2002 Brake Master Cylinder Tube Replacement

SmokeShow

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Nov 30, 2006
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The tube front tube out of the bottom of the MC has sprung a leak & needs replacing. I’d just as soon get a flexible hose replacement instead of the tube. But can anyone help with a part number for either a replacement hose or tube?

Any help would be appreciated. 👍🏼
 

SmokeShow

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Nov 30, 2006
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And I need to clarify, it’s not the tubes out of the bottom of the MC like I indicated before. It’s leaking where that hose is crimped to the metal tube. That’s metal tube goes into the top of the MC and I think the hose part runs down to the power steering pump on the engine.

So a name and/or part number and/or best replacement brand/option for that leaking hose (hose part has loom on it) hose would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

clrussell

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Sep 23, 2013
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Oh you need a power steering hose..

I think there’s multiple companies that offer replacements now with hydraulic hose. Merchant should be one of them.
 

firestopper

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Nov 27, 2020
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Mitch,
if you want to save some dough you could buy direct replacement from your local auto warehouse. The kit that clrussell recommended are a quality upgrade forsake but come with a hearty price. I just replaced them on my 05 LLY and used Edelman brand. Not sure if the same p/n will work with your 02 but its a start.
ELD 80337 $18.39
ELD 92083 $30.50

I kept my old lines and plan to cut the metal tubing off the crimp ends and silver braze a male AN fitting to be mated to a section of 15" quality hydraulic hose with crimped matching female AN's. Those sections will run under $30 each. They will sit on the shelf until needed.
 

SmokeShow

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Nov 30, 2006
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Yeah, the upgraded ones are expensive but I'd rather do it right the first time. I'm sure I missed any black friday sales any of the shops had - just my luck. Anyone able to help me out on a set? 😁
 

SmokeShow

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Nov 30, 2006
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I bought the fancy lines from Merchant. Any tips, tricks or how-to things I should know to remove & replace lines and then refill the MC - I assume it'll all empty out (it's leaked to the point of too low for the brakes now)? Any insight would be much appreciated.
 

firestopper

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Nov 27, 2020
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It straight forward really. Take your time pulling the old lines rotating as required to feed them out. There is one frame clamp that you'll need to remove (13 mm bolt head), I used a swivel socket with air ratchet. Most of the work is done with the drivers side inner wheel well removed. I was able to perform this with the 35" tire in place. The biggest thing is to cap/plug or tape the ends (openings) of the new lines while installing to keep them clean. Also flush your system prior to replacing the lines. Old fluid and small particles will cause your booster to leak. Lastly, install a PS cooler if you don't already have one.
 
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SmokeShow

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Nov 30, 2006
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Lawrenceburg, KY
It straight forward really. Take your time pulling the old lines rotating as required to feed them out. There is one frame clamp that you'll need to remove (13 mm bolt head), I used a swivel socket with air ratchet. Most of the work is done with the drivers side inner wheel well removed. I was able to perform this with the 35" tire in place. The biggest thing is to cap/plug or tape the ends (openings) of the new lines while installing to keep them clean. Also flush your system prior to replacing the lines. Old fluid and small particles will cause your booster to leak. Lastly, install a PS cooler if you don't already have one.
what system are you meaning to bleed? These lines go from the MC to the PS pump on the engine, right? So I assume they actually carry brake fluid. So do you mean bleed the brake lines out to the wheels? I remember there being something wonky about bleeding the rear brake lines - something do with the ABS control box requiring the use of electronics to cycle the valves in the box to allow the fluid to be fully bled out?

If you meant PS fluid, that is just in the reservoir on the pump on the engine, right? Vac it out and replace with new? Where do folks typically mount a PS cooler? FWIW, this truck is strictly a pavement queen, grocery getter. No towing. No performance mods of any kind beyond an air intake and stoopid exhaust stacks. Not sure how necessary a PS cooler is for this truck’s use?
 

darkness

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Jul 15, 2009
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Yes it’s PS fluid. Remove the return hose from the brake booster and install a length of hose from the booster into a bucket/catch can whatever. Make sure your pump is full. Run the truck with the wheels off the ground and turn the wheel left and right. Just a little not full lock. Also pump the brakes. Keep doing this till you get clean fluid out of the hose. ALWAYS keep checking the pump and keep full. Don’t let it run empty.
 

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LB7_01DURAMAX

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Apr 11, 2019
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I recently replaced all my power steering lines and reservoir on my truck like other people said tape them up when installing. I pulled intercooler tube off mine for more room and replaced all the lines while I was in there. To the gear box and everything. If you do pull the tube off to get in there and you live where they salt roads might be a good idea to get a new clamp as mine broke where it connects to the boot cause it was a bit rusted up.
 
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firestopper

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Yes it’s PS fluid. Remove the return hose from the brake booster and install a length of hose from the booster into a bucket/catch can whatever. Make sure your pump is full. Run the truck with the wheels off the ground and turn the wheel left and right. Just a little not full lock. Also pump the brakes. Keep doing this till you get clean fluid out of the hose. ALWAYS keep checking the pump and keep full. Don’t let it run empty.
I recently replaced all my power steering lines and reservoir on my truck like other people said tape them up when installing. I pulled intercooler tube off mine for more room and replaced all the lines while I was in there. To the gear box and everything. If you do pull the tube off to get in there and you live where they salt roads might be a good idea to get a new clamp as mine broke where it connects to the boot cause it was a bit rusted up.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Exactly what they stated.
Pay attention to how the one line attaches to the back of the pump. You'll need to route it the same to keep thing from rubbing together (chaffing). I failed to mention to remove the intercooler tube to gain access to the top of the steering box. Make sure you can start the line nuts by hand with a good thread engagement otherwise you could cross thread.
One last thing (sorry) make sure you account for the old O-rings. A small hooked pick tool makes it easy to recover from the ports. Use a dab of clean PS fluid to lube the new ones prior to instal and don't over tighten the nuts. They should be tight but not to the point of crushing the said O-ring. Prior to buttoning up the job, inspect any potential chaffing points and correct to include the intercooler tube. That tube is thin aluminum and will rub through fairly quickly.

Incidentally, my OEM PS lines lasted 15 years or 95K miles.
IMG_3460.JPG
 
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