Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #46  
Old 01-12-2018, 07:26 AM
dylon333 dylon333 is offline
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What do you mean by not adding 10psi
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  #47  
Old 01-12-2018, 07:32 AM
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Doizer boy... I'll look for those tables tonight. Thank you.. The trans is a stage one with converter, but not exactly sure what that consist of because I didn't build it. So I'm a little leary of it. I think I'm actually under 30 like more around 25ish after watching the edge box a little closer
better put a boost gauge in and change out the map sensor for one that reads higher. stock wont read above 25psi IIRC

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What do you mean by not adding 10psi
2004LB7 was stating to add 8-10psi in the desired boost area on the top end to make the charger make more boost. i dont agree with this method but it doesnt mean im right either, thats why i was stating to put it on a dyno or hook a drive pressure gauge up.
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  #48  
Old 01-12-2018, 08:21 AM
dylon333 dylon333 is offline
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Ooo ok makes sense. I was under impression stock map would read up to 30 is that incorrect? Is there a different map sensor I can use to get it reading correct?
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  #49  
Old 01-12-2018, 08:31 AM
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Ooo ok makes sense. I was under impression stock map would read up to 30 is that incorrect? Is there a different map sensor I can use to get it reading correct?
there is one from honeywell that will read to 100psi but you will have to rescale the map for it so it reads accurately. Otherwise Edge makes a secondary sensor you can plumb in and make the cts/cts2 read off it.
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Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
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  #50  
Old 01-12-2018, 10:03 AM
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Stock reads up to 30 but I wouldn’t trust it. A lot of guys killed turbos using the edge while learning to tune.

I guess I never asked but you are using the stock turbo right?

You can log converter slip. A lot of slip in first and part of second is normal but you should have almost no slip in the rest of the gears at WOT from the dig.


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  #51  
Old 01-12-2018, 06:54 PM
dylon333 dylon333 is offline
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Correct on the stock turbo. Ill have to log the converter slip next time i log. I thought the alli was really good about going into limp mode if it sensed any slippage?

How much fuel can i command in the power range, not so much top end but more so like mid range power area. On the cummins i went till i started getting smoke and then backed the fuel back down, till i had no smoke. Can i do that on the duramax too?

I'm not looking to crack any pistons but want to make power haha!
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  #52  
Old 01-12-2018, 07:45 PM
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ok guys I have literally spent every second of spare time I could find reading and playing around. I took a stock tune and started from scratch, and think ive made a decent aggressive street tune. truck seems to run very well, no smoke other then a hard stomp down on it I did see some but nothing crazy. egts get up around 1500 if I stay into but I'm around 100 mph at that point so letting out anyways.

My biggest concern is figuring out how far I can push it, without crossing the line! Ive been using joshs timing calculator, thank god he made that and shared it, but man the cummins calculator is way easier!

I'm going to post MY tune and if you guys get time take look and give me some pointers on where you think I could benefit, I will say my mileage went from 13.5 to 19, I reset it and have driven 150 miles or so and wouldn't call them easy as I was doing wot runs and still reading 19. Find out when I fill up I guess.

My biggest questions I'm still trying to figure out is the altitude tables, and what i can do with the turbo vanes on the top end if anything? my boost seems to stay under 30 which is what i think i want to be around, so wasn't sure if should mess with that much or not. I will say it pulls hard from a dig all the way till i let out!

I deff want more info on that adding a button that would be an awesome addition! hell i just started using the bbx logging and thinks that great ive always just used the laptop and kept a pad of paper and made notes while driving, not best idea but hey it worked!

Thanks for that info in max uS and timing info been looking for that and most i could find said 2000us was make safe but i figured that was probably older trucks.

anyways now that i have wrote a novel heres the tune let me know what you guys think!
Sorry but i didn't read through the whole thread, what are your goals? I'll move to some basics.

OK, looking at this tune that you posted on page 3 (think this is the latest tune posted), LBZ 1 street 3, i see some things that stand out.

1st, use the stock fuel pressure tables, they work well on a LBZ

2nd, use stock vane position tables. If you want to increase boost, then use the desired boost tables, not vane position. The stock boost tables show boost plus baro. Example, if you want 26psi of boost, then you need to add 26psi plus your baro, lets say 26 plus 12 baro = 38. set your max desired boost on the low elevation table to 38 (lower right of the table). Adjust accordingly at desired rpm. Tow tunes should have a couple/few more PSI in the mid range, fyi. Play with it for best egts and mpg, but don't go over 30psi boost (-baro) if you want to be safe. More boost will hurt mpg, fyi.

3rd, your main injection pulse table is jacked up. Use the stock table and add pulse to the lower/right area. Table should have declining pulse from high rail psi down (stock is the opposite of what i mean). This way if the truck can't keep rail psi, then the ecm will pull duration back until it finds a happy medium. If the pulse table goes from low to high as the rail psi drops, then the rail psi will drop like a rock as the ecm will keep demanding more and more duration as the rail psi drops. This is not good and will cause engine limp.

Your timing table is not too bad, you still have the stock timing limiters in place so i don't think you will have issues running what you have in that tune. There is a smoothing feature, you should learn to use it.

These are just some basic pointers. You have limiters active, not a bad thing, depending on your goals but could limit any changes that you make.
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  #53  
Old 01-12-2018, 07:57 PM
IdahoRob IdahoRob is offline
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By the way, LBZ stock boost sensor will read 52.6 psi max. If you log that and then minus the baro, you can still see boost psi way above what a stock turbo should be seeing. Log and look at baro and boost at idle then do the math from there.
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  #54  
Old 01-12-2018, 08:04 PM
dylon333 dylon333 is offline
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ok thanks i will change the pressure table back to stock. I haven't messed with the vane or boost tables other then changing idle vane position, which i change back to stock now.

I took the stock pulse table, and started adding pulse width to the bottom right corner, and then added it to the mid range. haven't messed with the left bottom side of the map, Should i be because you and 2004lb7 both made a comment about that area of my pulse table.

I had the table smoothed out but started making changes here and there but not sure if that's what your commenting on or not.
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  #55  
Old 01-12-2018, 08:10 PM
dylon333 dylon333 is offline
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assuming i need to change my limiters table and add a few degrees timing to the limiter table
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  #56  
Old 01-12-2018, 08:41 PM
dylon333 dylon333 is offline
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really appreciate all the advice.

I changed pressure table back to stock, upped the timing limiter, changed vane positon table back to stock and adjusted the ect vane table. think i fixed what you guys were talking about in my pulse table, and smoothed out my timing table and fixed a few things in there after rerunning timing calculator. Going to load tune tomorrow morning and see what kind of changes this made.

here it is if anyone wants to check it out.
Attached Files
File Type: ctz LBZ 1 street_4.ctz (1.01 MB, 4 views)
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  #57  
Old 01-12-2018, 08:51 PM
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I dont post much but i have to say you are lucky that you have alot of guys with alot of experience helping you, they dont have to share but they do. This is why i keep looking at this site, alot if good people.
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  #58  
Old 01-12-2018, 09:18 PM
dylon333 dylon333 is offline
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I know I am blown away by the generosity of the guys on this site! Glad I found it! And glad I posted asking for help!
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  #59  
Old 01-12-2018, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
better put a boost gauge in and change out the map sensor for one that reads higher. stock wont read above 25psi IIRC

2004LB7 was stating to add 8-10psi in the desired boost area on the top end to make the charger make more boost. i dont agree with this method but it doesnt mean im right either, thats why i was stating to put it on a dyno or hook a drive pressure gauge up.
let me try and explain my reasoning for the suggestion of adding boost. currently the tune maxes out at 37 PSI. since this includes atmospheric pressure. the boost will actually max out at around 22 or so PSI. adding 8 to 10 PSI to the map could allow him to take advantage of the full capability of the turbo by raising the max boost to 30~32.

now if it runs great and doesn't smoke too much at WOT then great, leave it that way. no need to add to the drive pressure as you touched on.

also, I think the MAP sensor maxes out at 32 PSIG.

this may not be correct but I hope this clears up my earlier post.
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  #60  
Old 01-13-2018, 04:00 AM
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Search on you tube there use to be a bunch of how to vids. Not really how to tune but how some of the functions does table editing work. Like smoothing cells, making maps, and etc.

Rob is right about the pulse table you only really need to add fuel in the lower right. If you need more fuel down low that done with maf limiting, but it will get smokey most likely.

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Last edited by Dozerboy; 01-13-2018 at 06:57 AM.
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