Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 01-01-2009, 04:56 PM
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How hard are the fenders on the OBS trucks to get off? I had some body work done and need to adjust them and dont have the slightest clue how.
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  #32  
Old 01-01-2009, 05:01 PM
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DOH!!!!!!!!!!

Bolted from underneath!!! Hmmm... Wonder if I can leave the lower part in then while removing just the top cross bar.
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  #33  
Old 01-01-2009, 05:04 PM
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From above:


Below:
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  #34  
Old 01-01-2009, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIKDMAX View Post
DOH!!!!!!!!!!

Bolted from underneath!!! Hmmm... Wonder if I can leave the lower part in then while removing just the top cross bar.
You can remove just the top bar, but I think you still need to take off the fender?
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  #35  
Old 01-01-2009, 05:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NelsonDiesel View Post
how do you know?


I know a guy, that took some pictures for me
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17' Denali HD CCSB Z71 Stock

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06' Sierra LBZ RCLB 4X4, Mike L. Trans, EFI Live, McRat Racing Tune 12.25@111.30
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  #36  
Old 01-01-2009, 05:19 PM
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COOL!

You dont have to touch the fenders now. Makes life a bit easier for you.
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  #37  
Old 01-01-2009, 05:36 PM
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Ya I dont think Ill need to take the fender off.... Its ready to come off besides 2 bolts in the doorjam and the hood hinge. I havent taken the hood off yet - wonder if I will have to? Probably to clear the arm of the cherry picker.

My moms coming over to my house in a bit... I gotta close the hood and rest the grille back in place and everything will look A OK
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  #38  
Old 01-01-2009, 06:03 PM
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No, you wont need to take the fender off. The core support should be a big, open hole after you unbolt that top beam.

As for the hood, does your hood have an extra hole and/or hook next to the hinges like in the pic of mine? If so, I remember Merchant telling me that you move the hinges to the other holes or hooks to hold the hood straight up for service. You'll have to experiment to see which ones hold the hood straight up. I'm pretty sure its the hooks, but am not completely sure. Just have to test carefully. Have a friend help. Watch your windshield.


Dont lie to Mom....bad things happen if you do....as she'll ALWAYS find out. Moms have that talent...better than police...its scary.
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"BBT" -- 2003 GMC CC/SB 4x4 12.14@111.15
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Reality is a matter of perspective.

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Last edited by TheBac; 09-28-2009 at 03:27 AM.
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  #39  
Old 01-01-2009, 06:15 PM
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Oh theyll find out... just need to hold it off for a month or two.
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  #40  
Old 01-01-2009, 06:16 PM
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NBS do not have the provision to have the hood straight up.
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  #41  
Old 01-01-2009, 06:18 PM
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Bummer! Next time a buddy is over Ill pull it. That needs to be done before the fender comes off anyway due to the hinge attachment. I may take the fender off just to give me a little more working room..... well see. Thanks for the help so far guys.

Anything you guys that have done this before might be able to anticipate Ill have an issue with as I continue on? I know Im not looking forward to the transmission/engine seperation.
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Carillos, Mahles, ARP 625s, SoCal Cam, Stage 1 Heads, 60% sticks, PPE Dual CP3, HTT 66SS/GT4718R Stainless Steel Twins, PPE High Flow Intake Manifold, Up Pipes and Headers. 6" MBRP single stack. Mike L. Suncoast 4 w/ 1057
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  #42  
Old 01-01-2009, 06:19 PM
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lmm dont have tht extra hole for the hood. imo its way easier to remove the core support with every thing atached. pull the pasanger side fender gives you so much more room to work to get converter bolts out and starter. and bell houseing bolts. and othe misc items. the more things you can leave bolted in sections the better imo makes life simpler. but some people like to do it a certain way. I got it down to 5 hrs motor out by my self.
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  #43  
Old 01-01-2009, 06:20 PM
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trans and engine comes apart easy just make sure you get all the bell houseing bolts. if the motor is stuck you missed a bolt
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  #44  
Old 01-01-2009, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NelsonDiesel View Post
NBS do not have the provision to have the hood straight up.

If I look at the engine removal procedure for an LMM on alldatadiy.com it says:

1.Open the hood.
2.Remove the ground strap from the stud.
3.Assemble 2 sets of the following: an M6 bolt, 2 each 19.05 mm (0.75 in) flat washers and an M6 nut.
4.Release the retainer securing the hood strut rod to the hood strut bracket stud.
5.Remove the air inlet grille end caps (1), lift the end cap up in order to disengage the retainers. (left side shown, right side similar).
6.Have an assistant support the hood.
7.Remove the hood hinge bolts (2) and set aside.
8.Raise the hood until the service position notch (1) in the upper hinge is reached.
9.Install the 2 sets of the M6 bolts to both the left and right side service notches and tighten finger tight. Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice.
10.Lower the hood until the bolts rest against the lower hinge, tighten the bolts to secure the hood. Tighten the bolts to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
11.The hood is now set in the service position.

It looks like you unbolt the hinges that have the clocksprings and if you look back behind there are "hooks" on the other part of the bracket.

Is this not right?
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  #45  
Old 01-01-2009, 08:53 PM
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Here ya go. It's works.... I was bored and wondering. I didn't take the plastic trim off so I didn't actually put the M6 bolts in, but it looks like it works. Notice the hook that my finger and thumb is pointing too, that's where the bolt, washer, and nut go. there's one on each side of the truck.

The bad part in the instructions I have is that there are not any hood struts

Notice my assistant.... he works cheap and doesn't complain. In fact he's still out there holding the hood up



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