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View Poll Results: Reusable Filter or Standard Canister
Reusable Filter 1 8.33%
Standard Canister 11 91.67%
Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 02-06-2018, 12:46 PM
Bdsankey Bdsankey is offline
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Default Engine Oil Filter: Reusable (HUBB) or Standard Canister?

I have been seeing the Cummins guys taking a liking to the reusable stainless steel type filters (HUBB for example) for engine oil.

I am in the process of building my engine and am wondering if the reusable engine oil filters are worth their price or worth it in terms of protection?



I do not doubt the flow rate is higher than a canister filter.



I personally run AmsOil EAO52 filters on my truck now. Unless I can find proof that a reusable/cleanable filter is a truly better option then I will stick with that route and Cen-Pe-Co 20w50.
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Old 02-06-2018, 12:56 PM
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I donít see the point in a Duramax. They are so easy on oil and have such low wear numbers. Anything more then stock filtering isnt really needed. I have a bypass oil filter and wouldnít of bought it if I could do it all over again. I have single digit wear numbers running Dino oil up to 16k. I could keep running the oil if I wanted, but the additives are starting to wear out at that point.


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Old 02-06-2018, 01:50 PM
Bdsankey Bdsankey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dozerboy View Post
I donít see the point in a Duramax. They are so easy on oil and have such low wear numbers. Anything more then stock filtering isnt really needed. I have a bypass oil filter and wouldnít of bought it if I could do it all over again. I have single digit wear numbers running Dino oil up to 16k. I could keep running the oil if I wanted, but the additives are starting to wear out at that point.


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I am not so much concerned with the filtering as they all provide great filtering. My thoughts were more so on pure oil flow #s for higher rpm engines used in pulling.
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Current Rides:
1) Toy: 2005 LLY ECSB, Leather, Sunroof
-820hp/1748ft-lbs @ Duramax Tuner (6/25/18)
-Built Motor, Bullseye Batmowheel S475/87/1.0 "Comp R75", Exergy 250% overs with "Redman" internal mods, Exergy 14mm street pump w/AN feed, Goerend "J" Converter, Built Trans, AD2 165, Beans Sump, E-Locker, TrueTrac, Yukon 4340 Shafts, Traction Bars, DHD Center Link Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support


Past Rides:
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-New Bosch Reman Injectors, New LBZ CP3, FASS 150, RCD Sump, 3" MBRP Downpipe, 4" Downpipe Back w/ Muffler, Sleeves, DHD Centerlink Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support, Steering Wheel Radio Control Swap
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Old 02-06-2018, 02:59 PM
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No duramax is easy on oil. We run the hottest overall engine oil temps...

I don't care for the reusable stuff personally.
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Old 02-06-2018, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondarider552 View Post
No duramax is easy on oil. We run the hottest overall engine oil temps...

I don't care for the reusable stuff personally.
Temperature isn't everything and there are thousands UOAs out there that would disagree with you. Built engines and comp only vehicals changes things.

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Old 02-06-2018, 05:32 PM
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Smallest oil cooler between the 3, less oil capacity compared to the rest etc.
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  #7  
Old 02-06-2018, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondarider552 View Post
Smallest oil cooler between the 3, less oil capacity compared to the rest etc.


Just like a large pan on an Allison, more capacity wonít help temps. You know this... oil cooler isnít the issue when coolant temps stay 20-30* within oil temp. The cooling stack becomes the issue
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best time to date: 12.39

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Old 02-06-2018, 08:10 PM
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Point made.

Why is the dmax crowd the ones only worried about oil temps then?
I've never seen a Cummins with an added engine oil cooler, and a 6.0 liter needs one just to stay alive.in stock form
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  #9  
Old 02-06-2018, 10:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondarider552 View Post
Point made.

Why is the dmax crowd the ones only worried about oil temps then?
I've never seen a Cummins with an added engine oil cooler, and a 6.0 liter needs one just to stay alive.in stock form
The 6.0 crowd is concerned with oil temperature for sure. So not just Duramaxes.

And there are the odd nuts out there (me, at least) that tow with 660 HP and don't even monitor oil temp. So I don't think the engine has any particular issue with oil temps.

Not that any type of filter would change that. Honestly, the filter is only there to catch the really big metal parts when something goes really badly. Motorcycles use washable filters just fine. But I'm not sure it is worth the hassle when you can get an ACDelco PF2232 for $7 all day long.

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Old 02-07-2018, 03:33 AM
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The hubb cost to much money to get/ maintain
You have to drive your filter to a napa or someone with a sonic cleaner and they take about an hour-2 to clean depending on how dirty it is... I then asked how are they even selling any and he told me mostly ford guys and Jeep guys are buying them lol
To answer your question though on flow a dirty filter no matter what it is will only flow a certain % so if your worried of flow just change it every 5k or 500
A built motor shouldn’t be putting out any more material than a stock on (once broke in)
So your concern should be more on oil life
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Old 02-07-2018, 07:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hondarider552 View Post
Point made.

Why is the dmax crowd the ones only worried about oil temps then?
I've never seen a Cummins with an added engine oil cooler, and a 6.0 liter needs one just to stay alive.in stock form
i dont think you have looked around enough. its not like there are very many guys doing what the few of us do with 500-600 actual rwhp and towing heavy loads. for one, the 68 wont hold up to shit towing those loads even built. 2, ive seen 2 dodge trucks come through fred/marks shop with oil coolers on them for towing. 3, i have two buddies with 6.7 fords, we were all monitoring oil temps one trip to moab. The 6.7 was running the same temp as my dads 15.5 LML while they all had about 8k on the back. this was 230* oil temps/210* coolant pulling grades out of phx and flagstaff in 85-90* weather. the L5P runs even cooler on oil temps now, josh has the data to go with it. only issue with the fords were we couldnt pass a fuel station without having to stop. my god did they get shitty mpg.
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Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:51 AM
Bdsankey Bdsankey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hambone View Post
The hubb cost to much money to get/ maintain
You have to drive your filter to a napa or someone with a sonic cleaner and they take about an hour-2 to clean depending on how dirty it is... I then asked how are they even selling any and he told me mostly ford guys and Jeep guys are buying them lol
To answer your question though on flow a dirty filter no matter what it is will only flow a certain % so if your worried of flow just change it every 5k or 500
A built motor shouldnít be putting out any more material than a stock on (once broke in)
So your concern should be more on oil life
It is going to be getting 2500mi/10 pull change intervals with Cen-Pe-Co 20W50 Racing oil
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Current Rides:
1) Toy: 2005 LLY ECSB, Leather, Sunroof
-820hp/1748ft-lbs @ Duramax Tuner (6/25/18)
-Built Motor, Bullseye Batmowheel S475/87/1.0 "Comp R75", Exergy 250% overs with "Redman" internal mods, Exergy 14mm street pump w/AN feed, Goerend "J" Converter, Built Trans, AD2 165, Beans Sump, E-Locker, TrueTrac, Yukon 4340 Shafts, Traction Bars, DHD Center Link Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support


Past Rides:
1) 2002 LB7 CCSB, Leather, Loaded
-New Bosch Reman Injectors, New LBZ CP3, FASS 150, RCD Sump, 3" MBRP Downpipe, 4" Downpipe Back w/ Muffler, Sleeves, DHD Centerlink Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support, Steering Wheel Radio Control Swap
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:54 AM
Bdsankey Bdsankey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
Just like a large pan on an Allison, more capacity wonít help temps. You know this... oil cooler isnít the issue when coolant temps stay 20-30* within oil temp. The cooling stack becomes the issue
How are you monitoring oil temp on the duramax, which port are you using?
__________________
Current Rides:
1) Toy: 2005 LLY ECSB, Leather, Sunroof
-820hp/1748ft-lbs @ Duramax Tuner (6/25/18)
-Built Motor, Bullseye Batmowheel S475/87/1.0 "Comp R75", Exergy 250% overs with "Redman" internal mods, Exergy 14mm street pump w/AN feed, Goerend "J" Converter, Built Trans, AD2 165, Beans Sump, E-Locker, TrueTrac, Yukon 4340 Shafts, Traction Bars, DHD Center Link Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support


Past Rides:
1) 2002 LB7 CCSB, Leather, Loaded
-New Bosch Reman Injectors, New LBZ CP3, FASS 150, RCD Sump, 3" MBRP Downpipe, 4" Downpipe Back w/ Muffler, Sleeves, DHD Centerlink Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support, Steering Wheel Radio Control Swap
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bdsankey View Post
It is going to be getting 2500mi/10 pull change intervals with Cen-Pe-Co 20W50 Racing oil
what are your main/rod bearing clearances. there is some interesting info on running a thicker oil if the clearances were not designed for it. oil will get hotter than thinner oil and eventually pressure drops to the same as the thinner oil but at a hotter temp

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bdsankey View Post
How are you monitoring oil temp on the duramax, which port are you using?
autometer oil temp gauge that is threaded into the top port on the oil cooler housing. this is "pre cooler" so you see close to the hottest temp the oil will be.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoshH View Post
Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #15  
Old 02-08-2018, 08:04 AM
Bdsankey Bdsankey is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
what are your main/rod bearing clearances. there is some interesting info on running a thicker oil if the clearances were not designed for it. oil will get hotter than thinner oil and eventually pressure drops to the same as the thinner oil but at a hotter temp



autometer oil temp gauge that is threaded into the top port on the oil cooler housing. this is "pre cooler" so you see close to the hottest temp the oil will be.
1) I have not even dropped the block off at the machine shop. I don't know what the clearance should be but they said they could make sure the clearances are right. They are doing the machining and measuring it for bearings.

2) Good to know, I will have to add that to my sensor array on the CTS 2.
__________________
Current Rides:
1) Toy: 2005 LLY ECSB, Leather, Sunroof
-820hp/1748ft-lbs @ Duramax Tuner (6/25/18)
-Built Motor, Bullseye Batmowheel S475/87/1.0 "Comp R75", Exergy 250% overs with "Redman" internal mods, Exergy 14mm street pump w/AN feed, Goerend "J" Converter, Built Trans, AD2 165, Beans Sump, E-Locker, TrueTrac, Yukon 4340 Shafts, Traction Bars, DHD Center Link Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support


Past Rides:
1) 2002 LB7 CCSB, Leather, Loaded
-New Bosch Reman Injectors, New LBZ CP3, FASS 150, RCD Sump, 3" MBRP Downpipe, 4" Downpipe Back w/ Muffler, Sleeves, DHD Centerlink Brace, DHD Lower Crossmember Support, Steering Wheel Radio Control Swap
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