Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #16  
Old 03-19-2018, 11:43 AM
torqued2dmax's Avatar
torqued2dmax torqued2dmax is offline
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Good choices and dont forget to check out the injector return lines they are known to leak , I forgot to mention them before ! You dont want to go through all this then spin a bearing because of fuel in pan ! Good luck !
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AFE Blade Runner,AFE Momentum CAI,DHD Big Air intake Y pipe, DHD fuel block,DHD pcv reroute,MBRP 4 inch exhaust,DHD 3 inch downpipe,BD driver's side manifold,DHD pass side up pipe,DHD 3 inch intercooler hot&cold pipes, ATI damper,Empire pin kit by Big Foot on & off road shop, FASS fuel system,5/8 inch pickup, FASS fuel filter delete, EFI live,V2 & lap top , 5 position switch 250 hp big tune, shimmed fprv by Crank it up , built SunCoast Allison 1078 converter aftermarket trany mount by Limitless Diesel,ARP head studs,grade C gaskets,tig-welded water pump,T stats by Blackout performance,MA t case brace , Kriptonite motor mounts,MA pump rub kit,HD drive shaft 1480joints by Greensburg machine,BDS Recoil traction bars, PPE finned deep pan , Mike L trany cooler, PSC pump, 5100s, Sulastic Shackles, Curt com 2.5 hitch
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  #17  
Old 03-19-2018, 11:59 AM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torqued2dmax View Post
Good choices and dont forget to check out the injector return lines they are known to leak , I forgot to mention them before ! You dont want to go through all this then spin a bearing because of fuel in pan ! Good luck !
Certainly not. When I bought the truck I checked oil for signs of fuel and didn't see any, so I'm hoping I'm good on the bearings.
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2002 LB7/ZF6 CCSB Sierra 4x4
340k miles
Stock...for now

Plans:
KP D60 front, ORD leafs front/rear, Twin Stick NP205, 4.56 gearing locked rear, PSC steering/hydro assist , 37"s on H1 wheels, Titan or Aerotank replacement

SAC45% Injectors, SB SD clutch, Kennedy pump and filter heads, S&B intake, ProFab up/down pipe, manifolds, Mild Tune from Rob
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  #18  
Old 03-19-2018, 01:30 PM
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2004LB7 2004LB7 is offline
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I second what everyone else is saying. Sac 45 injectors, a mild tune and clutch if you want. Enjoy

I would be more worried about the rest of your truck with rust, wheel bearings, etc then the milage on the engine. Since you know the history and condition of your truck just and are happy with it, there is no reason for another engine and its expenses

With new injectors and maybe a CP3 you will be surprised how good it can run at that milage
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2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.

2006 BRM Jetta TDI. Injectors, turbo, Malone custom tuning on ecm and tcm
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  #19  
Old 03-19-2018, 03:08 PM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2004LB7 View Post
I second what everyone else is saying. Sac 45 injectors, a mild tune and clutch if you want. Enjoy

I would be more worried about the rest of your truck with rust, wheel bearings, etc then the milage on the engine. Since you know the history and condition of your truck just and are happy with it, there is no reason for another engine and its expenses

With new injectors and maybe a CP3 you will be surprised how good it can run at that milage
It certainly makes me feel more comfortable that this has been everyone's response. I'll look into testing the CP3, or just budget for replacement. Thanks for the heads up. The turbo is the other thing I was a little worried about with the mileage.

I plan to put a rebuilt Dana 60 in the front, rebuild the 14b in the rear, swap to a 205 transfer case and rebuild driveshafts. That'll take care of the drivetrain, along with the clutch.

The interior I already picked up a full set of front/rear seats, I'm still debating putting new rubber floor in or switch to carpet, with sound deadening under. Replace the steering wheel and add in my stereo, maybe a headliner eventually and the thing will be practically restored mechanically. Crank windows and manual locks, manual seats, nothing to go wrong there.
It's a California truck so there's no significant rust to speak of. Small chip on the hood, but I may swap to the 03+ grill and change the hood eventually.
Maybe add some new cab/body mounts to that list.

I got the truck for $5k, which isn't a steal but it's not bad either IMO. I figure I'm going to put another $10k into it over time, and for $15k I'll have exactly what I want and good for another 150k miles VS 10-15k for a lower mile truck and then having to add in everything I want still for another 7-8k at least
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2002 LB7/ZF6 CCSB Sierra 4x4
340k miles
Stock...for now

Plans:
KP D60 front, ORD leafs front/rear, Twin Stick NP205, 4.56 gearing locked rear, PSC steering/hydro assist , 37"s on H1 wheels, Titan or Aerotank replacement

SAC45% Injectors, SB SD clutch, Kennedy pump and filter heads, S&B intake, ProFab up/down pipe, manifolds, Mild Tune from Rob
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  #20  
Old 03-19-2018, 04:02 PM
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clrussell clrussell is offline
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Do not use the single disc. Pony up and buy the street 650 dual disc. The single won't hold a 100hp tune.. I know
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  #21  
Old 03-19-2018, 06:14 PM
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^^ good advise right there. Dual disc and a good set of injectors would be the first things on my list. You could do studs when doing injectors. 450hp would be no problem.
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2002 ecsb lbz zf6

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  #22  
Old 03-19-2018, 06:46 PM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clrussell View Post
Do not use the single disc. Pony up and buy the street 650 dual disc. The single won't hold a 100hp tune.. I know
Good feedback. Can you tow fine with the street 650 DD? And how's it drive on the street, I'd assume fine with the name...

I'm not opposed to bumping the power and clutch, but I'm not racing it or sleds or anything. I did love my LBZ with a big tune from Rob... but I don't necessarily need that with this truck. I don't want to temp myself with 4wd launches and thrashing lol
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2002 LB7/ZF6 CCSB Sierra 4x4
340k miles
Stock...for now

Plans:
KP D60 front, ORD leafs front/rear, Twin Stick NP205, 4.56 gearing locked rear, PSC steering/hydro assist , 37"s on H1 wheels, Titan or Aerotank replacement

SAC45% Injectors, SB SD clutch, Kennedy pump and filter heads, S&B intake, ProFab up/down pipe, manifolds, Mild Tune from Rob
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  #23  
Old 03-19-2018, 06:48 PM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by melms23 View Post
^^ good advise right there. Dual disc and a good set of injectors would be the first things on my list. You could do studs when doing injectors. 450hp would be no problem.
You mean by replacing each stud one at a time, or fully pulling heads to do injectors and studs?
I asked earlier but got no response, at the power levels I'm looking at (even if you bump to 475-500) am I going to see any benefit in studs?
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2002 LB7/ZF6 CCSB Sierra 4x4
340k miles
Stock...for now

Plans:
KP D60 front, ORD leafs front/rear, Twin Stick NP205, 4.56 gearing locked rear, PSC steering/hydro assist , 37"s on H1 wheels, Titan or Aerotank replacement

SAC45% Injectors, SB SD clutch, Kennedy pump and filter heads, S&B intake, ProFab up/down pipe, manifolds, Mild Tune from Rob
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  #24  
Old 03-19-2018, 11:33 PM
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2004LB7 2004LB7 is offline
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At the power level you are looking for no reason for studs. But yes, one stud at a time leaving the heads in place.
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2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.

2006 BRM Jetta TDI. Injectors, turbo, Malone custom tuning on ecm and tcm
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  #25  
Old 03-20-2018, 06:35 PM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Curse whoever advised me to stay away from the SB single disk, and do the SB dual disk rated for 650hp

Of course now that means the gears are staring to turn in my head and the 425hp seems to be slipping out the window.
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2002 LB7/ZF6 CCSB Sierra 4x4
340k miles
Stock...for now

Plans:
KP D60 front, ORD leafs front/rear, Twin Stick NP205, 4.56 gearing locked rear, PSC steering/hydro assist , 37"s on H1 wheels, Titan or Aerotank replacement

SAC45% Injectors, SB SD clutch, Kennedy pump and filter heads, S&B intake, ProFab up/down pipe, manifolds, Mild Tune from Rob
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  #26  
Old 03-21-2018, 05:24 AM
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torqued2dmax torqued2dmax is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fl0w3n View Post
Curse whoever advised me to stay away from the SB single disk, and do the SB dual disk rated for 650hp

Of course now that means the gears are staring to turn in my head and the 425hp seems to be slipping out the window.
Each time those gears turn in your head , another $1000 goes with it ! LOL !
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05 CC/LB DRW LLY Allison
AFE Blade Runner,AFE Momentum CAI,DHD Big Air intake Y pipe, DHD fuel block,DHD pcv reroute,MBRP 4 inch exhaust,DHD 3 inch downpipe,BD driver's side manifold,DHD pass side up pipe,DHD 3 inch intercooler hot&cold pipes, ATI damper,Empire pin kit by Big Foot on & off road shop, FASS fuel system,5/8 inch pickup, FASS fuel filter delete, EFI live,V2 & lap top , 5 position switch 250 hp big tune, shimmed fprv by Crank it up , built SunCoast Allison 1078 converter aftermarket trany mount by Limitless Diesel,ARP head studs,grade C gaskets,tig-welded water pump,T stats by Blackout performance,MA t case brace , Kriptonite motor mounts,MA pump rub kit,HD drive shaft 1480joints by Greensburg machine,BDS Recoil traction bars, PPE finned deep pan , Mike L trany cooler, PSC pump, 5100s, Sulastic Shackles, Curt com 2.5 hitch
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  #27  
Old 03-21-2018, 06:00 AM
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Dozerboy Dozerboy is offline
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Unless youíre towing a heavy camper you donít need any more power. I never see high-power Dieselís Offroad do any better then more moderately powered ones. Unless itís a mud truck sitting on AG tires and turning serious rpmís.


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  #28  
Old 03-21-2018, 07:24 AM
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You mentioned switching to a 205 xcase. Don't do that. The 261/263 is much stronger in pretty much every way. Use a 78-79 HP D60 if you insist on switching to a D60 front axle. That'll put the pumpkin on the correct side to allow you to keep the rest of your stronger stock HD drive line.

And 14BFF rear? you aren't putting that in place of the rear end in your 2002 are you? Again, don't do that. The old 14b is not nearly as strong as the rear end already in your truck.
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SOLD02 Chevy 2500HD D/A EC SB LS
SCIII & X-Case brace by MA, Team Salad tuning & Trippin's DSP5, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust, Fumoto Valve, partially debadged, Rhino Bed Liner, SuperDiesel Intake Manifold and Ported Turbo Inlet



1983 GMC K30 CC SHORT BED
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  #29  
Old 03-21-2018, 06:45 PM
fl0w3n fl0w3n is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by torqued2dmax View Post
Each time those gears turn in your head , another $1000 goes with it ! LOL !
I sure believe that
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dozerboy View Post
Unless you’re towing a heavy camper you don’t need any more power. I never see high-power Diesel’s Offroad do any better then more moderately powered ones. Unless it’s a mud truck sitting on AG tires and turning serious rpm’s.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Right now I just have a ~6-7k boat trailer to tow, and the occasional car/truck haul. in the future I'll build a crawler hauler though. That'll come in anywhere from 12-15k depending how I build it. I won't need the power for Offroad, intact I'm concerened about breaking stuff from too much power.

Again it's kind of a jack of all trades master of none, too big to seriously haul massive loads, too big to hardcore Offroad without damage, too few parts towards make it "fast", too basic interior to make it a a luxury cruiser.

But, it'll pull most anything I happen to throw at it, it'll go most anywhere I point it Offroad, it'll be fun to drive with the clutch and power level, and it'll be comfortable and fun enough for road trips.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeShow View Post
You mentioned switching to a 205 xcase. Don't do that. The 261/263 is much stronger in pretty much every way. Use a 78-79 HP D60 if you insist on switching to a D60 front axle. That'll put the pumpkin on the correct side to allow you to keep the rest of your stronger stock HD drive line.

And 14BFF rear? you aren't putting that in place of the rear end in your 2002 are you? Again, don't do that. The old 14b is not nearly as strong as the rear end already in your truck.
I already have the 205 with a twin stick kit, so selectable Hi/Lo separately for front and rear, or rwd Hi/Lo, or front wheel drive Hi/Lo. Also, in the future I may add a NP203 gear box to the 205, or just spring for a Magnum Box.

I already have the Chevy Kingpin D60 with passenger drop and crossover steering, rebuilt kingpins, and 4.56 gearing

I also already have 4.56 gears and a Detroit locker for a full float 10.5 14b. That's the one item I'm not 100% sold on, and may follow what you said. I'm not worried about the strength of the old 14b, I've never heard of anyone breaking them. But I've already got disk brakes and an e-brake with the 11.5 14b, so I may just sell the gears and locker and keep the 11.5 and regear/lock that.
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2002 LB7/ZF6 CCSB Sierra 4x4
340k miles
Stock...for now

Plans:
KP D60 front, ORD leafs front/rear, Twin Stick NP205, 4.56 gearing locked rear, PSC steering/hydro assist , 37"s on H1 wheels, Titan or Aerotank replacement

SAC45% Injectors, SB SD clutch, Kennedy pump and filter heads, S&B intake, ProFab up/down pipe, manifolds, Mild Tune from Rob
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  #30  
Old 03-21-2018, 07:25 PM
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Just know if you push up around 900ft-lb of torque through that NP205 (which you'll do if you make 425rwhp - especially in a loaded up, low rev situation offroad), you're going to bust the case on it. Not if, when.
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SOLD02 Chevy 2500HD D/A EC SB LS
SCIII & X-Case brace by MA, Team Salad tuning & Trippin's DSP5, 4" Diamond Eye exhaust, Fumoto Valve, partially debadged, Rhino Bed Liner, SuperDiesel Intake Manifold and Ported Turbo Inlet



1983 GMC K30 CC SHORT BED
Awaiting Dmax/Allison Chassis Swap



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