Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 04-19-2018, 08:18 PM
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Yeah, dont we all know that about the costs! Damn "gourmet" engines.

Ive read so many posts from you on PT.com its not funny. You really know your stuff in the LS world. You'll have no problem learning this. Just takes some time.

If you're in Cali and dont have a machine shop that you can trust with a Dmax, then Guy is your best bet.
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  #32  
Old 04-19-2018, 11:13 PM
1FastBrick 1FastBrick is offline
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Originally Posted by TheBac View Post
Yeah, dont we all know that about the costs! Damn "gourmet" engines.

Ive read so many posts from you on PT.com its not funny. You really know your stuff in the LS world. You'll have no problem learning this. Just takes some time.

If you're in Cali and dont have a machine shop that you can trust with a Dmax, then Guy is your best bet.
Yup, I am still on PT.net. As you probably know, some of my more informative posts are the most copied and regurgitated on the net.

The Diesel world is so different. It's like everything is on lock down. I have a good Idea of what I would like to do and accomplish with my truck. I had a DSP5 tune on my truck for a little bit and besides running out of fuel on the top end it seems like fun. But I couldn't control what the trans was doing and after talking with Mike, I had it flashed back to stock. I had reason to believe it may have had a trace of a hand held on it previously. I know not all the tables are exposed in EFI live.

So in regards to the Engine Build Its sounds like I am on the right track with the basic stage 1. When I was getting info on the stage 2, Its very similar but the cam is larger and requires Valve reliefs in the piston. I believe he said it moves the whole powerband up 500 RPM and the heads flow more air too obviously. But I don't want to sacrifice any low end power or need to run a loose converter. I know the turbo choice will also affect how that feels and works.
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  #33  
Old 04-20-2018, 03:15 AM
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If i were you, i would look at Waglers forged rods and skip the head porting. Stock heads with springs and good pistons on those rods. Whatever you want to do with the crank is up to you, justifiable either way
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  #34  
Old 04-20-2018, 04:51 AM
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Just throw some lb7 pistons in it with rods if your just after 650. I ran my LMM with a 68 for years at the 650 level on a stock motor and I beat on it badly. You are overbuilding it for no reason if your stopping around the 650 mark...
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  #35  
Old 04-20-2018, 05:02 AM
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Based on his past LS builds, he wont stop at 650.
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"BBT" -- 2003 GMC CC/SB 4x4 12.14@111.15
"Flyin' Brick" -- 1999 Chevy 1500 RC/SB 2wd -- stalled out, no motivation
"The Cruzer" -- 2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel -- the fun little DD
"The Bigger Boat" -- 2011 Workhorse P700 - 6.0LS/Allison - what I drive at work


Two wrongs dont make a right, but three rights do make a left.

Reality is a matter of perspective.

This forum isn't for the weak of heart.....or wallet.

"Lets build a race car they said. Itll be fun they said. I don't know who "they" are.........but they need a good punch in the face!" -- mufflerguy (yb)
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  #36  
Old 04-20-2018, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBac View Post
Based on his past LS builds, he wont stop at 650.
I don't know him at all but exactly. Forged waglers, Motorsports cast, all studs, and decide on crank. Motorsports cast pistons will hold up to four digits reliably. Take a lot to outgrow that setup.

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  #37  
Old 04-20-2018, 10:02 AM
1FastBrick 1FastBrick is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NC-smokinlmm View Post
Just throw some lb7 pistons in it with rods if your just after 650. I ran my LMM with a 68 for years at the 650 level on a stock motor and I beat on it badly. You are overbuilding it for no reason if your stopping around the 650 mark...
I don't see it that way. You never know. I may not like it and feel it needs a larger cam or bigger charger.

Although I can get an LB7/LLY short block for cheap...

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBac View Post
Based on his past LS builds, he wont stop at 650.
Do we ever really stop???

I really want to maintain the drive ability. I bought it to make sure I could pull a trailer. I do have a daily driver truck. But I occasionally switch it up and drive the diesel.

I would like to have minimal to no issues with it. I don't want to be on borrowed time or have to send the injectors out every so often. I don't want it to be hassey at idle or have the other issues that come with really large injectors. I feel I am I'm reasonable in my expectations. Maybe it doesn't need carrillos, I am sure the Wagler as cast rods would do for my goals.

I am sure you guys have seen this article before but If you look at Doug Barnes 05 LLY he basically has a stage 1 package and that's some pretty respectable power at the wheels. Brian Howards 06 Is more of a stage 2 http://www.dieselarmy.com/engine-tec...amax-dyno-day/

I really don't think I need to exceed say 650 HP and 1000 Lb FT of torque at the wheels. That's probably almost 800 HP at the crank.

Last edited by 1FastBrick; 04-20-2018 at 10:07 AM.
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  #38  
Old 04-20-2018, 10:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
when you talk to Guy or Alanzo, ask about the narrowed journal crank from callies. If i was putting an upgraded crank in a truck, it would be that crank but the rods will require narrowing to fit. I say this because Callies makes a crank that is just like stock as well. narrowing the journal seems to have stopped the broken crank issue and is not a bandaid. There is a reason GM put .200 larger diameter rod journals on the crank in the L5P, it was done to stop this issue.
Socal used a Bryant NRJ crank in mine, they seem to prefer it over anything else. I believe the Bryant crank has the narrowest journals out of anything
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  #39  
Old 04-20-2018, 01:09 PM
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The guys at SoCal are happy to do the machine work for your engine if you want to assemble it yourself. FYI, they also have a cheaper house-brand rod available that is very close in price to the "as forged" rod Wagler sells. It is a forged I-beam rod like Wagler's, but unlike Wagler's, it is fully machined. I couldn't find it on their website, but if you call and talk to Gabe or Lorenzo, I'm sure they can give you all the info.
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  #40  
Old 04-20-2018, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
The guys at SoCal are happy to do the machine work for your engine if you want to assemble it yourself. FYI, they also have a cheaper house-brand rod available that is very close in price to the "as forged" rod Wagler sells. It is a forged I-beam rod like Wagler's, but unlike Wagler's, it is fully machined. I couldn't find it on their website, but if you call and talk to Gabe or Lorenzo, I'm sure they can give you all the info.
Oh, Thanks for the Heads up! I think gabe is the one I spoke to and I am still waiting for a call back from Lorenzo. I am sure he is busy though.
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  #41  
Old 04-20-2018, 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 1FastBrick View Post
I have looked at them and a few others. There all in the same ballpark price wise. I am not opposed to looking at any legit companies. The more recommendations the better.



I considered building it myself as I am more than capable. But I am not sure I would let my machine shop do the machining. It's not that they couldn't, But they don't specialize in the diesel stuff and I know they don't have a Dmax Torque Plate.


Socals stage 1 is 16.5k

Waglers entry is 10k.

I donít consider that to be the same ballpark.


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  #42  
Old 04-20-2018, 07:00 PM
1FastBrick 1FastBrick is offline
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Originally Posted by Awenta View Post
Socals stage 1 is 16.5k

Waglers entry is 10k.

I donít consider that to be the same ballpark.


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Waglers 10K is just the short block. Still needs heads, studs, gaskets...

Socals 16.5K Is a complete long block.
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  #43  
Old 04-20-2018, 07:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1FastBrick View Post
Waglers 10K is just the short block. Still needs heads, studs, gaskets...



Socals 16.5K Is a complete long block.


Forgot about the heads part. But studs are cheap and you already have heads. Just need pushrods and springs. And waglers comes with a forged crank.


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  #44  
Old 04-20-2018, 09:56 PM
1FastBrick 1FastBrick is offline
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Heads still need to be gone through though... and I don't have all the parts like the bridges and rockers. I also don't have the covers for the engine either. That little stuff adds up fast.
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  #45  
Old 04-21-2018, 04:01 AM
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That stuff is easy....I cant count the number of for sale threads here Ive seen for things like that. You might be able to at least swing a deal with someone here.
Shoot, jpowell probably has everything you're looking for.

But yes, it does add up. Quickly.
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"BBT" -- 2003 GMC CC/SB 4x4 12.14@111.15
"Flyin' Brick" -- 1999 Chevy 1500 RC/SB 2wd -- stalled out, no motivation
"The Cruzer" -- 2014 Chevy Cruze Diesel -- the fun little DD
"The Bigger Boat" -- 2011 Workhorse P700 - 6.0LS/Allison - what I drive at work


Two wrongs dont make a right, but three rights do make a left.

Reality is a matter of perspective.

This forum isn't for the weak of heart.....or wallet.

"Lets build a race car they said. Itll be fun they said. I don't know who "they" are.........but they need a good punch in the face!" -- mufflerguy (yb)
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