LLY: New Cp3 leaking - Page 4

2004LB7 · #46 02-05-2019, 12:45 AM

I would think that closer to the back so when going up hill when you need the fuel more you will have it. if it is up front then all the fuel can run to the back during acceleration or going up hill potentially starving the engine. That is of course only when it is low

I think most put it near the middle though

torqued2dmax · #47 02-05-2019, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankenstien

got some warmer weather, cp3 isn't leaking at the moment.

I picked up one of the new design beans sumps with a return built in, got a custom bracket made for the derale cooler, I think I may actually have time on Thursday to install it all, I have been searching and searching for actual pictures, where are you guys installing these sumps? some say right under the sending unit, but Im going to end up drilling into it, do you modify the bottom? some put it forward and some put it towards the back, anyone have some pics ?

5 months of off and on working on that problem and you got it ! Thank you very much for letting us know what you found ! I am sure it will help many of us out ! I just put a 5/8 draw stick on mine when the fass started popping fuses because the inlet of the sending unit was restricted , but I see that would not prevent the problem that you found , I will keep that in mind ! Thanks again !!!

frankenstien · #48 02-05-2019, 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by torqued2dmax

5 months of off and on working on that problem and you got it ! Thank you very much for letting us know what you found ! I am sure it will help many of us out ! I just put a 5/8 draw stick on mine when the fass started popping fuses because the inlet of the sending unit was restricted , but I see that would not prevent the problem that you found , I will keep that in mind ! Thanks again !!!

we will see if its 100% fixed after Thursday, but again today, no fuel on motor so i have that going for me. Been super busy last few months, I try to keep up on my threads if i post a problem, its very frustrating to search a forum, find your EXACT problem, then find the person never came back and said what it was

torqued2dmax · #49 02-06-2019, 10:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankenstien

we will see if its 100% fixed after Thursday, but again today, no fuel on motor so i have that going for me. Been super busy last few months, I try to keep up on my threads if i post a problem, its very frustrating to search a forum, find your EXACT problem, then find the person never came back and said what it was

I guess we also need to thank S&S for reminding us of the weep hole that starts to seep fuel when there is a restriction in the return system of the cp3 .

frankenstien · #50 02-10-2019, 03:26 PM

Alright, had a busy weekend, but got it all finished up at about 1:30am last night.

I used a Derale 15850 cooler, made a bracket to hold it in the stock location, It hangs a little lower hangs a little lower than I like, but due to how tall the AN fitting is on the inlet from engine side, that's where its at, I may try to trace down some different fittings and pick it up a bit.

I installed a beans sump to bypass the factory stuff all together. I Got the Beans sump with a return built in. I took the 4 bed bolts on the driver side off and loosened the passenger side and tipped the bed up so i could remove the factory sending unit to have a better idea for placement of the sump as i did not want the sending unit to sit on it or to cut through the sending unit.

I ended up with the sump being approx 2-3'' towards the back of the tank from the sending unit self, the sending unit does not sit directly under the hole. I'm glad I took the sending unit out, after i drilled the hole in the tank for the sump, there was a bunch of shavings in the tank, further than your hand can reach to pull them out through the hole.

I used a 3/8 quick connect by 8AN male adapter at the engine and straight to 1/2 hose straight to the cooler via 90 degree 8AN to 1/2'' push lock, out of the cooler with a 45 degree *an to 1/2'' push lock, runs over he top of the tank then down the channel where the rear fuel tank strap is, to the return of the Beans sump.

Holy hell were the push lock fittings that came with the sump a pain in the ass to get the hose. No leaks so far, and the valley is still dry. Only real thing different is now i am pulling down the lift pump pressure when I am on the throttle, which it wasn't doing as much previously

torqued2dmax · #51 02-10-2019, 04:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankenstien

Alright, had a busy weekend, but got it all finished up at about 1:30am last night.

I used a Derale 15850 cooler, made a bracket to hold it in the stock location, It hangs a little lower hangs a little lower than I like, but due to how tall the AN fitting is on the inlet from engine side, that's where its at, I may try to trace down some different fittings and pick it up a bit.

I installed a beans sump to bypass the factory stuff all together. I Got the Beans sump with a return built in. I took the 4 bed bolts on the driver side off and loosened the passenger side and tipped the bed up so i could remove the factory sending unit to have a better idea for placement of the sump as i did not want the sending unit to sit on it or to cut through the sending unit.

I ended up with the sump being approx 2-3'' towards the back of the tank from the sending unit self, the sending unit does not sit directly under the hole. I'm glad I took the sending unit out, after i drilled the hole in the tank for the sump, there was a bunch of shavings in the tank, further than your hand can reach to pull them out through the hole.

I used a 3/8 quick connect by 8AN male adapter at the engine and straight to 1/2 hose straight to the cooler via 90 degree 8AN to 1/2'' push lock, out of the cooler with a 45 degree *an to 1/2'' push lock, runs over he top of the tank then down the channel where the rear fuel tank strap is, to the return of the Beans sump.

Holy hell were the push lock fittings that came with the sump a pain in the ass to get the hose. No leaks so far, and the valley is still dry. Only real thing different is now i am pulling down the lift pump pressure when I am on the throttle, which it wasn't doing as much previously

It is probably pulling down a little now because you do not have that restricted return with your nice new cool fuel system ! GOOD JOB !

NC-smokinlmm · #52 02-10-2019, 05:15 PM

Turn it up a little bit...

You added volume to the feed side with the new larger lines...

frankenstien · #53 02-10-2019, 09:14 PM

my feed side has been the 1/2'' rubber since i initially replaced the cp3, this round i only worked with the return lines.

I am waiting to turn it up, i would like to be 100% its not going to leak again, it pulls down to about 5-6psi from 9

2004LB7 · #54 02-10-2019, 11:38 PM

If you are still at positive pressure to the cp3 and your actual rail pressure is good I wouldn't worry about it

frankenstien · #55 04-15-2019, 04:19 PM

well been about 2 months now, cp3 is still not leaking, roads have been dry for a while, it pulls down to about 3-4 under a very hard pull, haven't had time to swap back in the other cp3, hopefully soon.

frankenstien · #56 05-13-2019, 10:04 PM

Got the time to swap my LBZ sportsman Cp3, have about 50 miles on it, running 11.5psi at idle, no leaks, been romping on it a bit, all appears to be good in the leak area.

the only issue is sometime when i start it, not when when its the first start of the day, but after its been sitting hot for a bit, when it starts, it fires up quick like usual, but then it drops rpm, sound like its going to die, then ramps back up to idle.

Not sure what the deal there is, I loaded my modified tune that has the adjustment for the lbz fpr. I was thinking maybe it needs a check valve in the supply line? not sure what exactly to look at.