Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #16  
Old 08-01-2017, 10:01 AM
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They are the same thing. Accumulator is the correct term, while freon is not

It's a common term, and technically it does "dry" the system.

If you don't remove the condenser, when you spray cleaner through it, it will just lay in the bottom. Much better off removing it. The evap you don't really have a choice unless you REALLY feel like removing it, I doubt that any got past the condenser but you better check
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  #17  
Old 08-01-2017, 10:10 AM
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Originally Posted by zakkb787 View Post
Forgive my ignorance but what exactly is a drier? I know of the accumulator which is the silver canister in the firewall, the evaporator that's inside the firewall, and condensor in the cooling stack. So I just take 2 lines loose and spray the cleaner in it. And then blow it out till it's clean?
sorry, accumulator is what 01-02 trucks use. the 03 and up use a drier.

yes, you may have to do that a few times to get everything out. do not open the accumulator till you are ready to throw it on and have the system vac down and filled quickly. after an hour or so of being open to the atmosphere or in a system that has been open and cleaned like you are doing, the desiccant no longer becomes effective.

i would leave the old accu. on the truck while you clean everything out and take it down to get the truck done, then have the tech either swap it on or plan with the tech that soon as you bring it down, it puts the truck on a vac to boil out the moisture. once its on a vac and running, you are safe.

this sounds like a pain and a ton of steps but it will net you the best performing system possible. there are guys who have gotten away without changing the accu or receiver/drier, never done a vac of the system, never cleaned their shit out after a compressor let loose and so on but the life expectancy of those systems are not very long. i have touched the system in my truck twice and my dad bought this truck new in 01.5. once for the orifice tube dieing per a GM TSB years ago and causing shitty a/c, second was when i built the motor. besides the accu and orifice tube being replaced, i have never touched another hard part nor needed to. going on 5 years now since the system was recharged with the new engine and still will freeze you out of the truck or start freezing the evap up on humid days and low blower speed.
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  #18  
Old 08-01-2017, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by PureHybrid View Post
They are the same thing. Accumulator is the correct term, while freon is not

It's a common term, and technically it does "dry" the system.

If you don't remove the condenser, when you spray cleaner through it, it will just lay in the bottom. Much better off removing it. The evap you don't really have a choice unless you REALLY feel like removing it, I doubt that any got past the condenser but you better check
actually there is a difference between the two. they both serve different purposes but do share some jobs.
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Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #19  
Old 08-01-2017, 10:34 AM
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actually there is a difference between the two. they both serve different purposes but do share some jobs.
Yes, there's a difference. I told him they were the same because that's what you meant with your terminology. And I don't believe the gm trucks ever used a TRUE receiver / drier? (On the high side).
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  #20  
Old 08-01-2017, 10:45 AM
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I'd recommend flushing the system with denatured alcohol. How do you plan on pulling a vacuum and recharging the system after the parts are replaced?
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  #21  
Old 08-01-2017, 11:55 AM
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Okay great thanks guys. Sounds like a pain but hey wish I woulda known all this before. And I'm taking it to a body shop with a recovery/refrigerant/oiling machine
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  #22  
Old 08-01-2017, 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
sorry, accumulator is what 01-02 trucks use. the 03 and up use a drier.

yes, you may have to do that a few times to get everything out. do not open the accumulator till you are ready to throw it on and have the system vac down and filled quickly. after an hour or so of being open to the atmosphere or in a system that has been open and cleaned like you are doing, the desiccant no longer becomes effective.

i would leave the old accu. on the truck while you clean everything out and take it down to get the truck done, then have the tech either swap it on or plan with the tech that soon as you bring it down, it puts the truck on a vac to boil out the moisture. once its on a vac and running, you are safe.

this sounds like a pain and a ton of steps but it will net you the best performing system possible. there are guys who have gotten away without changing the accu or receiver/drier, never done a vac of the system, never cleaned their shit out after a compressor let loose and so on but the life expectancy of those systems are not very long. i have touched the system in my truck twice and my dad bought this truck new in 01.5. once for the orifice tube dieing per a GM TSB years ago and causing shitty a/c, second was when i built the motor. besides the accu and orifice tube being replaced, i have never touched another hard part nor needed to. going on 5 years now since the system was recharged with the new engine and still will freeze you out of the truck or start freezing the evap up on humid days and low blower speed.
So don't put the new accumulator on until I'm at the shops and ready for it to be vacuumed and charged?

Edit: sorry for all the ignorance and questions. So my plan is to spray brake cleaner through the lines, evaporator, and condenser. Then blow them out with air. Then put it all back together. We have a vacuum pump here at the house. So vacuum it for a few hours. Can I just pour oil into the compressor? If so I can just put the r134 in here as we have a canister of it. But if not take it to a shop, install the accumulator in the parking lot. And have them vacuum it for a bit then put 134 and a few ounces of oil in it. Correct?
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Last edited by zakkb787; 08-01-2017 at 06:01 PM.
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  #23  
Old 08-01-2017, 09:40 PM
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Any system that uses an orifice tube uses an accumulator. An accumulator contains a dessicant in it to catch and hold any stray moisture in the system, but it also acts as a storage vessel/buffer. An accumulator holds liquid refrigerant in it to act as a cushion in an orifice tube system. With a fixxed orifice at low rpm's you have to be able to hold extra liquid refrigerant so when rpm's increase, the compressor doesn't just pull the low side down and rapid cycle(hence the term accumulator as it accumulates excess charge for low rpm operation, then when rpm's increase there is extra refrigerant to keep the compressor running). It also has a buffer design in it to prevent too much liquid refrigerant from entering the line going back to the compressor. A drier is much smaller by design as they are typically installed in the high pressure liquid line with an thermal expansion valve of some kind to vary refrigerant flow across the rom range vs a fixxed orifice. So it doesn't need to hold but a very small charge and a dessicant in it, and no need for a liquid buffer since it is not installed in the suction line.

As to which brand, if it's for an 02, putti,g an ac delco r6 back in is just asking for trouble in the future. Ac delco, delphi, and most of the others sell an oem design r6 where the center section is not pinned. They have earned the name belly leakers because of this. GPD makes a compressor that looks almost identical, but it has a pinned center section to stop the belly leaking issues, and they also turn easier than a stock r6 for reduced initial loading. I tried a sanden, but like many others of late, it lost the shaft seal in just 2 years. I replaced it with a GPD quite awhile back, and have nothing but good to say about them and all of them I've installed(which is alot more than I can say for ac delco r6's).
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Old 08-01-2017, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zakkb787 View Post
So don't put the new accumulator on until I'm at the shops and ready for it to be vacuumed and charged?

Edit: sorry for all the ignorance and questions. So my plan is to spray brake cleaner through the lines, evaporator, and condenser. Then blow them out with air. Then put it all back together. We have a vacuum pump here at the house. So vacuum it for a few hours. Can I just pour oil into the compressor? If so I can just put the r134 in here as we have a canister of it. But if not take it to a shop, install the accumulator in the parking lot. And have them vacuum it for a bit then put 134 and a few ounces of oil in it. Correct?
Correct, do not install the drier until you are ready to close the sytem. And do not use brake cleen. That will most certainly destroy the barrier wall inside of your refrigerant hoses. You can buy ac flush at most any large parts store. You can use either nitrogen or r-11 if you have access to it to prevent adding moistute to the system when flushing. Or fill the lines with flush, and blow them out with clean compressed air(it needs to be dry air, so make sure you use a compressor with a cooler and water seperator on it). If you don't have access to these kinds of tools, it is best to leave this job to somebody who does. A/C work isn't hard, but you need to be very carefull about introducing moisture. And if there is any question of moisture in the system, you need a pump that can pull down to the double digits at leadt on a micron gauge, and hold the vacuum for at leadt 45 minutes to an hour to boil the mousture out of the system.
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  #25  
Old 08-02-2017, 04:55 AM
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FERM. Rock auto has 2 part numbers for GPD compressors. 6512125 and 6511338. Are either of these the correct part?
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  #26  
Old 08-02-2017, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR View Post
Correct, do not install the accumulator until you are ready to close the sytem. And do not use brake cleen. That will most certainly destroy the barrier wall inside of your refrigerant hoses. You can buy ac flush at most any large parts store. You can use either nitrogen or r-11 if you have access to it to prevent adding moistute to the system when flushing. Or fill the lines with flush, and blow them out with clean compressed air(it needs to be dry air, so make sure you use a compressor with a cooler and water seperator on it). If you don't have access to these kinds of tools, it is best to leave this job to somebody who does. A/C work isn't hard, but you need to be very carefull about introducing moisture. And if there is any question of moisture in the system, you need a pump that can pull down to the double digits at leadt on a micron gauge, and hold the vacuum for at leadt 45 minutes to an hour to boil the mousture out of the system.
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Mike L is my role model. I want to be like him when I grow up.
James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
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  #27  
Old 08-02-2017, 05:25 PM
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Anyone??
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Old 08-02-2017, 08:28 PM
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The 6511338 is the one thats been on my truck now for several years. Or you can get the 9611824 kit with most everything you need for a few dollars more. The other style is a sanden copy. I had troubles with shaft seals holding up on the sandens, and it is a much louder design. They did cool slightly better at idle, but not as cold running down the road. The sanden style also requires a pag 150 for most applications while the oem style works just fine on most any oil.
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  #29  
Old 08-03-2017, 03:52 AM
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The 6511338 is the one thats been on my truck now for several years. Or you can get the 9611824 kit with most everything you need for a few dollars more. The other style is a sanden copy. I had troubles with shaft seals holding up on the sandens, and it is a much louder design. They did cool slightly better at idle, but not as cold running down the road. The sanden style also requires a pag 150 for most applications while the oem style works just fine on most any oil.
Awesome thanks FERM!
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