Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
Old 11-17-2011, 06:57 AM
bigbopper bigbopper is offline
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Old 11-17-2011, 07:15 AM
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I followed this when I did mine, very good breakdown! I would like to add though if the truck is a ZF6 like mine you either need to pull the trans first or take the lower oil pan off. If not the oil pan hits the front diff before the input shaft is free.

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Old 11-17-2011, 08:07 AM
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2003 Lb7
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Originally Posted by hondarider552 View Post
big balls if you measure in seconds of duration
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Old 11-29-2011, 06:41 PM
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Bill H Bill H is offline
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I agree w Durally, Take it all off will make it much easier gettiting at the rest of it.
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Old 12-01-2011, 12:20 PM
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kenny kenny is offline
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I noticed you didn't include removing the fan. What is the size of the fan nut? Thanks and great write up.
2006 Chevy 4X4, CCSB, 2500HD, 6" Fabtech lift, traction bars, wireless air ride with semi bags, 20" WCC Wheels, 35" Toyo's, Custom Twins; GT40, GT47, Exergy 100%, Dual CP3, ARP headstuds, 5" downpipe to straight pipe, BD manifold, RDL up pipes, Wehrli ped and bridge, Airdog 150, Tial BOV, Synapse wastegates, EFI, Triple Billet converter, built trans, Mag Hytec pan, Mag Hytec cover, pcv bypass, EGR delete, ported rails, 3" boost tubes, 7 Autometer guages, carbon fiber lined interior, full audio sound system with woofers, monitors, navigation, and back-up camera, and I own this truck just to pull the toys around.

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Old 12-15-2011, 02:36 PM
Wyo Wyo is offline
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Easiest way to remove the fan is with a air chisels, comes off in a few rattles and works great.
Just a FYI,
Easiest way to remove it is to remove the front clip, after you do it once you will never do it any other way, it comes off quick if you have ever done it.

Also if you pull the hood, fenders and bumper first, you can then remove the entire radiator support fully intact, wiring and all.

When going back together though you have to install the support, fenders, hood and align before tightening down. If you have a friend that knows about body work they can help. But like I said do it once and you will know.

Last edited by Wyo; 12-15-2011 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 12-16-2011, 08:34 AM
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durallymax durallymax is offline
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You dont have to remove the fan to pull the engine it can stay on it. the nut is a 47mm. You will need a hold tool though as well. You can buy a complete kit for around a hundred bucks that services many fan clutchs or use air chisels.

I guess i dont see the advantage to remove the hood and fenders but to each their own. i understand it giving you more room to work, but there isnt much you need to work on. I dont feel its worth the extra hassle. You can remove the radiator stack as a big chuck with the upper support intact leaving the rest of the support there.

Again, 1000 ways to skin a cat, but completely stripping the front of the truck down to remove the engine seems like a lot of extra unnecessary work, and in that amount of time you could just pull the cab off to remove the engine and still be time ahead. Again still unnecessary and would also tie up a lift for awhile.

But still, to each their own. Many ways to do it, glad you found a way you like.
Wife:2010 Jetta TDI "Cup Edition" Thunderbunny. Stg 2 Malone, Rawtek Straightpipe
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Old 01-07-2012, 01:13 AM
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DeMax LB7 DeMax LB7 is offline
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Thats a awesome write up man! damn well done! gonna keep this handy.
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Old 02-14-2012, 06:58 PM
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Chavis, 2001 rc/lb Lots of air, Lots of fuel, Lots of spray.

2003 rc/lb zf6 South bend dual disk 64/75 compounds 30% injectors
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Old 02-14-2012, 07:59 PM
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Springer415 Springer415 is offline
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edge juice with attitude, 4" mbrp turbo back with muffler, pretty much stock other than that
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:08 PM
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02cc/lbd lb7 only the best

ppe boost increase valve

19.5x6.75 rickson truck wheels

245/70/19.5 kumho krd02 {33"}

frontier gear bumper front and rear

trans flow 98gl. in bed tank with trax monitoring system

airdog 2 165

268hp/539ft-lb {not bad for stock}
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:15 PM
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AubleAK AubleAK is offline
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Originally Posted by COWBOYTRUUUU View Post
i have a 08 durmax and the battary ran down so i was jumping it off and got the leads on the wrong terminals, pos was on neg.... now it will not do anything at all, now i have put 2 new batterys in it still not a thing ,,whats the box on the pass,side mounted on the firewall? any help out there????

this is the wrong section to post in. fill out your SIGnature, then go repost in the duramax hard parts section.

Nice write up!
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Old 12-16-2015, 07:46 PM
Justinsaine Justinsaine is offline
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Default Excellent Job!!

Thank You for the Info.
Would you do anything different if you were going in with another engine going from a 01 to an 03 both LB7 but different years.

Thanks a bunch
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Old 10-21-2016, 04:30 AM
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WVRigrat05 WVRigrat05 is offline
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Wow, that took some patience, good write up.
05' Black Chevy CC/SB LT- Blackout Performance built motor/trans/tuning- Gone

The Blessed Hellride- 08' White GMC Sierra SLT CC/SB,
100k miles. Piston eater.

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Rig ride/new DD-02' Black Eddie Bauer explorer 4.6, -180k, still sporting original trans, outlasted two Duramaxs.
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Old 03-14-2018, 04:59 PM
rickcdewitt rickcdewitt is offline
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Originally Posted by 02greysixer View Post
I followed this when I did mine, very good breakdown! I would like to add though if the truck is a ZF6 like mine you either need to pull the trans first or take the lower oil pan off. If not the oil pan hits the front diff before the input shaft is free.

Sint frum tha orijinul smert fone
I can vouch for this if you don't have a lift that drops the diff a bunch.same for install
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