Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 05-14-2017, 06:44 PM
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Originally Posted by rddooley92 View Post
Yessir even tried 2 of them

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I know it's beaten to death, where did you get the sensors??

FWIW, I bought 3 boost sensors from Napa and they ended up being baro sensors, I had to get the right one from a guy online who had a new GM sensor.
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05' Black Chevy CC/SB LT- Blackout Performance built motor/trans/tuning- Gone

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  #32  
Old 05-14-2017, 06:58 PM
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Block isnt painted I did think of a ground so I put one from the block to the frame. One sensor was cheap AutoZone and the other is a oem sensor

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Last edited by rddooley92; 05-15-2017 at 03:24 PM.
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  #33  
Old 05-14-2017, 07:02 PM
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Block is painted I did think it grounds so I put one from the block to the frame. One sensor was cheap AutoZone and the other is a oem sensor

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There are many more than 1 ground on that block. There are 4 maybe 5 eyelets that connect to bosses at the bottoms of the block. One little one on pass side is a key ground for the ecm to work correctly. It to mention the battery's ground to both sides of the block. I would clean those bosses and then reconnect them all. There have been a few guys who painted the block and then had ground issues that stopped the truck from running or working correctly.
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  #34  
Old 05-14-2017, 07:08 PM
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Block is painted I did think it grounds so I put one from the block to the frame. One sensor was cheap AutoZone and the other is a oem sensor

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10-4, I'm out of options other than kick the **** out of the fender and call someone.
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05' Black Chevy CC/SB LT- Blackout Performance built motor/trans/tuning- Gone

The Blessed Hellride- 08' White GMC Sierra SLT CC/SB,
100k miles. Piston eater.

Wife's ride- 2016 Pearl white Legacy limited 3.6R

Rig ride/new DD-02' Black Eddie Bauer explorer 4.6, -180k, still sporting original trans, outlasted two Duramaxs.
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  #35  
Old 05-15-2017, 06:15 AM
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Do you have the tone wheel on it? It's a yellow zinc/cadmium color that goes on with 4-5 bolts on the front of the gear. I don't see it anywhere in the pics. That's what the cam position is timed from


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  #36  
Old 05-15-2017, 06:16 AM
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Yes it's on torqued to spec with locktight

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  #37  
Old 05-16-2017, 10:35 AM
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I'd ohm the harness too


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  #38  
Old 05-16-2017, 10:43 AM
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Twist the wires together would be a good start point aswell! Kind of self shield that way


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  #39  
Old 07-07-2017, 12:10 PM
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I just had a similar case. After building this LMM got P0341 and start and stall. I was sure timing and reluctor plates were installed correctly, but double checked by peeping through the cam and crank sensor holes. As expected all was correct. Ohmed out the cam and crank circuits all OK. Checked cam and crank sensor depth/clearance OK. Checked on the scan tool that cam and crank sensor show yes for signal when cranking. The problem- Cam sensor must be partially faulty. When I would rotate the cam sensor a 1/4 turn left it fired up. Set it back to line up the bolt hole and problem reoccurs. Since the cam and crank sensors are the same length, I swapped them to see what would happen. It started right up. So somehow the cam sensor must be failing and not reading an adequate signal in its original position.

JUst posting this here in case it might help someone down the line.
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  #40  
Old 10-09-2017, 05:53 PM
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I will try that tommorow 4 shops have looked at this truck and no-one can figure it out. I ordered a new ecm and it still will not start. Sorry just signed back into the forums an seen your post. If it only fires with the cam sensor turned his did you keep it there with the bolt not lining up?

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  #41  
Old 10-26-2017, 12:56 PM
acprokeith acprokeith is offline
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Any luck either of you? I'm willing to try anything at this point. Same symptoms and results with an LBZ

Been through the entire truck, harness from sensor to ecm has continuity, 5v signal is there, ground is too. Tried a new ecm, few new cam sensors, new crank sensor (from GM), checked both crank and cam reluctor wheels by hand and by sight (cam with a bore scope). Replaced cam sensor pigtail with one from GM. Just cranks and throws 0340. If you're real lucky you might get a 0341. Nothing bad we can find. Been through all the flow charts, and used the alldata troubleshooting methods.

Found a few chaffed wires that go to other unrelated circuits. Repaired them, although they didn't appear to have been shorting together, or to ground. I'm thinking the cam reluctor wheel may have come loose then stuck/bound itself up on the gear again? Never been into one of these, and was hoping not to, lol.

Got a friend with a scan tool coming by. Will update this with the results. Please post up any ideas or fixes. Thank you.
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  #42  
Old 01-17-2018, 11:30 AM
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I'm in the same spot with an LMM; I assume some of these vehicles have started since the beginning of the thread!

Built an '09 LMM and got it all together and we got the P0341 with no other codes. I've monitored the cam signal vs the crank signal with an osciloscope, looked through the cam sensor hole to make sure everything was good and checked the wiring and found no issues. We've changed the cam sensor with no change. This is not our first rodeo; we've built numerous different kinds of engines and specialize in figuring out weird issues but this has me stumped.

This engine was rebuilt after a piston failed and I'm beginning to wonder if the spring in the cam gear was pounded when the engine came apart...could this cause the issue? Anyone?
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  #43  
Old 01-17-2018, 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by C10Racer View Post
I'm in the same spot with an LMM; I assume some of these vehicles have started since the beginning of the thread!

Built an '09 LMM and got it all together and we got the P0341 with no other codes. I've monitored the cam signal vs the crank signal with an osciloscope, looked through the cam sensor hole to make sure everything was good and checked the wiring and found no issues. We've changed the cam sensor with no change. This is not our first rodeo; we've built numerous different kinds of engines and specialize in figuring out weird issues but this has me stumped.

This engine was rebuilt after a piston failed and I'm beginning to wonder if the spring in the cam gear was pounded when the engine came apart...could this cause the issue? Anyone?
You are getting the full cam signal at the right time? I'd bet it's a harness issue. Wire plug should have 5v on one terminal, ground in center, and 5 volts on the other as well (signal to the ecm has 5v on it on mine). Have you looked at the pin out on alldata and checked the harness against it? It is what got me confused. I found 5v on one terminal, ground on center, and nothing on the other. I ASSumed the wire with 5v was my 5v ref signal wire, but it was my ecm (backfeed or whatever). Once I learned via the alldata pinout, that it was actually my ECM wire that had 5v, it wasn't hard to determine that I lost the 5v ref signal.

After days of testing and troubleshooting, along with an intermittent signal from the cam sensor showed on the scan tool, I went back to basics. I jumped the 5v ref signal wire between the engine side of the valve cover bail connector, and the cam sensor connector. Bam it fired up. Seems the 5v signal was lost after it T's off to numerous other sensors, and finally goes to the cam sensor. So I cut the 5v wire on the engine side of the plug (as I figured it might be grounding where broken), and jumped to the cam sensor 5v wire, and tried to start it. Nothing but codes from sensors with no 5v ref signal. This told me that somewhere after that wire feeds 5v to the other sensors, it was broken. It must have a few T's or junctions I can't access. Without tearing the top of the motor off it seemed, I could not find any damage to the wire. We replaced the cam sensor plug and rewired the 5v ref signal to it from the valve cover bail connector. Used sheilded wire and ran it with a little more sense than the factory. Has worked so far with no codes or issues. Hope this helps you or somebody out in the future. I can usually figure these crazy wiring issues out, but this one took 5 days of my time. Wish I would have gotten alldatadiy sooner.

I replaced an ECM that had to be tuned and VIN licensed by ATP and Idaho Rob, yet obviously that wasn't it. Also changed the crank and cam sensor a few times. Gotta say thanks to ATP for getting it tuned and sent out the same day, even after I called in the middle of the afternoon. Then taking it back after I didn't need it, and refunding me all but tuning/time costs. They also let me pick their brains for a good 20 minutes. That says a lot. Glad I used them for my EFI live. Thanks http://atptrucks.com/


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  #44  
Old 01-17-2018, 12:20 PM
C10Racer C10Racer is offline
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Originally Posted by acprokeith View Post
You are getting the full cam signal at the right time? I'd bet it's a harness issue. Wire plug should have 5v on one terminal, ground in center, and 5 volts on the other as well (signal to the ecm has 5v on it on mine). Have you looked at the pin out on alldata and checked the harness against it? It is what got me confused. I found 5v on one terminal, ground on center, and nothing on the other. I ASSumed the wire with 5v was my 5v ref signal wire, but it was my ecm (backfeed or whatever). Once I learned via the alldata pinout, that it was actually my ECM wire that had 5v, it wasn't hard to determine that I lost the 5v ref signal.

After days of testing and troubleshooting, along with an intermittent signal from the cam sensor showed on the scan tool, I went back to basics. I jumped the 5v ref signal wire between the engine side of the valve cover bail connector, and the cam sensor connector. Bam it fired up. Seems the 5v signal was lost after it T's off to numerous other sensors, and finally goes to the cam sensor. So I cut the 5v wire on the engine side of the plug (as I figured it might be grounding where broken), and jumped to the cam sensor 5v wire, and tried to start it. Nothing but codes from sensors with no 5v ref signal. This told me that somewhere after that wire feeds 5v to the other sensors, it was broken. It must have a few T's or junctions I can't access. Without tearing the top of the motor off it seemed, I could not find any damage to the wire. We replaced the cam sensor plug and rewired the 5v ref signal to it from the valve cover bail connector. Used sheilded wire and ran it with a little more sense than the factory. Has worked so far with no codes or issues. Hope this helps you or somebody out in the future. I can usually figure these crazy wiring issues out, but this one took 5 days of my time. Wish I would have gotten alldatadiy sooner.

I replaced an ECM that had to be tuned and VIN licensed by ATP and Idaho Rob, yet obviously that wasn't it. Also changed the crank and cam sensor a few times. Gotta say thanks to ATP for getting it tuned and sent out the same day, even after I called in the middle of the afternoon. Then taking it back after I didn't need it, and refunding me all but tuning/time costs. They also let me pick their brains for a good 20 minutes. That says a lot. Glad I used them for my EFI live. Thanks http://atptrucks.com/

At the right time I can't confirm 100% but it does APPEAR to be at the right time; I'm trying to get a-hold of another LMM for testing. On the harness I'm getting 5V on both outside terminals and 0V in the middle and we are getting a BEAUTIFUL signal from the cam sensor at the ECM; I've overlaid the signals from and cam and the crank and they look great. We have compared 5V reference voltage from the cam and crank sensors and also found no anomalous readings there.

We've got prodemand here which is Mitchell's version of Alldata and have run pinout tests throughout the system and have found zero anomalies.
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  #45  
Old 01-17-2018, 04:31 PM
acprokeith acprokeith is offline
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Originally Posted by C10Racer View Post
At the right time I can't confirm 100% but it does APPEAR to be at the right time; I'm trying to get a-hold of another LMM for testing. On the harness I'm getting 5V on both outside terminals and 0V in the middle and we are getting a BEAUTIFUL signal from the cam sensor at the ECM; I've overlaid the signals from and cam and the crank and they look great. We have compared 5V reference voltage from the cam and crank sensors and also found no anomalous readings there.

We've got prodemand here which is Mitchell's version of Alldata and have run pinout tests throughout the system and have found zero anomalies.

Been thinking about this. Has the cam's reluctor wheel spun possibly? Getting 2 pings from the crankshaft sensor for every 1 of the camshaft? I know they come loose on the LBZ's, but I haven't seen how the LMM's work. Curious about this spring you mentioned too.

Mine would have cam signal and then loose it, but never would start. Seems it want's to see the signal a few times at the same-ish speed before it fires the injectors. Not sure on the details though. We typically got 3-4 good "pings" off of it, and then nothing.

I'd take the ECM out of the other truck and try it. Try yours in it. At least it will rule it out. It can't be the sensor, or the wiring (it appears), so it has to be the ECM or a mechanical issue between the sensor and camshaft. At least that's what would make sense.

Seems these Duramax's make you earn the chit eating grin they put on your face. Mine was a brain bending, 100's of open ended threads reading, PITA.
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