Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #16  
Old 11-08-2018, 12:52 PM
1FastBrick 1FastBrick is offline
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Originally Posted by Mike L. View Post
I didn't yell. lol
Ok, A stern warning on my bone headedness of running a Tune from an unknown tuner. Lol

Either way the issue was self induced on my end and I did not take it to heart.

Last edited by 1FastBrick; 11-08-2018 at 01:35 PM. Reason: definitely my fault
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  #17  
Old 11-09-2018, 12:05 AM
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If the transfer case is in bad enough shape, it can cause the output speed sensor to read incorrectly. That can cause the transmission to shift strangely, but shouldn't cause higher temps.

With how heavy you use the truck, I would look into at least a mild build on the transmission. Get a good converter (MikeL can recommend one for your turbo & use case), updated clutches, and the valve body mods to remove the pressure knockdown in lockup. I would also consider a bigger transmission cooler while it is down. MikeL used to sell a kit that is very well regarded, not sure if he still does. I pieced one together with an aftermarket oil cooler from Jegs, and it has served me well.

Just make sure you use large enough lines or you will actually make temps worse, as the transmission will bypass the cooler if it has too much restriction, resulting in NO cooling. And don't bypass the cooler in the radiator, you just replace the stock aux cooler with a larger one. You absolutely need the cooler in the radiator, as it sucks down a massive amount of heat.

Depending on where you are in the US, there are a handful of good transmission shops that will put together a solid Allison build. MikeL is the goto for the southwest, and we can get you recommendations for other regions.
Thanks bud, Im in Idaho
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  #18  
Old 11-09-2018, 12:10 AM
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If you keep losing fluid at the back of the tcase yoke, you need to inspect the driveshaft yoke. Its a common problem to get grooved from the seal and leak no matter what seal you put in the t case.
Replaced with a brand new driveshaft last year this time, for I thought the same thing and my driveshaft had thrown some weights and needed rebalanced... Since the truck is leveled and lifted about 3 inches, I had one custom made with new GM yoke... But I will double check that again.
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AFE Intake/S&B Turbo Inlet Elbow
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  #19  
Old 11-09-2018, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by raceghost View Post
Thanks bud, Im in Idaho
What part of Idaho?
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  #20  
Old 11-11-2018, 11:30 PM
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Poky
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Stock Garrett Turbo/2007 Intercooler
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MBRP 3" Downpipe/4" Straight Exhaust w/Aero Muffler
CP3 Industrial Injection BagoParts/FASS 150 LP w/Sump
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RedHead SGB/Cognito A-Arms/Idler & Pitman Braces/FabTech Tie Rods
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  #21  
Old 11-13-2018, 12:11 PM
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Bump

For my application should I pay the extra money for the Billet Shafts
I can get an Input, and Output, and a Main?

Considering price of build, which one of the three is most applicable?

Thanks in advance
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2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD LLY SLT CCSB EFI Live/BDGTCLT w/Sensor Dock
Stock Garrett Turbo/2007 Intercooler
AFE Intake/S&B Turbo Inlet Elbow
MBRP 3" Downpipe/4" Straight Exhaust w/Aero Muffler
CP3 Industrial Injection BagoParts/FASS 150 LP w/Sump
SuperTank 52G Tank w/04 Top Half/05 Bottom half Sending unit
RedHead SGB/Cognito A-Arms/Idler & Pitman Braces/FabTech Tie Rods
ProComp Level Keys/Tuff Country Add-A-Leaf
Hellwig HD Front/Rear Sway Bars/SSM 1" Endlinks
FOX 2.0 Shocks/Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags
285/75/16 Nitto Trail Grapplers
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  #22  
Old 11-13-2018, 04:14 PM
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DAVe3283 DAVe3283 is offline
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I'm at 660+ HP to the tires and on all stock shafts. You'll break the P2 planet before a shaft it seems, since I ate one of those, and the C2 hub. It seems your goal is below my power level (if I recall correctly), so shafts would be a waste of money IMO.
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  #23  
Old 11-13-2018, 08:27 PM
sneaky98gt sneaky98gt is offline
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I'm literally out in the garage right now assembling my transmission, haha.



I only went with a billet input for one reason: so that it doesn't snap off inside the converter, and thus pissing $1800 into the wind. My brother lost a converter with a broken input on his 4R100. I've heard of it happening with the Allisons as well.


So I just went with it for peace of mind. Doesn't sound likely that you'll break any of the shafts under 600 rwhp, but it was worth the extra $600 to me to know I won't take out a part that costs 3x as much if it does break.
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  #24  
Old 11-14-2018, 04:31 PM
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Quote:
I'm at 660+ HP to the tires and on all stock shafts. You'll break the P2 planet before a shaft it seems, since I ate one of those, and the C2 hub. It seems your goal is below my power level (if I recall correctly), so shafts would be a waste of money IMO.
My goal outside of work related would be around your numbers... What are you pushing torque wise?

Quote:
So I just went with it for peace of mind. Doesn't sound likely that you'll break any of the shafts under 600 rwhp, but it was worth the extra $600 to me to know I won't take out a part that costs 3x as much if it does break.
I was thinking the same thing...
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2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD LLY SLT CCSB EFI Live/BDGTCLT w/Sensor Dock
Stock Garrett Turbo/2007 Intercooler
AFE Intake/S&B Turbo Inlet Elbow
MBRP 3" Downpipe/4" Straight Exhaust w/Aero Muffler
CP3 Industrial Injection BagoParts/FASS 150 LP w/Sump
SuperTank 52G Tank w/04 Top Half/05 Bottom half Sending unit
RedHead SGB/Cognito A-Arms/Idler & Pitman Braces/FabTech Tie Rods
ProComp Level Keys/Tuff Country Add-A-Leaf
Hellwig HD Front/Rear Sway Bars/SSM 1" Endlinks
FOX 2.0 Shocks/Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags
285/75/16 Nitto Trail Grapplers
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  #25  
Old 11-14-2018, 05:44 PM
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Do the C2 hub. You won't need shafts. If the Allison input shaft breaks it is no problem popping out the broken piece. I've done it many times. No damage occurs to the converter.
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  #26  
Old 11-14-2018, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Do the C2 hub.
Enlightenment please? Is this not a standard upgrade in a rebuild or... I feel stupid not knowing what to ask for?
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2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD LLY SLT CCSB EFI Live/BDGTCLT w/Sensor Dock
Stock Garrett Turbo/2007 Intercooler
AFE Intake/S&B Turbo Inlet Elbow
MBRP 3" Downpipe/4" Straight Exhaust w/Aero Muffler
CP3 Industrial Injection BagoParts/FASS 150 LP w/Sump
SuperTank 52G Tank w/04 Top Half/05 Bottom half Sending unit
RedHead SGB/Cognito A-Arms/Idler & Pitman Braces/FabTech Tie Rods
ProComp Level Keys/Tuff Country Add-A-Leaf
Hellwig HD Front/Rear Sway Bars/SSM 1" Endlinks
FOX 2.0 Shocks/Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags
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  #27  
Old 11-14-2018, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raceghost View Post
Enlightenment please? Is this not a standard upgrade in a rebuild or... I feel stupid not knowing what to ask for?
Doing the C2 billet hub protects you against bad tuning.
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  #28  
Old 11-14-2018, 10:07 PM
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Ok thanks, will do.
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2005 GMC Sierra 2500HD LLY SLT CCSB EFI Live/BDGTCLT w/Sensor Dock
Stock Garrett Turbo/2007 Intercooler
AFE Intake/S&B Turbo Inlet Elbow
MBRP 3" Downpipe/4" Straight Exhaust w/Aero Muffler
CP3 Industrial Injection BagoParts/FASS 150 LP w/Sump
SuperTank 52G Tank w/04 Top Half/05 Bottom half Sending unit
RedHead SGB/Cognito A-Arms/Idler & Pitman Braces/FabTech Tie Rods
ProComp Level Keys/Tuff Country Add-A-Leaf
Hellwig HD Front/Rear Sway Bars/SSM 1" Endlinks
FOX 2.0 Shocks/Firestone Ride Rite Air Bags
285/75/16 Nitto Trail Grapplers
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  #29  
Old 11-15-2018, 06:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike L. View Post
Doing the C2 billet hub protects you against bad tuning.
And/or broken trim springs...
Quote:
Originally Posted by raceghost View Post
My goal outside of work related would be around your numbers... What are you pushing torque wise?
Relatively low, right under 1,000 lb-ft. I spin the motor a bit higher RPM than stock.
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  #30  
Old 11-15-2018, 07:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAVe3283 View Post
And/or broken trim springs...

Relatively low, right under 1,000 lb-ft. I spin the motor a bit higher RPM than stock.
My trim springs don't break.
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