommendations as far as doing/upgrading to make things more reliable etc. I have a cracked bell housing on an LB7 I've been freshening up so figured if there were any sort of suggestions while I had that apart it'd be a good time to do them. The truck is just a work truck so no big power gains in the picture or anything.
If you've got it out it will not hurt anything to do a RatioTek pressure kit and a TransgoJr but it will not help the C3s hold tons more power depending on their lifespan.
Don't get me wrong, if it's out you can see gains but it's not like going to an upgraded friction disk or higher clutch counts. You could inspect the C3 clutches and make a call on them.
That's where I was going haha.
Initially I assumed trans was in the truck until he said it had a cracked bell housing.
I know some aren't "transmission savvy" but I cringe when guys throw a completely stock transmission in a truck. Yea F that lol, but I like to tinker
Appreciate the suggestion, sounds like thats what I will do after I get the trans out and bellhousing pulled. After inspection, if needed, is there a suggested C3 clutch pack to go with for my general use? Along with the C3 pack, should I bother doing the TranGo Jr with Mikes trim springs and the Ratiotek kit with shift springs & Line pressure spring? Leave the shim out ? Thanks again
A lot depends on your power goal and budget. The Raybestos Torq Kits have treated me good for their intended purpose, they still use slotted frictions like OE but are much cheaper than the solid aftermarket options. The c3 pack is +1 over stock, kind of like the OG Alto power packs
With the info you gave us, I'd run stock pressure spring / modified converter valve / transgo Jr / ML shift springs. If you aren't running an aftermarket c1 or c2 pack adding overall line pressure can cause the apply plates to bow (not that I've personally witnessed but that's the theory) in a 5spd drum.
With the info you gave us, I'd run stock pressure spring / modified converter valve / transgo Jr / ML shift springs. If you aren't running an aftermarket c1 or c2 pack adding overall line pressure can cause the apply plates to bow (not that I've personally witnessed but that's the theory) in a 5spd drum.
I'm not looking to go too much over stock. I will most likely just do a single tow type tune. I have a stock replacement turbo with billet wheel and 25% SAC injectors for the engine. New head gaskets and studded. This is just a work truck that is used for work around the farm and towing occasionally. The goal is to just make it reliable where I can when I have everything apart. Its just a project that snowballed as I didn't plan to pull the trans out until I noticed the cracked bellhousing. I will look at the Torq Kits. Thanks!
As far as the valve body goes, I will stick with the stock pressure spring. Should I just replace the A and B "orange" trim springs that are in the TG Jr kit with Mike L's version or go ahead and do the C, D and E shift valves as well? (I see DHD sells a kit for those) I will have to look into the convertor valve mod, I'm not familiar with that one- or is it the flattening procedure? Or just purchase one that's done from Inglewood? And will this be OK for stock convertor? I've read some things about using an LML convertor but hadnt planned to replace that.
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The pressure spring and converter valve are located in the stator housing that sit between bellhousing and case. Yes modifying is "flattening" or cutting a small groove in the outside. If you have an early stator with the hollow valve it requires further modification, might be worth your time to get one from Inglewood that's been modified.
As far as the stock converter goes, Mike L always said higher pressure during lockup would kill a stock converter. I'm sure there's some truth there but I've done two MD International trucks with molded valves and they're doing fine. IMO it's worth the $700 or so for an aftermarket single disk.
Skip the transgo shift valves you might see, the JR kit comes with the trim a/b valves. The ML trim springs replace the tiny internal check ball springs NOT the orange outer spring. Also use the updated shift springs like mentioned. This stuff won't equate to a bunch of holding power, but will crisp the shifts up like Brad said