Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #16  
Old 12-21-2008, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fast03 View Post
Lawrence, I am doing my boost gauge today and will go post IC. I am going to try to get set at 32psi with my bighead. I am trying to keep the turbo alive and be able to beat these california dodge pullers in the so called stock class. Getting EFI finally from Pat. so hopefully will ba able to try everything in Fontana in January
Steve
Steve, when dialin' in the boost settings do it with the A/C on. It makes a differance. With the A/C on you will see higher boost levels (I do anyway...). ...but then I also run a big tune as a daily driver...
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  #17  
Old 12-22-2008, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by WanaDmaxsub View Post
Steve, when dialin' in the boost settings do it with the A/C on. It makes a differance. With the A/C on you will see higher boost levels (I do anyway...). ...but then I also run a big tune as a daily driver...
Oh really? Another good trick to know....thanks wana!
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  #18  
Old 12-22-2008, 08:37 AM
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by passing the ficm will allow you to run more pressure to the CP3 also. But you will have to find a "presidential solution" for running fuel through it to keep it cool.
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  #19  
Old 12-22-2008, 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by 01Duramax6spd View Post
John: Do you feel a Billet Pickup or Mod'd CP3 as a benifit as well if one is on a stock motor and stock charger? I throw rail pressure codes with my 550hp tune .
All can help. But simply put the stock turbo runs out of air before the stock pump runs out of fuel. With more air the CP3 can support over 600rwhp.
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  #20  
Old 12-22-2008, 05:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duramaximizer View Post
by passing the ficm will allow you to run more pressure to the CP3 also. But you will have to find a "presidential solution" for running fuel through it to keep it cool.
you could put a tee in the supply line with a reg. going to the FICM & the other side teeing back into the line coming out of the module, probably need a check valve so it can't back feed.
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  #21  
Old 12-22-2008, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TheBac View Post
Oh really? Another good trick to know....thanks wana!
Weeeeeeeeeelllllll...Now that I have had a day to think about what I said...it doesn't make a lot of sense. The wastegate doesn't care if the A/C is on or off, or even what tune you have installed. All it cares about is pressure. When it see's whatever it's set at, it opens.

Disregard what I said....you should be able to set it up with an air pump and good gauge off the truck, then install it.

Sorry about that!
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#2 #04-06-04-007H TSB (Injectors) '01-'04 LB7's
#3 07057 Engine Glow Plug '02-'04 LB7's w/YF5/NE1 Special Coverage Adjustment
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  #22  
Old 12-23-2008, 01:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JOHNBOY View Post
BPU stands for Basic Performance Upgrades. These are modifications that don't require engine disassembly. Here is my list of basic power mods:

1: Tuning - EFILive, PPE, or custom EFI Live tunes. To get over 500RWHP I recommend EFI Live tuning done on a dyno. Every truck is different. What dynos well on one truck may not on another. Donít over look canned tuning as it might get you there.
.
2:4" exhaust with no cat front pipe and high flow muffler.
.
3: Lift pump - While some might be able to dyno well with out it is best to have one. It will help your CP3 live and will help you sustain rail pressure
.
4: Intake - A good aftermarket intake will help. I donít care for the stock LB7 intake. I donít care what the tests say. They dyno says my K&N FIPK made more power.
.
5: Gages: I recommend at least a boost gage. EGT and fuel pressure gages are nice.
.
6: Boost valve. Like the PPE valve can help. You want to get to 32 psi of boost on the gage. Some need the valve to get there some do not. Be careful the stock turbo will go boom at over 35psi pretty easily.
.
7: Auto Transmission upgrade or Clutch upgrade - The stock Allison will hate you at over 360RWHP. A good converter and internal upgrade kit is a must IMHO. The stock manual trans clutch is barely good for stock power. The Dual Mass flywheel is junk. You will want to upgrade both. Currently the only upgrades are from South Bend Clutch. A single disk will hold but for only so long. I recommend a Dual Disk.
Nice write up John
Quote:
Originally Posted by duramaximizer View Post
by passing the ficm will allow you to run more pressure to the CP3 also. But you will have to find a "presidential solution" for running fuel through it to keep it cool.
What does the Ficm have to do with it? It is just a pipe that flows through the case?
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  #23  
Old 12-23-2008, 08:22 PM
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More fuel to the CP3. No? Fuel pressure.
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  #24  
Old 12-23-2008, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by sweetdiesel View Post


What does the Ficm have to do with it? It is just a pipe that flows through the case?
Well I've had my pump running at 12-15 psi because i dont run a pressure regulator and fuel started leaking from the FICM case! Well i took it out and tighted the case screws up somw, were kinda loose and the leak stopped. So theres a hint right there, fuel does flow "freely" inside it otherwise why would it stop leaking from tightening the case? I didn't open it up to see inside but i would like to on a junker. Also, lots for guys say anything above 10psi causes a funny idle at times, well mine does sometimes but it could also be my modded FCA causing that. If not, i could only speculate its from too much pressure on the FICM circuts?

Also:
And if you tee'ed into the line for a cooling circut for it and regulated it down and add a check valve on the return...your going to get very little if any flow to cool it. It must return (empty) into a volute with lower pressure than regulated inlet psi to achive flow. And you wouldn't want to plumb its return to the trucks fuel return, because then your bleeding off fuel volume/psi that you want to keep. I wouldnt want to cool it with return fuel flow either, not enough volume and the fuels hot coming back out of the injection system. At the volt/amps the FICM runs at, i bet it gets pretty damn hot. Prolly the best way to cool the FICM is its own tiny isolated cooling system, filled with a light oil, or non water/soluable fluid or diesel again. A small resivour, small cooler, computer fan?, small pump.

I am working on such a system for my truck! I have a great pump sourced to use for it thats quiet, flows very good, pump is magnetic drive so no "coolant" through the motor.
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  #25  
Old 12-24-2008, 08:36 AM
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Nice write up John!! I would highly reccomend a fuel pick-up also. I would say that's way more important than the LBZ regulator for the new B's
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  #26  
Old 02-23-2009, 05:39 PM
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Looks like we should probably add Michael's modded turbo inlet to this list.
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  #27  
Old 08-18-2009, 09:20 AM
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Great info just what I was looking for.
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  #28  
Old 08-18-2009, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheBac View Post
Looks like we should probably add Michael's modded turbo inlet to this list.
good idea I need to get mine done.


Other than a lift pump I don't think anything needs to be done with the fuel system with a stock turbo. My truck held 3200pw with just a lift pump I have dropped it down to 2850 with the stock turbo because 3200 is a waste with the stock turbo imo
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  #29  
Old 11-27-2009, 03:47 PM
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should split the list into 2 parts, 1st bpu for 500hp & 2nd being bolt ons that get you close to 600.
add a downpipe & up pipes to the 600hp list
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  #30  
Old 12-02-2009, 11:00 PM
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thanks for the input fellas
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