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-   -   LLY: 05 LLY Build (https://www.duramaxdiesels.com/forum/showthread.php?t=79139)

Bdsankey 03-21-2018 10:18 AM

05 LLY Build
 
3 Attachment(s)
I bought the truck from the original owner in the fall of 2015 with 312k miles for $5,000. It is leather, loaded, sunroof, bose ect. Its end game is going to be morphing into one hell of a good sleeper to mess with corvettes, camaros, ect.

About the Truck:
The trans was rebuilt at 320k (approx) with stock shafts, SunCoast 1058, t-case brace ect and I was very pleased with the trucks new found power.

Mods: Round 1
Two summers ago (2016) a couple of injectors stuck open and it was deemed time for new injectors. My head gaskets were gone also creating the ticking time bomb it became @ 342k miles.

I built my own traction bars out of 2" OD x 1.5" ID A513 DOM tube, 3/8" brackets, and Ballistic Fab 2.63" joints front/rear to keep the axle in place. I didn't know what the proper material or what everyone else used but I know how to overbuild things so that's what I did.

At this time it got 60% overs from Exergy, an Exergy 10mm pump used from a friend, WCFab 3" bridge/cold side/hot side, and a Danville 68mm Stage 2R 4094. The truck dyno'd @ 671hp/1187tq in April 2017.

Bdsankey 03-21-2018 10:19 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Mods: Round 2
Toward the end of Summer 2017 the truck started to idle weird and finally started showing signs of low compression. In order to fund my engine build I sold my rust free CC/SB 2002 LB7, leather/loaded and headed to the forums to see what was holding power and what wasn't.

I ended up on the below for the engine build:
-CP Carrillo Hybrid Kit (rods/pistons/rings/wrist pins)(saves 4lbs out of rotating assembly, has 0.202" longer rod)
-SunCoast billet flexplate (they ran a sale end of 2017 for $450 shipped)
-SoCal 6480AF cam
-Socal Pushrods
-SoCal Valve Beehive Springs (steel retainers)
-Fluidampr (I know, people say they break cranks but I feel they are not the cause)
-GM Oil Pump
-New GM oil cooler
-Coated main/cam/rod bearings
-ARP fasteners

This engine is going to be used as a hot street motor and for sled pulls. I would like to hit the strip but there isn't much of a bracket scene in my area.

I am going to feed it with a billet S476/87, throw a Goerend "J" converter in it, add a second 10mm pump, tubular 304SS exhaust manifolds/up-pipes and let it eat.

Bdsankey 03-21-2018 10:22 AM

3 Attachment(s)
I figured while I had everything apart it was time to do a little powdercoating. I went ahead and got the accessory brackets, front timing cover, valve covers, intake clams, coolant crossover, and a couple other components done up in "Illusion Orange".

My HSP S400 kit is done in "Silver Vein" (a hammered gray look).

frankenstien 03-21-2018 01:48 PM

Looking good that's a lot of work, I made my faction bars out of the same size tuning, might be over killing but it'll never break.

Bdsankey 03-21-2018 01:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by frankenstien (Post 1096843)
Looking good that's a lot of work, I made my faction bars out of the same size tuning, might be over killing but it'll never break.

It's definitely a lot of work. Using the CP-Carrillo hybrid kit really threw my machine shop for a loop as they were expecting the rotating assy to take more weight.

I'm going to do some "not best practice" tuning on the regs to shoot rail through the roof in the big tune (put regs to full pressure) in an attempt to get more fuel. On tune 2 (depending on how you tune its tune 4) it will be the same profile other than the reg tuning will be put back to normal.

TheBac 03-21-2018 06:11 PM

Little bit o'toe-in going on during that pull, eh? :rofl:

Like what you're doing so far! :thumb:

Bdsankey 03-21-2018 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheBac (Post 1096869)
Little bit o'toe-in going on during that pull, eh? :rofl:

Like what you're doing so far! :thumb:

That was before I put the dhd support in. After that it doesnít toe-in at all

2005redlly 03-21-2018 06:58 PM

Are a lot of people starting to run the cp hybrid kit? Can't find much info on it.

Bdsankey 03-21-2018 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 2005redlly (Post 1096876)
Are a lot of people starting to run the cp hybrid kit? Can't find much info on it.

I canít find anyone who is running it. There are zero reviews on usage.

I figured it literally canít hurt to remove weight and increase rod length. It is a pricey setup retailing for $5200-$5500 I believe. With that you get rods, pistons, rings, wrist pins, pin clips and some fancy stickers.

Bdsankey 04-19-2018 11:07 AM

Update, got everything from the machine shop today so I can start assembly this weekend.

More pictures to come this weekend into next week!

Burn Down 04-19-2018 09:26 PM

Sounds pretty solid.

melvinalbs 04-19-2018 10:58 PM

Sounds good, I can't wait to see it. :thumb:

Bdsankey 04-20-2018 06:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burn Down (Post 1100271)
Sounds pretty solid.

The only thing I didn't do was billet mains/girdle/crank. I know the motor will hold together with any T4 single I put on it.

End goal is in a few years (complete billet trans first) is to pull it out again and do a callies narrow rod throw crank/billet caps/girdle and o-ring the block & heads.

I will be switching over to a set of LBZ heads probably for next season then I can also check out the pistons and see how they are doing. I'm hoping with the CP-Carrillo forged pistons she should get good street life due to the small piston-to-wall clearance (0.008 iirc) where as other forged pistons require a higher running tolerance.

Bdsankey 04-26-2018 02:12 PM

4 Attachment(s)
Update: Got the rotating assy and block back from the machine shop last Thursday. The amount of weight they pulled out of the crank for balancing is insane. I've seen inside a few other built motor trucks


I managed to break an oil ring Sunday with my cheap Summit tapered ring compressor. After that $100 overnight bill from California I decided to overnight the ARP tapered ring compressor as well for 4.075" bore. I managed to break 2 more rings with the ARP tapered compressor (oil rings) so I had to suck it up and get help from the machine shop. What doesn't make sense is I've done this numerous times on other engines and had zero issues.


This weekend/next week (before UCC) I am hoping to have the engine bolted in the truck/bolted to the trans. That would be awesome to get accomplished as then all I have to do is bolt the turbo setup on and hook up the easy stuff.

Burn Down 04-26-2018 02:18 PM

I’d be curious how long this set up can last. Lighter rotating assembly has to be easier on the crank. They did drill a lot out:thumb:


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