LB7: LB7 Injector replacment hints & tips! DIY

[mytmousemalibu]

Thought I'd take the time to move my thread/posts while i can! Hope this is helpful, and you guys and gals can learn somthing new!

Not straight up tech advice, just my experiances and opinions, not tryin to cause arguments! If anyone can elaborate or add usfulness, by all means go for it!

LB7 Fuel leaks/Injector problems

Tools you'll need... (besides normal metric stuff)
*5mm allen bit
*8mm allen bit
*5mm 1/4 ball-end bit (not nessiary but very handy)
*pick set (handy too)
*5mm allen wrench

When enough parts are removed blow-off or vac the valvecover area (top) and around injector lines to remove debris. Pain to clean it out of the head and injector fitting. Don't drop stuff down oil drain holes in head. When the injectors are out carfull to keep steel button in place in head under injector clamp.

Drivers side & passenger side tips... when removing a/c compressor leave lines on swing to pass side. When removing v/c's if still has factory sealant,you may need to use a pipe and a floor jack to get it loose,(factory sealant is super strong) USE CAUTION! There are 2 places on the v/c's to get a screwdriver in to pry with, feel them on edge(not the tabs sticking out). When removing Passenger boost pipe, cover +battery terminal or u'll be aluminum welding. (or remove the battery too)

Best way to find leaks is to reassemble without v/c's and run it, don't hook fuel back up to IDM, loop it and move IDM (Injector Driver Module) to front out of way. Dont put cooling housing/hose back on, remove thermostats and tape holes, remove the belt, its ok to run like this for a short bit. when running with v/c's off don't touch injector wiring, HIGH VOLTAGE/AMPS CAN KILL YOU! Just stay clear of them and u'll be fine. Keep fire extinguisher near in case. When running unplug the only wire on the CP3 to get max psi or use EFILive to command max psi, if u have a leak you should see it then, look around base of the injector too, spray them off w/brake clean to see fuel wetting easyer. Will sound like crap with CP3 at max psi, ok for checking. When reassembling snug 15mm inj fuel inlet fittings in body, BE CAREFUL, not to tight, they can back off when removing lines and cause a leak, they are pinned in place so they wont turn much. Should replace all fuel system seals, about $200 from stealer, get them elseware. Make sure allens are fully seated in v/c bolts and return fittings or they WILL STRIP!

*Direct injection systems reqire a high voltage/amp output to operate the injectors at the pressures they run, I THINK it takes somthing like 70 volts to overcome the resistance of skin, and like 10 miliamps to kill and direct injection systems can run in upwards of 150V @ 70A, on gas engines, diesels could be more?, so with that said, im not touching injection wires on a runing engine! Anyone know the specs on D-Max values?


Sources of leaks:
Return lines
inlet fitting loose
CP3 front seal (mostly if u have a lift pump)
Loose nozzle cap (u'll have fuel in the inj. bore, always check for tightness)
Injector: ball in body should be seated a few mm in or its bad (pic of that in my gallery), fuel out of hole in end = bad, cracked body = bad

I still have more to add here, Ill post again with more later, feel free to ask ANYTHING if u need!
thanks
CHRIS
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[mytmousemalibu]

Few things to add to the thread.

If your engine hadden't been apart before or recently, its likly there will be alot of fine dirt and debris on all the engine, top edge of the valve covers, and down around the fuel line grommets, trust me i didnt blow mine off the
1st time and was rewarded with dirt all over my heads and valvetrain and down in the injector fuel inlet fittings, so a little extra time cleanin is well worth it! And if your induction plumbing is removed already, cover all that stuff up too. When i ran mine partially assembled i didn't put the induction back on, i covered all openings and put a filter on the intake inlet an ran it as a naturally asparated engine, just capped off the turbo, it dosnt need it to idle for a little to check for leaks. It will spit oil all over but it's not running long enough to be a worry ( keep a fire ext. handy anyway) just spray the mess down with brake clean afterward. Make sure the brake spray is dryed up and vapor is disipated well, very flamable and acts like ether around a running diesel. It will take a little to get it started after all the stuff has been removed, just prime it with the pump on the filter good and crank a little and repeat untill it fires. When the Injector driver module is removed, it's fuel cooled (hence the lines at the top), try to keep from spilling the fuel out of it and if u do refill it before puting it back on final assembly, can be a pain to get bled out so u can start the engine up. The IDM also has some rubber isolator washers on its mounts that like to fall out when the bolts are removed. On mine, initial injector removal a few were real hard to get pulled out of the head, some had carbon built up in the bore they seat in making them stick, screw a line on it and u can use it like a handle to help wiggle it free, carful not to bend the line though.

Still more i'm forgetting, so i'll keep posting. If somthing isn't clear or understandable or you just have a question, Please feel free to ask me or PM me! Ill try to be as helpful as i can!!! I started this thread for u guys that might be in the same situation i'm in and if i can save you some time, trouble and frustration then i'm happy!

Heres some new pics of an injector replacment! Yellow arrows indicate a part to remove or move. Blue, a place to pry or lift, White, BLOW areas off before removing further parts! The 1st pic is some of my special tools for d-max fuel system diagnosis. The close-ups of the injector show the ball that should be seated into the hole, pics of a good injector and bad! The nozzles, 50% on the left and a new stock on the right. the bracket in the middle pic is the other fuel line retainer and the glow controller goes on top of it. 7-6 pic from last is where raw fuel will be if that nozzle cap is loose. the clamp stays with the inj. untill its out. Hope this is helpful, PM me if your unclear about anything!

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[mytmousemalibu]

[Kat]

[McRat]

Thank you very much! I know what a PITA doing tutorials and working at the same time is. It is appreciated.

[02freighttrain]

Nice job......and thanks. the process does look very familiar.

[mytmousemalibu]

No Problemo! PITA it is (the LB7's injectors)! I'd like to forget how many times i've torn into this sucker! Kinda lookin like i'll be doin it yet again soon, more diesel in the oil

But anyhow your more than welcome! If i can save someone a few minutes then it was worth it!

Anytime from now on, when i do somthin to the truck thats more than normal mantinence, i'll have my camera with me to capture the details! Thats all for the better of our passion right?

[2500HeavyDuty]

I got some pics to add to this here:

http://s219.photobucket.com/albums/c...jector%20Swap/


its all on the passenger side though.

[Bgrassguitar]

2500HeavyDuty...I just went through your photo album. Thanks for the link! I'm planning on doing the swap this weekend. The pictures will be very helpful!

[2500HeavyDuty]

its nothing really too bad with the swap, just very very time consuming. keeping your work area clean makes the work alot easier

[bestcvb]

Could you please provide pictures for IDM location in 1996 Navistar International 3000 SERIES 3800 ?
Please !