Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 09-21-2017, 11:50 AM
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I never understood the reasoning behind that. No matter where you dump the oil, it will still flow to the static oil level. But, it wasn't going to gamble my only oil pan, so I went the tried and true method. My local diesel shop dumps the oil somewhere in the valve cover.
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  #32  
Old 09-21-2017, 01:48 PM
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The valve cover? That's something new I suppose haha
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  #33  
Old 09-21-2017, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtymax36 View Post
The valve cover? That's something new I suppose haha
I think Trent Nell did some kits that way,it works if you mount the turbo high enough. Thats how I want to do mine when/if I get that far, the other option is the front of the upper oil pan.
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  #34  
Old 09-21-2017, 06:13 PM
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I think the upper front oil pan is by far the best location. Easy access and the best drain position.


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  #35  
Old 11-19-2017, 07:47 PM
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Got all the piping fabbed up and on. Currently fighting fitment for the intake and MAF. Waiting on a silicone boot elbow and should be complete besides oil drain sndbpowder coating the piping once I test run it to make sure there's no leaks. I'll try to upload some pictures from the process.

Secondly, what's everyone using to clean the inside of the pipe before you run the Truck? As far as welding slag, welding wire that may have fallen inside and stuck, etc. I got most of it all clean, just paranoid to ruin $3k in chargers. Thanks in advance
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  #36  
Old 11-19-2017, 07:51 PM
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I'm guessing you used a mig welder instead of a Tig. Die grider with a carbide or flapper sander would be the best bet.
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  #37  
Old 11-19-2017, 07:53 PM
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Mig correct. I'll have to do that
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  #38  
Old 11-26-2017, 07:53 PM
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I finished it all up and is running. Waiting on Starlite to get it tuned this week and let it rip. Right now it wont do much due to the MAF not scaled correctly. So far, knock on wood, no leaks or weird noises.

I have pictures but cannot upload them for some reason, if someone on here would allow me to text them to them to upload, that would be great.

I have also considered picking up a billet 7 (or maybe 6?) blade wheel from Bullseye during the Cyber Monday sales, although does anyone on here have experience with upgrading a cast 80 to billet 80? as far as sound, spool, and performance? Just asking due to the fact I would have to send it off to somewhere to be balanced and cost of the wheel alone ($350).

Thanks to all have contributed!
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  #39  
Old 12-31-2017, 02:37 PM
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  #40  
Old 12-31-2017, 02:42 PM
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Here's a few pictures throughout the assembly process. took lots of time and patients but overall wasnt bad.
-Huge thanks to Starlite diesel tuning for the help and fine tuning. This thing rips and spools near instantly. The truck will be put on a dyno with a drive pressure guage soon to record data and make sure i wont need to Plumb in a wastegate. If it doesn't tow a trailer well, Ill be switching either the valley charger housing from a 1.0 to a .91 or on the atmo 1.32 to a 1.10 to keep it going without hurting my overall goal of 900hp
-Also will be doing a 6 speed swap on the truck here soon with one of the new soon to be released kits to use a unlocked TCM.

Overall its a blast to drive and drives like a gas truck with a punch. Once its off idle it is extremely quiet and cruises down the highway as quiet as a stock exhaust truck. Anyone looking to do a similar setup feel free to ask questions.
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  #41  
Old 12-31-2017, 03:10 PM
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Looks really nice. All that wrap on your DP is going to make it rust faster. Maybe remove that last 1'-2' of it? Everything below the exhaust manifolds that was wrapped on my truck was starting to pit badly after a few years and I just vacation into areas that get winter weather and salt.

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  #42  
Old 12-31-2017, 03:13 PM
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Thanks! And I thought about that also, forgot to include the truck doesn’t get drove in the winter and once I can get some miles on it to prove it doesn’t leak or need any other fan work, the piping and turbo covers are coming off for powder coating along with the down pipe
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  #43  
Old 02-18-2018, 03:22 PM
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Alright looking for some advice again...truck is very fun to drive, although it’s still a little on the laggy side and once the converter locks, especially in 5th at highway speeds, it still acts and spools like a big single. Multiple logs and revisions have helped out a lot although it just isn’t cutting it. Hardly and low end torque for towing. I’ve thrown around the idea of going down to a .88 or .91 housing in the valley and if that doesn’t help go down to a 1.15 on the 480, although I believe this will hurt my overal top HP a lot down to the 800 max range. My tuner also says going smaller on the valley housing will make drive and cyl pressure skyrocket.

My other option is to step back into a per day 65mm 3794 or a 68r in the valley to gain some spook and low end power.

Running a goerend R 2400 stall converter BTW.
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  #44  
Old 02-18-2018, 04:42 PM
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What did you end up with on the valley charger? I got that you went with a SXE 64.5 was it the big turbine and 1.0 housing?
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  #45  
Old 02-18-2018, 07:44 PM
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Final setup is a sxe364.5/74/1.0 with a billet 6 blade 480/96/1.32 t6. Wagler stage 1 cam and head job. 20over bore
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