Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #1  
Old 05-10-2018, 07:51 PM
FastZero FastZero is offline
FastZero
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: LaVista, NE
Posts: 2
Default LML EGR Parts needed

Hello all. NewBe here.
2013 GMC 6.6 Duramax Diesel 2500hd Sierra LML 44K miles 2nd owner.
I have been chasing codes P24c4 & P049d for a couple days now.
My reputable dealer wants $2,800 to do the EGR Cooler by-pass valve replacement. I know it is a hard one to replace.
Right now I am trying to get around that expense, not go through all that work myself, and avoid deleting the EGR system.
Things I have found and done to lead me to this post. BTW I hope this helps someone else too.
Removed the connector, then I took off the cover of both, the EGR valve and EGR Cooler valve.
The covers are the same. Same electronics, and the mechanisms the same. The torx screws come out easy. For the bypass valve, I rigged up a torx bit taped in a 1/4 drive socket/ratchet. One screw I get out with the bit taped into a long boxed in wrench. Much easier to get than the whole valve.
The bypass cooler valve had condensation in it, yes, water, a little corrosion on the electronics, and the gear was stuck. I freed up the gear, dried it all out, tested the motor, valve opens & closes smoothly, and I brushed off the corrosion. If you are wondering how I tested the motor....I had read that the motor runs off 5V, so I used a 6 volt battery to test run the motors in both valves to open & close the valve. Both worked fine. I don't have a clue as to where the condensation is coming from in the EGR cooler bypass valve. I will say that the stuck gear looked to me to be caused from the heat.
The other EGR valve was dry inside and gear turned the mech freely.
I said a little prayer and put it all back together. (Please remember what I am trying to avoid.)
After clearing the codes, running it, the CEL came back on with the codes again.
I read as much as I could find from the freeze frame data from my code reader, thought about the code referencing out of range and positioning. Then, with my VOM, I did a little comparison of the 2 circuit boards in the cover. They did not compare the same!
So, I want to replace the cover and the gear. Of course these parts are not available by themselves.
I thought I'd go and buy a new valve and take out the parts and use them to try my idea to fix it without removing the cab to get it out and replace the whole valve. (If this don't work oh well, I need the valve anyway, right?)
This would be well worth the effort if that is all that's wrong with my valve and maybe the next guys.
Before I go and buy the new valve I'd like to ask if anyone has a used EGR valve laying around from a delete that was possibly OK, maybe just coked up, that you will sell me these 2 parts out of.
I'd like the parts from the EGR valve, not the bypass valve. Thats because of my conclusion that the heat caused the gear to stick and that bypass valve runs a lot hotter.
I will definitely post my results as soon as I get those 2 parts.
Email me if you can help. Thanks for listening. Gary.
fast_zero@hotmail.com
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 05-13-2018, 01:24 PM
FastZero FastZero is offline
FastZero
 
Join Date: May 2018
Location: LaVista, NE
Posts: 2
Default

OK, I got a lot done since my initial post. P24C4 code. I hope this helps someone.
Locally, I did get a complete USED EGR assembly, both valves, coolers, & pipe.
Guy said it all came off a working 2011 LML that he did the delete on.
They looked pretty clean. I bench tested and inspected them and all I found was the EGR valve would stick near the wide open position.
(I don't need or want it anyway, just the removable parts out of it).
I would not have went to all this trouble if my EGR cooler bypass valve showed any evidence of sticking or limited travel, so check that before you try this.
The parts I replaced in the cooler valve was, the MOTOR, (Remember I said this valve had water in it?) Initionaly all I did was test this motor, but taking it out was easy and I'm glad I did, it was rusted. How it even worked at all is surprising.
(Be sure to put the motor back in the valve the same way it came out!)
Also I replaced the gear and the cover with all the electronics.
I cleared the codes with my ODBII tool, and all has been OK. Driven only 10 miles or so, 2 warm ups, started a dozen times.
No stored codes, pending codes or permanent ones either!
So instead of the tedious job of replacing the complete EGR Cooler bypass valve all I did was replace the motor, gear, & cover from a donor valve.
All that can be done without removing the valve from the engine.
I probably got lucky that my valve was throwing the P24C4 code because of all this and
not stuck. Also luckey that the donor valve had good parts.
I do assume that the reason for the failure(s) was due to the condensation and/or the gear that had this valve stuck.
For now, I'll put that $2,800 back into my pocket!
Thanks again for listening.
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:17 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.9
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vB.Sponsors