Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #16  
Old 03-23-2020, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Burn Down View Post
The lly-lmm injector removal tool is worthless imop. They either come out by hand or are seized in place with carbon and soot. I broke my removal tool and shit canned it. Best tool for stuck injectors is a slide hammer with a universal socket and a injector nut welded together or a lug nut. I guess the obs trucks lug thread is the same as the injectors but I havenít verified it.
Iíve had the opposite reaction. Iíve had nothing but good luck from mine.
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  #17  
Old 03-23-2020, 01:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Burn Down View Post
The lly-lmm injector removal tool is worthless imop. They either come out by hand or are seized in place with carbon and soot. I broke my removal tool and shit canned it. Best tool for stuck injectors is a slide hammer with a universal socket and a injector nut welded together or a lug nut. I guess the obs trucks lug thread is the same as the injectors but I havenít verified it.
same here. best tool i made was that slide hammer setup.
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Old 03-23-2020, 01:48 PM
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14x1.5 lug nut threads right on the feed of a lly for sure. Had to make the slide hammer setup on the last one I did.

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  #19  
Old 03-30-2020, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by ikeG View Post
Look something like this? Lol

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So turns out 2 rods were bent.... Cylinder 5 is very obvious while cylinder 4 is a little more difficult to see but does have a slight tweak.

As for replacement rods I am wondering which route to go, I don't plan on turning it up anymore than it is (700hp area). I found a good used set of LBZ rods which sound like they were in a stock truck with 160k on it when removed. Lincoln diesel offers the LML rods for a pretty good price... Does anyone know the actual differences between these two rods?

Also the pistons in my engine look really good, cylinder 5 piston did contact the crank just barely. Should I be concerned about reusing them with new rings?
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2004.5 LLY CCSB Suncoast G-MAX 5 with Precision converter, Energy trans mount, AAM Torsen carrier, DHD transfer case brace, Big Chevy Hitch Trac bars, MBRP down pipe to straight 5 inch diamond eye to 7 inch MBRP tip, 4 inch bills custom intake with S&B oiled filter, S&B intake horn, AD II 165, Ported fuel rail fittings, DRP fuel rail plug, DRP egr delete, LB7 passenger side up-pipe, DRP PCV re-route, Edge CS monitor with EGT probe, Moog Problem solver pitman and idler arm, Cognito PISK, Fab-tech tie rods

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  #20  
Old 03-30-2020, 09:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04LB7yz View Post
So turns out 2 rods were bent.... Cylinder 5 is very obvious while cylinder 4 is a little more difficult to see but does have a slight tweak.

As for replacement rods I am wondering which route to go, I don't plan on turning it up anymore than it is (700hp area). I found a good used set of LBZ rods which sound like they were in a stock truck with 160k on it when removed. Lincoln diesel offers the LML rods for a pretty good price... Does anyone know the actual differences between these two rods?

Also the pistons in my engine look really good, cylinder 5 piston did contact the crank just barely. Should I be concerned about reusing them with new rings?
IMO if you're going to rebuild it I would highly recommend a SoCal budget rod. While they're more expensive, you definitely get some added reassurance. If the pistons aren't in bad shape (high PTW clearance) then you can likely reuse them unless they are obliterated by the crank.
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Call or Text: 906-284-0962
Providing a "one-stop-shop" for all of your automotive needs!

Current Rides:
1) Toy: 2005 LLY ECSB, Leather, Sunroof
-1340hp/2200ft-lbs @ ATS Diesel (06/04/19)
-Built Motor, Forced Inductions Billet ETR Gen 4 S480/96/1.10 T6 w/V2 Race Cover, F1 Diesel 275% Inj, Exergy 14mm Street Pump/LBZ CP3, Goerend AR Converter, Billet Trans, Fuelab Supply Pump/Reg, RCD & Beans Sumps, Front E-Locker, TrueTrac, Yukon 4340 Rear Shafts, Traction Bars, DHD Center Link Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support, Banks iDash 1.8 Monitoring System
2) DD/Tow Rig: 2002 LB7 CCSB, Leather, Loaded
-Cast S475/96/1.10 T6 Over Stock IHI, FASS 150,4" Exhaust, RCD Sump, PPE Sleeves, DHD Centerlink Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support, "Budget" Motor, Big Oil Cooling, Banks iDash 1.8 Monitoring System
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  #21  
Old 03-30-2020, 10:03 AM
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cyl 5 for sure should have had the piston kiss the crank. no broke bits or cracks from it? mine broke a piece off.

the actual difference has never been proven. its been said about 5-10% improvement over LBZ/LMM but ive seen both make the same power with no issue.
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2002 LB7, LLY, LBZ, LMM, LML, L5P 2500HD CC/LB dmax/6sp alli "The Limo"

2020 L5P 2500HD CC/LB dmax/10sp alli "The New Limo" staying stock........ish

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  #22  
Old 03-30-2020, 11:51 AM
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theres a very small "smear" of aluminum on the edge of the piston. It is not near as bad as IKEG's photo. I can get pictures later. I think I am going to pick up the used set of LBZ rods and balance the assembly.

Is it worth deliping my pistons? Should I be concerned with the higher 17.5:1 compression ratio with my LLY pistons? I can get a new set of loaded MAHLE pistons for $800 but I believe these are factory replacement pistons that would still be at that 17.5:1?
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  #23  
Old 03-30-2020, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04LB7yz View Post
theres a very small "smear" of aluminum on the edge of the piston. It is not near as bad as IKEG's photo. I can get pictures later. I think I am going to pick up the used set of LBZ rods and balance the assembly.

Is it worth deliping my pistons? Should I be concerned with the higher 17.5:1 compression ratio with my LLY pistons? I can get a new set of loaded MAHLE pistons for $800 but I believe these are factory replacement pistons that would still be at that 17.5:1?
The mahle factory replacement piston will be the same compression ratio as factory. You would have to machine them or step up to the motorsport piston to drop compression ratio.
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K&D Service Inc
Call or Text: 906-284-0962
Providing a "one-stop-shop" for all of your automotive needs!

Current Rides:
1) Toy: 2005 LLY ECSB, Leather, Sunroof
-1340hp/2200ft-lbs @ ATS Diesel (06/04/19)
-Built Motor, Forced Inductions Billet ETR Gen 4 S480/96/1.10 T6 w/V2 Race Cover, F1 Diesel 275% Inj, Exergy 14mm Street Pump/LBZ CP3, Goerend AR Converter, Billet Trans, Fuelab Supply Pump/Reg, RCD & Beans Sumps, Front E-Locker, TrueTrac, Yukon 4340 Rear Shafts, Traction Bars, DHD Center Link Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support, Banks iDash 1.8 Monitoring System
2) DD/Tow Rig: 2002 LB7 CCSB, Leather, Loaded
-Cast S475/96/1.10 T6 Over Stock IHI, FASS 150,4" Exhaust, RCD Sump, PPE Sleeves, DHD Centerlink Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support, "Budget" Motor, Big Oil Cooling, Banks iDash 1.8 Monitoring System
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  #24  
Old 03-30-2020, 12:15 PM
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Are the factory LLY pistons MAHLE? If I was to replace the one piston that hit the crank, would the MAHLE factory replacement be the answer?
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2004.5 LLY CCSB Suncoast G-MAX 5 with Precision converter, Energy trans mount, AAM Torsen carrier, DHD transfer case brace, Big Chevy Hitch Trac bars, MBRP down pipe to straight 5 inch diamond eye to 7 inch MBRP tip, 4 inch bills custom intake with S&B oiled filter, S&B intake horn, AD II 165, Ported fuel rail fittings, DRP fuel rail plug, DRP egr delete, LB7 passenger side up-pipe, DRP PCV re-route, Edge CS monitor with EGT probe, Moog Problem solver pitman and idler arm, Cognito PISK, Fab-tech tie rods

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  #25  
Old 03-30-2020, 12:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04LB7yz View Post
theres a very small "smear" of aluminum on the edge of the piston. It is not near as bad as IKEG's photo. I can get pictures later. I think I am going to pick up the used set of LBZ rods and balance the assembly.

Is it worth deliping my pistons? Should I be concerned with the higher 17.5:1 compression ratio with my LLY pistons? I can get a new set of loaded MAHLE pistons for $800 but I believe these are factory replacement pistons that would still be at that 17.5:1?
yes, very much worth delipping.

something you need to consider is piston to wall clearance. If you stick with the pistons you have and have the block honed, your piston to wall clearance will probably be in the .004-5 range (thats typically where ive seen them). you open this up and you will burn more oil than normal as well as might get some rattling or tapping noises when cold from piston slap.

new pistons will shrink that up about .001-2ish (closer to 1 be my guess) but cast is better off around .0015-.002 as they dont really grow with heat like forged.

if you are going to buy new pistons, i would say to have the block bored .020 or .040 over and get your clearances back. a bore and hone vs just a hone is not much more.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 04LB7yz View Post
Are the factory LLY pistons MAHLE? If I was to replace the one piston that hit the crank, would the MAHLE factory replacement be the answer?
i know 06-10 are, i dont know if 01-05 are.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

2002 LB7, LLY, LBZ, LMM, LML, L5P 2500HD CC/LB dmax/6sp alli "The Limo"

2020 L5P 2500HD CC/LB dmax/10sp alli "The New Limo" staying stock........ish

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  #26  
Old 03-30-2020, 09:02 PM
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I would not use a set of stock rods in the rebuild, no matter the model. Spend the money once, or spend more money later to rebuild it again...
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Old 03-31-2020, 08:15 AM
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I do understand that putting a quality set of aftermarket rods is the correct thing to do.. but I really have no desire to put 5-7k into a truck with 220k that may be worth 12k. It had a good run and is on the downward slope. All of the work is being done myself and while I value my time, it is not the end of the world. Machine time is basically free as my father runs a high performance engine machine shop. He has done a few of these before but specializes in gas engines. All I am trying to do is be as informed as possible in order to make the best decision I can on getting this thing back up and running. I do not plan to add anymore power to it. The plan is to put it back together and use it to tow my tows around the country. With the occasional hurt feeling pulls here and there. The feedback on this site has been incredibly helpful to me over the years and appreciate everything you guys do for the industry and myself!
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2004.5 LLY CCSB Suncoast G-MAX 5 with Precision converter, Energy trans mount, AAM Torsen carrier, DHD transfer case brace, Big Chevy Hitch Trac bars, MBRP down pipe to straight 5 inch diamond eye to 7 inch MBRP tip, 4 inch bills custom intake with S&B oiled filter, S&B intake horn, AD II 165, Ported fuel rail fittings, DRP fuel rail plug, DRP egr delete, LB7 passenger side up-pipe, DRP PCV re-route, Edge CS monitor with EGT probe, Moog Problem solver pitman and idler arm, Cognito PISK, Fab-tech tie rods

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  #28  
Old 03-31-2020, 08:51 AM
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if you go LBZ, just make sure you de-torque that tune a little more. at the rate you bent cyl 5, you can do the same to LBZ or LML rods.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

2002 LB7, LLY, LBZ, LMM, LML, L5P 2500HD CC/LB dmax/6sp alli "The Limo"

2020 L5P 2500HD CC/LB dmax/10sp alli "The New Limo" staying stock........ish

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