Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #1  
Old 08-01-2018, 03:54 PM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Default Rear main tool

Iíll be doing a trans swap and clutch install on my LB7 next week.

I plan to do the rear main and slave while Iím there.

Is anyone willing to loan me the tool? I can give a deposit for it.

Also, any other tips and tricks while Iím at it?
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2002 LB7/ZF6 CCSB Sierra 4x4
340k miles
Stock...for now

Plans:
KP D60 front, ORD leafs front/rear, Twin Stick NP205, 4.56 gearing locked rear, PSC steering/hydro assist , 37"s on H1 wheels, Titan or Aerotank replacement

SAC45% Injectors, SB SD clutch, Kennedy pump and filter heads, S&B intake, ProFab up/down pipe, manifolds, Mild Tune from Rob
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  #2  
Old 08-01-2018, 04:09 PM
Blackmax123 Blackmax123 is offline
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Where are you located?

I have the merchant automotive version.
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2013 Chevrolet 3500hd duramax loaded ltz cc/lb dually (tow pig)- built motor by me, exergy 10mm cp3 swap, danville 2.5 stg1.5 charger, 5" afe exhaust, wehrli charge piping and egr delete,wehrli stainless downpipe and danville tuned. 5" zone lift, 315/70r17. 2" hub centric front spacers 3" hubcentric rear spacers between duals.

2008 Chevrolet 3500hd duramax ltz cc/lb dually (homemade handgrenade) built motor by me, Built tranny by me, big exergy pump and s&s over it, large exergy lbz injectors, ac delete, custom Danville s400 true 2.5 charger, roll pan, 8" single stack, custom hitch and a few more pulling goodies.

2015 Vw passat tdi sel premium blacked out(old lady's ride)

2014 chevrolet cruze diesel work car.

Special thanks to Danville Performace & Limitless Diesel
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  #3  
Old 08-01-2018, 05:34 PM
TheBac's Avatar
TheBac TheBac is offline
Why do I keep doing this?


 
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Moved to Tool Crib.


Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 08-01-2018, 05:37 PM
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clrussell clrussell is offline
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If it’s not leaking leave it alone. You’re liable to make it worse
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03 reg cab. Low and slow

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  #5  
Old 08-02-2018, 08:00 AM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackmax123 View Post
Where are you located?

I have the merchant automotive version.
I am in Southern California
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBac View Post
Moved to Tool Crib.


Good luck.
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by clrussell View Post
If itís not leaking leave it alone. Youíre liable to make it worse
I would be fine with that, Iíll try and look closer when Iím in there to see if itís leaking. I would just hate for it to start leaking shortly after I was in there.

Whatís the opportunity to make it worse? I think I remember reading about thereís a cover plate on the rear thatís a pain to line up?
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2002 LB7/ZF6 CCSB Sierra 4x4
340k miles
Stock...for now

Plans:
KP D60 front, ORD leafs front/rear, Twin Stick NP205, 4.56 gearing locked rear, PSC steering/hydro assist , 37"s on H1 wheels, Titan or Aerotank replacement

SAC45% Injectors, SB SD clutch, Kennedy pump and filter heads, S&B intake, ProFab up/down pipe, manifolds, Mild Tune from Rob
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  #6  
Old 08-02-2018, 09:39 AM
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BlkMax BlkMax is offline
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Keep in mind, the flexplate can't just be popped off to take a close look at the rear main seal without buying new torque to yield bolts or some ARP's. To get either the stockers or the ARP's tight will require the flexplate holding tool which goes through the starter hole and indexes in the teeth to hold the flexplate from rotating.



I can't remember the torque value on my ARP's, but I do remember hanging on the torque wrench when I put on my SoCal flex plate.
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Black Max, the fun truck:
'03 2500 4x4 CC/LB
Bent Rods, now under construction, its time to put all the saved up parts in....
Special thanks to Pat & Kat McSwain, MikeL, Guy, Trent, and others from here-thank you for the great ideas!
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  #7  
Old 08-02-2018, 09:57 AM
clrussell's Avatar
clrussell clrussell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fl0w3n View Post
I am in Southern California

Thanks!

I would be fine with that, Iíll try and look closer when Iím in there to see if itís leaking. I would just hate for it to start leaking shortly after I was in there.

Whatís the opportunity to make it worse? I think I remember reading about thereís a cover plate on the rear thatís a pain to line up?
50/50 chance it leaks worse after youíre done if you donít know what youíre doing. I know what Iím doing and donít change them unless itís leaking bad.
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03 reg cab. Low and slow

07 crew long classic- stolen
.
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  #8  
Old 08-02-2018, 10:21 AM
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Chevy1925 Chevy1925 is offline
don't know sh!t about IFS

 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Phoenix Az
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkMax View Post
Keep in mind, the flexplate can't just be popped off to take a close look at the rear main seal without buying new torque to yield bolts or some ARP's. To get either the stockers or the ARP's tight will require the flexplate holding tool which goes through the starter hole and indexes in the teeth to hold the flexplate from rotating.



I can't remember the torque value on my ARP's, but I do remember hanging on the torque wrench when I put on my SoCal flex plate.
you can retorque the stock flex plate bolts 3-4 times before they no long hold the correct torque. Guy did testing on them a few years back with main bolts, flex plate bolts and the stock balancer bolt. certainly aint a bad idea to replace them if you wanted to.
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Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LB7, LLY, LBZ, LMM, LML, L5P 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
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  #9  
Old 08-02-2018, 11:51 AM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Posts: 48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlkMax View Post
Keep in mind, the flexplate can't just be popped off to take a close look at the rear main seal without buying new torque to yield bolts or some ARP's. To get either the stockers or the ARP's tight will require the flexplate holding tool which goes through the starter hole and indexes in the teeth to hold the flexplate from rotating.



I can't remember the torque value on my ARP's, but I do remember hanging on the torque wrench when I put on my SoCal flex plate.
Wonít I be changing out the flex plate anyways with the southbend kit I get?
Quote:
Originally Posted by clrussell View Post
50/50 chance it leaks worse after youíre done if you donít know what youíre doing. I know what Iím doing and donít change them unless itís leaking bad.
Iím all good for not risking it

The truck has been covered in oil from some other issues but Iíll take a closer peak at the rear main like I said. I donít recall it seeming like it was an issue.
I havenít owned it very long.
__________________
2002 LB7/ZF6 CCSB Sierra 4x4
340k miles
Stock...for now

Plans:
KP D60 front, ORD leafs front/rear, Twin Stick NP205, 4.56 gearing locked rear, PSC steering/hydro assist , 37"s on H1 wheels, Titan or Aerotank replacement

SAC45% Injectors, SB SD clutch, Kennedy pump and filter heads, S&B intake, ProFab up/down pipe, manifolds, Mild Tune from Rob
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  #10  
Old 08-02-2018, 11:54 AM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Posts: 48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
you can retorque the stock flex plate bolts 3-4 times before they no long hold the correct torque. Guy did testing on them a few years back with main bolts, flex plate bolts and the stock balancer bolt. certainly aint a bad idea to replace them if you wanted to.
Iím the type of guy that likes to do it right to the best of my ability, Iíll typically use only AC Delco unless thereís significant proof that an aftermarket part is superior.

For the $70 or whatever the price is on the bolts, Iíd replace them. Iím already into the trans and clutch for nearly $4500. Not going to skimp on a few bolts.
__________________
2002 LB7/ZF6 CCSB Sierra 4x4
340k miles
Stock...for now

Plans:
KP D60 front, ORD leafs front/rear, Twin Stick NP205, 4.56 gearing locked rear, PSC steering/hydro assist , 37"s on H1 wheels, Titan or Aerotank replacement

SAC45% Injectors, SB SD clutch, Kennedy pump and filter heads, S&B intake, ProFab up/down pipe, manifolds, Mild Tune from Rob
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 08-06-2018, 02:32 PM
kaylabryn kaylabryn is offline
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Join Date: May 2012
Location: Mesa, AZ
Posts: 17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
you can retorque the stock flex plate bolts 3-4 times before they no long hold the correct torque. Guy did testing on them a few years back with main bolts, flex plate bolts and the stock balancer bolt. certainly aint a bad idea to replace them if you wanted to.
I do know when I did mine I could not get the last 60deg turn on it, it did not matter how big a cheater I got(4') on 3/4" drive breaker bar. This was before mine brain processed the torque to yield and bought new ones. The new ones I got the last 60 deg no problem. Mine could have been re-torqued or over torqued prior to me(got the truck with 200K on the clock).

Mike
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  #12  
Old 08-06-2018, 03:11 PM
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Chevy1925 Chevy1925 is offline
don't know sh!t about IFS

 
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Location: Phoenix Az
Posts: 14,835

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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaylabryn View Post
I do know when I did mine I could not get the last 60deg turn on it, it did not matter how big a cheater I got(4') on 3/4" drive breaker bar. This was before mine brain processed the torque to yield and bought new ones. The new ones I got the last 60 deg no problem. Mine could have been re-torqued or over torqued prior to me(got the truck with 200K on the clock).

Mike
interesting, bolt must have bottomed out in the bolt hole.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LB7, LLY, LBZ, LMM, LML, L5P 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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