Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
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Old 06-14-2016, 10:49 AM
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Default Vibrations At Idle

My truck is driving me batshit crazy at the start of this summer.

The Merchant Engine Mounts bring to life vibrations/rattles you never knew your truck had. Soooo short of changing my tune 40 times and driving for a day or two summer will be over, or, tearing into the dash and stuffing foam in there to maybe fix it does anyone have a suggested idle speed (or any other suggestions) that have/has been used with some success between the stock LBZ 680RPM and the stock LMM 720 RPM that might help or any other options in the tune that can be changed to help me keep what little sanity I have left in my life..???

Turning up the radio volume is not option neither is removing the resonator or muffler...

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Old 06-14-2016, 10:55 AM
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I had my truck set to idle at 680, and it drove me nuts, went to 720 same shit.
Set it to 710 and perfect.

If you build your motor for a mild build it will idle smooth as silk with MA mounts,
Lol.
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:16 AM
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Stock engine with 60,000 miles, I'll try 710 RPM to start...
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:39 AM
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Use the DVT tool in the scan tool and adjust the idle around to see if it helps instead of flashing it a bunch of times
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Old 06-14-2016, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harbin_22 View Post
Use the DVT tool in the scan tool and adjust the idle around to see if it helps instead of flashing it a bunch of times
This. And don't be afraid to go a hair below 680 as well.

Though I did find a weird condition where setting the idle RPM to 600 caused it to not complete one of the emissions readiness tests due to stupid hard-coded values in the ECU. This was on a LB7 though.
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Old 06-14-2016, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harbin_22 View Post
Use the DVT tool in the scan tool and adjust the idle around to see if it helps instead of flashing it a bunch of times
I don't use the laptop/V2 combination very often and have never used the DVT tool, could you give me a quick rundown how to.? I have a stand built for it just never use it. I have an old laptop and I installed Windows 7 on it and keep it for truck use only.
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Old 06-14-2016, 04:20 PM
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Open the scan tool, connect to your vehicle with the little green button icon on the left. Once connected, there are tabs along the top of the screen. Look for the one that says DVT. Click that tab and it will open the DVT tool options. Look for the button towards the upper right of that screen that says activate. Click it. There is another tab on the left side of the screen that says "control". Click it. One option will be idle speed. Check the box next to it and slide the bar back and forth to turn it up or down.
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:30 PM
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Can you do this with a locked autocal efi download?
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:39 PM
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Switch to bolted stock mounts if you really need to have the extra holding power in them. Yeah, Im being Capt Obvious.

IMO, 600rpm idle is not a good idea, either.
Boy, did that low an idle rattle the absolute living crap out of my truck when I tried Dave's tune. Went back to my old tuning and no issue.
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WVRigrat05 View Post
Can you do this with a locked autocal efi download?
Don't have a clue how autocal and logging works. It's in the Scan tool software
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBac View Post
Switch to bolted stock mounts if you really need to have the extra holding power in them. Yeah, Im being Capt Obvious.

IMO, 600rpm idle is not a good idea, either.
Boy, did that low an idle rattle the absolute living crap out of my truck when I tried Dave's tune. Went back to my old tuning and no issue.

I installed the Merchant Engine Mounts awhile back to stiffen the front frame section, truck handles much better and the front end donkey dance is much less, Viking shocks maybe someday.....

I will check my problem exhaust system, the front pipe where I have my resonator connection might be hitting the torsion bar cross member, again.... The vibration/noise sounded a lot different this time and changes drastically from summer to winter temperatures (only 2 seasons here, summer/winter) that's why I was considering changing the idle, might be time to break out the rosebud torchhead for the exhaust and change the idle...

Harbin_22, thanks for the simple explanation for the DVT controls...
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:11 PM
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Lol engine mounts don't do squat. Pick up the lower crossmember that Mike L has from me that is a direct replacement therapy and you will see what really makes the bottom end of the frame stronger.

I ran my race truck down to like 550rpm idle. As long as it didn't drop below 15psi hot idle I don't care what rpm it idles at. Quieted the truck down.
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:14 PM
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Drives and rides much different, so what you're saying Brian is the polyurethane bushings in the Merchant mounts do not tie the frame sections together via the engine and makes no difference compared to the stock rubber bouncing blocks in the OEM mounts.? We used to run solid mounts back when BeeLine Dragway was operational and it made a lot of difference.

Never seen a lower crossmember, have a picture of it.?
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:35 PM
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Mike L has them. Forget who made them. Been dang near 10 years.

I bet if someone swapped the mounts overnight when you were eeping you wouldn't have had the same views lol. More like the "ah crap, I busted my as for what gain"
US if your trying to make the frame stronger via trying go reinforce the block, your doing it wrong. That crossmember replaces the one under the oil pan. Believe Tony Burkhart has them too can't be sure.
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Old 06-14-2016, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBac View Post
Switch to bolted stock mounts if you really need to have the extra holding power in them. Yeah, Im being Capt Obvious.

IMO, 600rpm idle is not a good idea, either.
Boy, did that low an idle rattle the absolute living crap out of my truck when I tried Dave's tune. Went back to my old tuning and no issue.
Funny, that idled smooth and quiet for me, but that was on the stock motor mounts in the original application. Different chassis must have different resonance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by c20elephant View Post
Drives and rides much different, so what you're saying Brian is the polyurethane bushings in the Merchant mounts do not tie the frame sections together via the engine and makes no difference compared to the stock rubber bouncing blocks in the OEM mounts.? Never seen a lower crossmember, have a picture of it.?
It might help tie things together, but ask yourself, do you really want your engine to become a stressed member of the frame? What would it do to the block putting stress through it that was never intended to go into the motor? Luckily, I don't think the MA mounts transmit that much force into the motor if/when the frame flexes.
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