Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #76  
Old 07-10-2019, 10:00 PM
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Chevy1925 Chevy1925 is offline
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Originally Posted by DAVe3283 View Post
I've never had too much trouble tuning a LBZ FPR in a stock CP3, but my 12mm CP3 with LBZ reg did give me some trouble. Still can't get it to follow rail as close as I like on a snap decel (end of a 1/4 run for example). It will hang high for a few frames, then undershoot and come back to desired after 300ms or so. Any tweaks I make to the so-called PID tables (it's not a real PID control on the LB7) seem to cause more trouble than they're worth on the whole. None of this was bad enough to throw a code, but I'm probably my own "picky" customer LOL

The reason I end up with LBZ FPRs in everything is because like the LBZ CP3, they seem to be cheaper, and I'm cheap. Fix it with software!


It seems to be a case by case basis. Some damn near never need a tweak, others are a god damn nightmare. Really doesnít make sense to me. Thatís varied from stock cp3ís, bigger singles, two stockers (both with lbz fpr) or mixing cp3ís. Mixing larger cp3ís has been the toughest to get things calmed down. Specially with a ppe cp3 controller. Fingers controller is much easier to control different sized cp3ís imho. Itís mainly in the areas you mentioned as well as altitude changes and temp control that is hardest to dial in. Basically a daily driver.
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02 LB7, LLY, LBZ, LMM, LML, L5P 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

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back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

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  #77  
Old 07-10-2019, 10:15 PM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
No, gotta read closer. Iím saying the 3k rail pressure that most guys are trying to gain (max the stock rail pressure sensor sees) can be had with tuning. Nothing tuning wise will change the rpm fuel flow limit a stock cp3 has.
Oh okay, I get it now. Thatís what I thought at first but didnít understand.

Iím not tuning stuff myself like a lot of you guys, so my understanding is just at an armchair general level. I just wanted to make sure you werenít recommending something else. Iím trying to keep the costs low, but also do it right.
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  #78  
Old 07-11-2019, 05:30 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
It seems to be a case by case basis. Some damn near never need a tweak, others are a god damn nightmare. Really doesnít make sense to me. Thatís varied from stock cp3ís, bigger singles, two stockers (both with lbz fpr) or mixing cp3ís. Mixing larger cp3ís has been the toughest to get things calmed down. Specially with a ppe cp3 controller. Fingers controller is much easier to control different sized cp3ís imho. Itís mainly in the areas you mentioned as well as altitude changes and temp control that is hardest to dial in. Basically a daily driver.
Surprisingly my truck (14mm street in the valley with a stock LBZ on the belt) hasn't given my tuner any issues with a PPE controller.
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  #79  
Old 07-11-2019, 08:13 AM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Originally Posted by zakkb787 View Post
FPR is the only difference and it just allows you to run a few more thousand rail psi. Jesse is running 800+ hp on a stock bottom end and zf6, but he has a lot of power and not much torque. Itís all in the tuning. Any truck with the wrong tune can pretzel a rod.

Also, I canít see why youíd have more than $150 in a filter setup. The heads are $25-30. The filters arenít as expensive as stock either if you get CAT filters.

But 450 hp will be a blast. And stock turbo can easily support that and fairly safely.
Do you have links to the filter heads youíre talking about? Do they need adapters or does the CAT filter fit right on the head?
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  #80  
Old 07-11-2019, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by fl0w3n View Post
Do you have links to the filter heads you’re talking about? Do they need adapters or does the CAT filter fit right on the head?
Google Napa 4770 or WIX 24770. It’s a pretty standard thread. Should be able to find them easily, after all that’s what the filter heads are designed for. Kennedy pumps run low psi high volume so standard fuel hose and clamps on a barbed fitting should work just fine. I had considered putting both heads after the pump to make things simpler but the inlet/outlet design messes with that. My plan is to put one head behind the pump with a higher micron filter/water separator to make sure the pump is getting clean fuel, then put a 2 micron CAT or 1 micron Baldwin filter in front of of it so that it pushes the fuel thru and all the way directly to the cp3. I do plan to use a sump on my truck as it will never see hard off roading. I would highly recommend getting the full Kennedy kit with pickup. Easy install, less restriction, peace of mind, and at your mileage and age there’s no telling how your factory pickup is looking inside there.

Air dog will simplify this by leaps and bounds, but I’m partial to the Kennedy design. I see many more airdog/fass pumps failing than Kennedy. Part of this could be because of how many there are out there in comparison, but the Kennedy design in theory shouldn’t ever wear out. No moving parts.
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Last edited by zakkb787; 07-11-2019 at 09:58 AM.
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  #81  
Old 07-12-2019, 10:34 AM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Originally Posted by zakkb787 View Post
Google Napa 4770 or WIX 24770. Itís a pretty standard thread. Should be able to find them easily, after all thatís what the filter heads are designed for. Kennedy pumps run low psi high volume so standard fuel hose and clamps on a barbed fitting should work just fine. I had considered putting both heads after the pump to make things simpler but the inlet/outlet design messes with that. My plan is to put one head behind the pump with a higher micron filter/water separator to make sure the pump is getting clean fuel, then put a 2 micron CAT or 1 micron Baldwin filter in front of of it so that it pushes the fuel thru and all the way directly to the cp3. I do plan to use a sump on my truck as it will never see hard off roading. I would highly recommend getting the full Kennedy kit with pickup. Easy install, less restriction, peace of mind, and at your mileage and age thereís no telling how your factory pickup is looking inside there.

Air dog will simplify this by leaps and bounds, but Iím partial to the Kennedy design. I see many more airdog/fass pumps failing than Kennedy. Part of this could be because of how many there are out there in comparison, but the Kennedy design in theory shouldnít ever wear out. No moving parts.
I liked the Kennedy I had on my LBZ, but I didnít use any filters, just the pump.

I just finally sacked up and pulled the trigger on the 45s, new lines, super sport CP3, and airdog 100. I got a little discount for buying it all at once, and I figure if I apply that towards the airdog itís only $100 or so more than building my own with the Kennedy setup... but saves me some time by not having to figure it out.

Things are gettin real
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  #82  
Old 07-12-2019, 06:34 PM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Instead of starting a new thread, I figured I’d ask here - if you had to build a motor from scratch and could only use factory parts, what would you make? I think I’ve seen that LBZ rods and LB7 pistons are the “best”. Are all the blocks the same? Which factory heads are the best?

I don’t think I’m ready for that yet, at least I hope not, but eventually I’d think I need to at least re-ring this thing and redo the heads, maybe main bearings. Rear main leaks too.
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  #83  
Old 07-12-2019, 06:52 PM
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You have SACs so I’d build the lb7 with lbz rods and cut lb7 pistons.
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  #84  
Old 07-12-2019, 07:05 PM
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Lml Rods with delipped new lb7 pistons, lml crank
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LB7, LLY, LBZ, LMM, LML, L5P 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #85  
Old 07-12-2019, 10:04 PM
rickcdewitt rickcdewitt is offline
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As far as turbo size it really sucks to fall out of the boost while towing or wheeling.especially taking off or going really slow really heavy. A bigger turbo will just make it worse with the zf.allisons are more forgiving there. When i want more air I'll get a s4?? to twin with.

On the studs and gaskets or not does your truck run below 180ish and then heat up to that level with a load real quick? If so probably needs gaskets.my truck didn't make the hoses hard but it had an obvious leak when the heads came off

I'm a little jealous i was where you are at last year and didn't do enough research to consider sac's or an lly top end.

And a bit of a hijack but did your sb dual have dowel pins to locate the pressure plate to the flywheel? The one i just got is missing them?
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  #86  
Old 07-13-2019, 10:30 AM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rickcdewitt View Post
As far as turbo size it really sucks to fall out of the boost while towing or wheeling.especially taking off or going really slow really heavy. A bigger turbo will just make it worse with the zf.allisons are more forgiving there. When i want more air I'll get a s4?? to twin with.

On the studs and gaskets or not does your truck run below 180ish and then heat up to that level with a load real quick? If so probably needs gaskets.my truck didn't make the hoses hard but it had an obvious leak when the heads came off

I'm a little jealous i was where you are at last year and didn't do enough research to consider sac's or an lly top end.

And a bit of a hijack but did your sb dual have dowel pins to locate the pressure plate to the flywheel? The one i just got is missing them?
Thatís a great point. Iíd rank wheeling and towing ahead of performance for this truck.

To be honest, I donít remember about coolant and temp. Iíve only got about 1200 miles on it since I got it, and itís been sitting for 8 months since then. Iíll have to check when I start driving it again.

I tend to over research stuff, sometimes to a fault

This is the only pic I have, but itís facing the wrong way. Iím pretty sure those dowels you can see on the pressure plate side weíre also on the flywheel side.
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  #87  
Old 07-13-2019, 10:50 AM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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So new question, once I get these 45s and the LBZ CP3 in, will it be driveable without tuning? I was planning on stopping by a buddy’s house and doing the tune upload because he’s already got my vin license, but that’s a 200 mile drive.
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  #88  
Old 07-13-2019, 12:08 PM
rickcdewitt rickcdewitt is offline
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Thanks for the pic,it looks identical to mine. I'll have to crawl under my truck and see if the pins for the intermediate plate also locate the pressure plate?

I've read here that you can get away with 45's untuned but you should wait to hear from someone who knows more than j@cksh!t
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  #89  
Old 07-13-2019, 12:30 PM
rickcdewitt rickcdewitt is offline
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Sitting under my truck right now messing with the clutch.i guess the pressure plate isn't located except by the bolts. It slops around quite bit.I think I'll have words with south bend monday
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  #90  
Old 07-13-2019, 12:55 PM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Originally Posted by rickcdewitt View Post
Sitting under my truck right now messing with the clutch.i guess the pressure plate isn't located except by the bolts. It slops around quite bit.I think I'll have words with south bend monday
Now that you say it, yeah I think I only had the bolts locating and holding it. But I donít recall any slop at all. Once the centering tool was inserted and everything tightened down, I donít think I had any concern about it moving.

Getting the trans lined back up, that was another story.

Did that part with a friend and on the shop floor instead of a lift, it kicked our ass.
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