Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #16  
Old 06-24-2009, 09:39 PM
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The lower hose is extremely simple, and faster to drain, about 10 seconds. Use channel locks.

A petcock takes 10 minutes.

You can do a coolant flush in 15 minutes, if you don't complicate it.

If a high mileage vehicle with poor maintenance, consider running a light degreaser till a bit warm, not hot. Then drain 3-4 times, on the last drain use bottled, distilled or RO water.

No oil based coolants. Ethylene Glycol, Di-ethylene Glycol, or Propylene Glycol (Evans)...each 96%...pH buffers and anti-corrosion, and anti-cavitation additives, 4%.
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  #17  
Old 03-12-2010, 08:04 AM
lotsofmiles lotsofmiles is offline
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Did you end up doing yours Tim?

I'm getting close to another change and am trying to decide if I want to do it or take it in. I think they charged me about $100 last time
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  #18  
Old 03-12-2010, 08:23 AM
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would it be faster to pull the thermostats, then drain and fill the radiator and run the truck for a few min then drain it all back out?
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  #19  
Old 03-20-2010, 11:19 PM
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On the lmm there is no petcock there is however a block drain on the drivers side. It will drain the entire system without taking off the cap on the overflow. This was the process described in the factory manual.

The way I performed the service was to crawl under the truck with a flashlight, a rack of metric sockets, 3/8 impact with a medium extension and a kiddie pool.

I cannot recommend this method for the faint of heart.

You will be covered in hot coolant but by the time you get out of the shower the truck will be drained and you can crawl back under and put the plug back in.

I used some Teflon tape on mine, I think or at least I thought about it. Anyway I put 2 gal of Dex and about 2 or so of distilled in the overflow tank and started it topped it off etc. Drove to Texas

for what its worth I changed at 35000 ish and I used Dex cool because I had some I am not in love with the stuff and will change to a good diesel specific coolant next time but I always change about 30,000 to 35,000 miles.

jim
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  #20  
Old 10-02-2010, 04:46 PM
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It almost looks as if you could use a long extension and get it from a safe distance (out of the shower). Looks to be maybe a 15mm ?
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  #21  
Old 10-02-2010, 04:52 PM
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i pulled the lower hose filled and drained with water and coolant flush then filled and drained water about a dozen times with the truck running. then refilled with power cool
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  #22  
Old 10-02-2010, 04:58 PM
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Another thing is, half the post say use drinking water and the other distilled water? What's power cool ?
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  #23  
Old 10-02-2010, 05:13 PM
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normal water is fine.

power cool is was heavy duty commercial trucks use. it can be tested and take additives to recharge it when the protecting properties break down. you can also add a coolant filter that has charge packets in it that will only break down and release when they encounter a situation where they are needed.



very cool stuff. no downsides that i have found yet.
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Old 10-02-2010, 05:16 PM
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  #25  
Old 10-02-2010, 06:15 PM
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Nice. I may see what they want for a gallon . was planning on stopping by anyway as our DD dealer is also the Allison dealer
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  #26  
Old 10-02-2010, 06:25 PM
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same here detroit / allison thats where i get all my special stuff for inventing new shit
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  #27  
Old 10-02-2010, 10:48 PM
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As far as tap water, it should be fine to flush the engine with, but on the final fill you'll probably want to use distilled water, especially if you have hard water.

It's only like $1 a gallon, just pick up 5 gallons on the way to get the coolant and be done with it! I figure $5 is worth 100,000 miles of peace of mind
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  #28  
Old 10-03-2010, 12:09 AM
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Before you pull the lower hose, loosen the "radiator" cap to make sure there is no pressure on the system then tighten it back up. Next get the clip out of the channel. Now carefully start to slip the hose back off the radiator, just enough that the coolant can start to drain. When you first pop the hose loose, there will be a big gush of coolant at first, but it should slow down pretty quick. You can now use the cap to regulate the flow of coolant. Loosen it a little to get more flow and tighten it back down to slow it. Obviously, you will want a bucket or some sort of catch pan under the radiator. It also helps if you put a piece of cardboard or something behind the hose to kind of act as a funnel to direct any water from splashing toward the back of the truck.
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Originally Posted by DAVe3283 View Post
As far as tap water, it should be fine to flush the engine with, but on the final fill you'll probably want to use distilled water, especially if you have hard water.

It's only like $1 a gallon, just pick up 5 gallons on the way to get the coolant and be done with it! I figure $5 is worth 100,000 miles of peace of mind
I was about to post the same thing. Either buy the 50/50 pre-mix antifreeze or use distilled water for the correct mix. You probably won't have an issue if you don't, but it is cheap insurance.
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  #29  
Old 10-03-2010, 12:56 PM
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I would only use distilled water other then for the flush. The tap water is Socal is so bad it would trash radiators in our equipment in months.
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  #30  
Old 10-03-2010, 03:53 PM
keith2500hd keith2500hd is offline
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i would use distilled water with new coolant, water treatment chemicals can screw up antifreeze properties. i have used shop vac to put suction on tank prior to removing hose or plug. use rope, bunge or kid to hold in filler opening.
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