Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #76  
Old 12-02-2017, 12:49 AM
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rcr1978 rcr1978 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcr1978 View Post
Stock LB7 pump pops the seat at 55-56 psi
Melling 68psi
Now this is a air check and it is at the point it just cracks off the seat the releif port is not physically open much just enough to leak air, I have no idea what it would be with fluid pressure to actually be open enough to blead off a decent amount off fluid but should be close.
Adding some new found info: LML oil pump press relief valve pops at 88psi and reseats at about 66-68psi.
LML oil pump gears are the same diameter and tooth count as the previous years, the gears are just taller I think it's around .080" will have to check my notes.

Pressure relief in the timing cover of a LB7 starts bleeding air at 30psi= very small amount, it gradually bleeds more the closer to 65psi it gets. The ports are just barely visable at 65 psi, I don't think it bleeds much oil until it hits that.
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  #77  
Old 12-03-2017, 12:29 AM
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Lb7 piston squirters are .063" and open at 25psi, LML are .083" and open at 30psi.
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04 LB7 ECSB Built motor, Wagler billet narrowed Rods, Callies billet crank, Mahle Race Cast pistons, Randy's Girdle, Wagler/Callies Stage 1 alterfire cam, Exergy 100% SAC's, dual CP3's, Randy's race ported heads, Profab cast flow/up pipes, and S475 over stock twins for now more later.
2010 LMM CCLB-Tuning/Exhaust
2015 LML Cab and chassis- Tuning/Exhaust
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  #78  
Old 12-15-2017, 04:28 PM
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kidturbo kidturbo is offline
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Nice updates.

Guess I forgot to post some pics of the last LBZ to LML pump swap we did using LML front cover and pans this time.

Since the LML balancer has a different counter weight, we had to cut down an ATI hub to bring everything back in line. But was certainly easier than cutting down a pump again. This method only requires shimming the reluctor ring, and cutting a damper hub to use LBZ accessory mounting locations.

I think the amount of the shim, and what we removed from hub, was 0.185 where it meets the crank gear. In pics below. I'll verify that number and post it. Below you can see diff between an early model and LML damper. However, the visible difference is to the OUTSIDE edge.

As to pump mods above, we double washer shimmed an LML pump this time. That was a bit overkill. She made 90psi at cranking, holds 60psi hot idle now.. But for this application, running synthetic oil, I think it will be fine. Just working that front cover bypass valves a bit.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 20170824_215317.jpg (111.8 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg 20170824_195300.jpg (95.1 KB, 41 views)
File Type: jpg 20170824_194604.jpg (142.3 KB, 45 views)
File Type: jpg 20170824_194634.jpg (103.9 KB, 40 views)

Last edited by kidturbo; 12-15-2017 at 09:58 PM.
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  #79  
Old 12-15-2017, 07:40 PM
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IOWA LLY IOWA LLY is offline
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Are you sure about that? Maybe Iím misunderstanding what your saying?

I put an LML short block in an LLY years ago and we had to spacer out the accessory brackets to make the belt line up. So Iím a little confused about what your saying.


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2009 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion
2010 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion
2011 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion
2012 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion

Big thanks to everyone who helps me.

Best 1/8th, 7.29, 98.6MPH (Street tires, fuel only, single Journal bearing GT42 charger) (2010)

Best 1/8th, 6.93, 104.24MPH (Street tires, fuel only, single HX60 turbo) (2016)

Best 1/8th, 6.60, 106.6MPH (Street tires, fuel only, single HX60 turbo) (2017)
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  #80  
Old 12-15-2017, 09:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IOWA LLY View Post
Are you sure about that? Maybe Iím misunderstanding what your saying?

I put an LML short block in an LLY years ago and we had to spacer out the accessory brackets to make the belt line up. So Iím a little confused about what your saying.


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Na your correct.. Guess I worded that wrong on accessories brackets.

The damper thickness difference is actually to the outside edge, belt rib distance to cover side is identical. See pic above ^. Right is LML. We just didn't have any LML brackets to try at the moment...

Our first thought was also to just space the brackets out to line up with ribs on damper in the new location. Same as you did using LML long block. Would work in a complete engine swap. However I noticed a gap between end of crank and end of damper that bothered me. That's when I noticed GM also machined down the center damper area behind counter weight about the difference of new pump thickness.

We actually bolted up an LML damper just to have a look. End of crank snout was even with damper face where washer meets. But as you can see in pics below, distance between the ATI LBZ damper and a factory LML damper on crank snout is huge..

So if using block, crank, and damper from pre-LML, with LML front cover and pump mod, it would also set the belt out a .180 -.200 and require LML brackets or some spacers. Not recommended because it moves the weight out same distance also.

However,, since ya can't uses the LML damper on LMM internals, only decent option is run a matching damper. According to ATI website, the outer assembly was a different part #. So I ordered that one, but once it arrived it, was identical to LBZ unit we had...

Ok, so last option was, machine down the existing hub, which moved the belt ribs back in LBZ lineup. But it also closed that gap between snout to washer, and more importantly, moves the counterweight weight back to factory location from end of crank.

I'll edit that post above.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg LBZvsLMM.jpg (122.1 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg LMLonLBZ.jpg (189.0 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg Damper_Before.jpg (148.1 KB, 42 views)
File Type: jpg Damper_After.jpg (163.2 KB, 42 views)
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  #81  
Old 12-16-2017, 08:06 AM
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IOWA LLY IOWA LLY is offline
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Gotcha. Very good info! Thank you for taking the time to share!

I assume that there is no clearance issues between the damper and the front cover after you move the damper closer to the cover like your describing?


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2003 GMC CCSB LLY
Built by me, tuned by me.

2009 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion
2010 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion
2011 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion
2012 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion

Big thanks to everyone who helps me.

Best 1/8th, 7.29, 98.6MPH (Street tires, fuel only, single Journal bearing GT42 charger) (2010)

Best 1/8th, 6.93, 104.24MPH (Street tires, fuel only, single HX60 turbo) (2016)

Best 1/8th, 6.60, 106.6MPH (Street tires, fuel only, single HX60 turbo) (2017)
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  #82  
Old 12-16-2017, 12:22 PM
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kidturbo kidturbo is offline
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All good to the cover side. At least with the ATI setup. Using a damper without removable hub might involve a bit more machine work.

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  #83  
Old 12-16-2017, 01:30 PM
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IOWA LLY IOWA LLY is offline
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Sweet. I think I will doing one this way next go around.

Another question, this pump you say you used 2 washers to shim it. How thick were the washers?


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2003 GMC CCSB LLY
Built by me, tuned by me.

2009 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion
2010 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion
2011 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion
2012 ECI Diesel Truck Points Champion

Big thanks to everyone who helps me.

Best 1/8th, 7.29, 98.6MPH (Street tires, fuel only, single Journal bearing GT42 charger) (2010)

Best 1/8th, 6.93, 104.24MPH (Street tires, fuel only, single HX60 turbo) (2016)

Best 1/8th, 6.60, 106.6MPH (Street tires, fuel only, single HX60 turbo) (2017)
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  #84  
Old 12-17-2017, 07:25 AM
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juddski88 juddski88 is offline
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The easiest way to go about it when building a new short block for an earlier gen truck is just use an earlier gen balancer and have the rotating assembly balanced with it. I've had customers get all their short block parts by themselves even from big players and DD site vendors, and they get sold the lml balancer because they mention thats the crank they chose to run on their older gen truck. Then they run into having to make the same decision as you did, either space the brackets out or turn down the balancer hub because dealing with exchanging parts with a company across the country is not exactly timely.
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