Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #526  
Old 09-15-2018, 05:48 AM
gmac32 gmac32 is offline
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Looks awesome. You did a great job. I wouldn't worry about putting in the other bolt. I would change the one that is in there to a 10.9 though.
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  #527  
Old 09-15-2018, 05:58 AM
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All that absolutely beautiful work, and you use regular old worm clamps? Cmon man...


Im j/k....
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  #528  
Old 09-15-2018, 08:43 AM
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You need T-bolt clamps minimum
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  #529  
Old 09-15-2018, 09:04 AM
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I have the 10.9 bolts for those two mount holes. Are in the other engines but misplaced the ones for this engine. But nice catch..

For the clamps, those are high $$ double wrap stainless so not to cut into the hose. The screw are zinc coated however. On the 1-1/2 I'll probably switch those to T-bolts since it could see spikes up to 60-70psi on seawater side. Just can't order them till I know exactly what size I need for each location. So these work for mock up.

As to running the seawater though the engine, these will spend their entire life running in saltwater. That would be a short life since heads are aluminum. Everything has to be 316L, bronze, cupronickle, hard anodized, or coated alum. Even that inlet piece for charge coolers gets a special coating on inside to extend the service life. Reason for all the extra SS tubing.
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  #530  
Old 09-15-2018, 09:11 AM
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Best amazon had..

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  #531  
Old 09-15-2018, 09:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmc502 View Post
killer job,,now change out those clamps for 100% stainless ones.
?? why not run the water line under the engine??
Sorry misread that.. Thought you said thru the engine.

There is actually 2 separate sewater lines off the sewater pump. 1" and a 1-1/2" circuit. One to front, other to the back. Plus 2 more lines from electric circ pump tucked in there.

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  #532  
Old 09-15-2018, 10:20 AM
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McMaster-Carr for the win!

https://www.mcmaster.com/t-bolt-hose-clamps
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  #533  
Old 09-19-2018, 09:12 PM
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Sure glad I took pictures of this plumbing mess before sending them out to have gear ratio changed. Luckily I had some pics saved from 2yrs ago, see last.

These cases were originally designed with internal oiling passages, but previous owner experienced some bearing failures and decided to upgrade em.. An aircraft mechanic if ya couldn't tell. But i believe his true issues was spinning 5k rpm load rated bearings 10k rpm with turbines making 1700hp... Took me about 30 seconds on Google to check bearing specs and,, solved it..

So I get these back from drive shop with all the fittings and lines in a bag. Glad that he leak tested em with dye, but guess he forgot to take a picture before diving into em. LoL



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Last edited by kidturbo; 09-19-2018 at 09:20 PM.
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  #534  
Old 09-20-2018, 08:19 PM
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Wrapping up a few remaining jobs before heading to Mark's next Monday. Things are getting really tight on both ends now.

What ya all think of my turbo cooling routing around thermostats?

Because of the limited flow volume with these electric pumps, I decided to push everything thru the engine rather than bypassing some coolant to turbos. This way when thermostats are closed, there is still a 8AN worth of coolant circulation thru the block. About same as the oem waterpump bypass tube. Once opened there should still be decent flow to both turbos. I hope..


Last edited by kidturbo; 09-20-2018 at 08:25 PM.
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  #535  
Old 09-20-2018, 11:19 PM
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Even if it is the same as the oem bypass, aren't you running a water to water heat exchanger? That should provide cooler coolant for the block so even if it is slightly less shouldn't that help compensate?
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  #536  
Old 09-21-2018, 04:21 AM
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I agree, his heat exchangers are more efficient than water to air...
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Last edited by NC-smokinlmm; 09-21-2018 at 04:37 AM.
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  #537  
Old 09-21-2018, 07:16 AM
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Yeah the heat exchangers are pretty big even for hp marine standards. 24" x 6" dia. Only question now is reservoir capacity needed. That's something I hope we can sort out on dyno.

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  #538  
Old 09-21-2018, 08:04 AM
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where are the turbos pulling coolant from? those two -8an lines? if so, thats the same way stock is ran accept they have a thermostat in the upper steel rad hose. My truck is currently ran the same way as yours since i went with a van thermostat housing.

did you put a freeze plug in the coolant bypass under the first thermostat? ive been considering doing that since i now have the heater core running as a bypass.
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  #539  
Old 09-21-2018, 08:17 AM
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Yeah i basically tried to follow the stock layout. But to date still can't tell ya which direction factory fluid flowed..

Does it flow from bypass tube thru turbo to that upper rad hose with thermostat, or does it flow out of that inline thermostat and get sucked back to waterpump??

We used a freeze plug for a Saab I believe. Would have just welded off that bypass port but bridge was already powder coated..

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  #540  
Old 09-21-2018, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004LB7 View Post
Even if it is the same as the oem bypass, aren't you running a water to water heat exchanger? That should provide cooler coolant for the block so even if it is slightly less shouldn't that help compensate?
Meziere told me to not dead head those pumps to factory thermostat. Causes heat on motor and possible premature failure. The one factory thermostat has couple air bleads built in, but not enough to matter. My original plan was feed turbos off rear engine inlets, but that would have siphoned 2x6AN worth of flow off block flow total.

With this setup every drop goes through the engine first. And should be about 35gpm true flow rate, on a 55gpm rated pump. That's 1" dia orifice regulated volume to each bank.

Last edited by kidturbo; 09-21-2018 at 08:39 AM.
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