Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 01-09-2018, 06:47 PM
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Default dsp 5 tune

Fingers is a very smart member that has posted a ton good info both here and DP. Canít recall other member screen names.

Any of the tuners posts are worth a read. Mark, McRat, Rob, Bobo... damn my brain is failing me at the moment.


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  #32  
Old 01-10-2018, 09:24 AM
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DSP is a great way to test N tune. Load your base tune for that session on 1 and load 4 candidates with minor changes of that base tune in the other 4. Now go play and log.

Something I did to help me out was wire in a push button to the input of the tuner. Then logged the button position. This let me flag areas of the log I wanted to take a closer look at by pushing the button. Much better than starting and stopping the logger since it gave information in context and happened instantly.
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  #33  
Old 01-10-2018, 11:26 AM
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^^ that's a great idea. I think I am going to have to do this on my V2
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  #34  
Old 01-10-2018, 01:10 PM
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Wow i missed some stuff lol

OP, keep at it. The cummins guys were "born into efi live" so to speak so they didnt have to fight to figure out how to tune from scratch. tuning has become much more main stream than way back in the early 2000's when EFI Live added the duramax platform to their software. a whole lot of discussions were born to figure out the tuning in these trucks, what works, what doesnt, how to do better and so on.... till guys started ripping people off using their hard work as tunes to sell or profit off those willing to help cause they are too lazy to figure it out. Cummins guys just assume let a professional tuner handle it since their are so many already (even when it first was released). now because of the struggles way back when, you have TONS of threads on here and DP that are full of good and bad info. be careful what info you take for good and bad from old threads on DP and even some here. Times have changed and tuning has evolved.

You do not ever want to mess with defueling of a shift unless you 100% know what you are doing (and even then, most guys dont play with it). Defueling must stay in place to keep your trans and driveline parts alive. the allison is not a 48re and can tie up in gears giving you bad/hard shifts, this is a tie up. rule of thumb is, if it does not shift like stock after 50-100 miles of driving (mainly on a built trans, sooner on a stock trans), you have an issue. Flash the stock tune back in to verify the bad shifts go away and that it is in fact a tune issue.

Do not try to "make boost" meaning, dont try to clamp the vanes down and get more boost out of the turbo. you can kinda fudge this some on smaller tunes but you will be creating high drive pressures and really not gaining much at all performance wise.

you can use the vanes as a "turbo brake" for towing if you do tow. there are threads here on how to do that.

biggest thing is to make sure you get rid of the limiters that hold the tune from doing what you want it to.

3250-3350 is considered the "absolute max" for pulse width when messing with fueling but reality is, your CP3 will not handle it unless its new. Tune the truck to hold withing 1-2k rail pressure from commanded (if you command 26k and the truck makes 24-25k, you are doing good), this will be your max fueling till you get a lift pump and/or dual fuelers/larger cp3. Your stock pistons will not like to be hammered on with fuel and timing to keep that in mind.

timing is generally how ever much PW you use at WOT at 3250RPM divided by 100. so if you are using a 1850uS tune, at 3250RPM you should have 18* of timing. You can get by with more in cruise areas and even inch a little more in on top end for smaller tunes but its not wise to go too much more with your stock pistons. Josh H calc on here is a GREAT way for you to get your timing dialed, then play with from there.

there is more but thats the time i have right now.
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  #35  
Old 01-10-2018, 01:22 PM
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^^ that's some good info right there. I especially like the rule of thumb about calculating timing.
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  #36  
Old 01-11-2018, 07:47 PM
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ok guys I have literally spent every second of spare time I could find reading and playing around. I took a stock tune and started from scratch, and think ive made a decent aggressive street tune. truck seems to run very well, no smoke other then a hard stomp down on it I did see some but nothing crazy. egts get up around 1500 if I stay into but I'm around 100 mph at that point so letting out anyways.

My biggest concern is figuring out how far I can push it, without crossing the line! Ive been using joshs timing calculator, thank god he made that and shared it, but man the cummins calculator is way easier!

I'm going to post MY tune and if you guys get time take look and give me some pointers on where you think I could benefit, I will say my mileage went from 13.5 to 19, I reset it and have driven 150 miles or so and wouldn't call them easy as I was doing wot runs and still reading 19. Find out when I fill up I guess.

My biggest questions I'm still trying to figure out is the altitude tables, and what i can do with the turbo vanes on the top end if anything? my boost seems to stay under 30 which is what i think i want to be around, so wasn't sure if should mess with that much or not. I will say it pulls hard from a dig all the way till i let out!

I deff want more info on that adding a button that would be an awesome addition! hell i just started using the bbx logging and thinks that great ive always just used the laptop and kept a pad of paper and made notes while driving, not best idea but hey it worked!

Thanks for that info in max uS and timing info been looking for that and most i could find said 2000us was make safe but i figured that was probably older trucks.

anyways now that i have wrote a novel heres the tune let me know what you guys think!
Attached Files
File Type: ctz LBZ 1 street_3.ctz (1.01 MB, 7 views)
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  #37  
Old 01-11-2018, 11:19 PM
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Do you have your EGR physically deleted or blocked? Using disable I have run into odd issues at cruise on an LMM that was still intact. I use the temperature enable.

Hand calculate your MPG to see if the DIC is lying. When you raise PW it starts to get optimistic.

Your PW table has an odd cell with 3660us

You seem to like a screaming whistle at idle!

The timing looks good in my opinion

Take this info with a grain of salt I am an amateur
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  #38  
Old 01-11-2018, 11:27 PM
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Fingers I assume is talking about logging the External analog inputs on the V2, wire a push button switch to one of the inputs on the bottom of the V2 and log it using the matching input from the External Analog PIDs folder when setting up BBX.
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  #39  
Old 01-11-2018, 11:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmc1025 View Post
Fingers I assume is talking about logging the External analog inputs on the V2, wire a push button switch to one of the inputs on the bottom of the V2 and log it using the matching input from the External Analog PIDs folder when setting up BBX.
Yep. Basically that is what he said
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  #40  
Old 01-12-2018, 12:39 AM
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-table {0720} Main Injection Pulse: cell 80 MPa & 120 mm3 is not in line with others at 3660

-{B0992} & {B0993} Maximum Timing Map: whats with the 40+ degrees in the bottom left?

-EGR: use temperature conditions to disable the EGR.

-Desired Boost Low Altitude: you can add 8 to 10 PSI on the top end. these numbers are PSIA while the numbers you are seeing in the log are likely PSIG. so add your altitudes PSI to that number.

-Desired Boost Med Altitude: pretty much the same as low altitude but add 4 or 5 PSI at the top end.

-Desired Boost High Altitude: Same as the medium altitude

-for vanes: you can start with what you have (if you like the whistle) but I would run a log of the vanes and use those numbers to make adjustments. for upper altitudes, I would start by closing them up a little. maybe 5 or 10%. then whenever you happen to be up at one of those altitudes, run a log and adjust the tune. see here:http://www.fishtuning.com/VanePosition
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  #41  
Old 01-12-2018, 05:10 AM
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Ok so on the altitude, my truck probably won't go far from home so I I probably don't need to worry too much about that then right?

B0720 I didn't worry too much about the 120/80 cell area because I didnt think I would hit that area all and it just got bumped up when pushing other cells up.

B0908 I think I'm missing something I don't see 40 degrees any where? But I didn't change much if any in the left side because didn't think I'd be there at all so left it"stock "

Yea I like the whistle but more trying to warm it up faster. It's been cold here, well until yesterday but getting cold again quick. I'll change that out during warm months

I'll check out that link tonight!
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  #42  
Old 01-12-2018, 06:48 AM
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I dont have my computer so I havent looked at tour tune.

I wouldn't be bumping boost up if you making 30 psi now. There are 2 ways to tune boost in these trucks the vane/boost table or just the vane table. I learned with the vane/boost tables, but had to switch to just the vane table when I went with a modded stock turbo. Just something to think about.

You need to watch how much power you add on the stock trans. I think I stopped at 2400us on the big end.

There are cold start vane tables that you need to adjust. You don't do that in the normal vane tables. I built that into my tune but don't know if it really helped. If you clamp the vanes down you might be adding more heat but your also sucking in more cold air. I never got a chance to really test it.

I wouldn't mess with the high altitude tables until you're happy with what you got. That way you can just build them off what you have and are happy with.

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06 GMC 2500 CCSB SLT LBZ 4X4





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Last edited by Dozerboy; 01-12-2018 at 06:58 AM.
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  #43  
Old 01-12-2018, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
Wow i missed some stuff lol

OP, keep at it. The cummins guys were "born into efi live" so to speak so they didnt have to fight to figure out how to tune from scratch. tuning has become much more main stream than way back in the early 2000's when EFI Live added the duramax platform to their software. a whole lot of discussions were born to figure out the tuning in these trucks, what works, what doesnt, how to do better and so on.... till guys started ripping people off using their hard work as tunes to sell or profit off those willing to help cause they are too lazy to figure it out. Cummins guys just assume let a professional tuner handle it since their are so many already (even when it first was released). now because of the struggles way back when, you have TONS of threads on here and DP that are full of good and bad info. be careful what info you take for good and bad from old threads on DP and even some here. Times have changed and tuning has evolved.

You do not ever want to mess with defueling of a shift unless you 100% know what you are doing (and even then, most guys dont play with it). Defueling must stay in place to keep your trans and driveline parts alive. the allison is not a 48re and can tie up in gears giving you bad/hard shifts, this is a tie up. rule of thumb is, if it does not shift like stock after 50-100 miles of driving (mainly on a built trans, sooner on a stock trans), you have an issue. Flash the stock tune back in to verify the bad shifts go away and that it is in fact a tune issue.

Do not try to "make boost" meaning, dont try to clamp the vanes down and get more boost out of the turbo. you can kinda fudge this some on smaller tunes but you will be creating high drive pressures and really not gaining much at all performance wise.

you can use the vanes as a "turbo brake" for towing if you do tow. there are threads here on how to do that.

biggest thing is to make sure you get rid of the limiters that hold the tune from doing what you want it to.

3250-3350 is considered the "absolute max" for pulse width when messing with fueling but reality is, your CP3 will not handle it unless its new. Tune the truck to hold withing 1-2k rail pressure from commanded (if you command 26k and the truck makes 24-25k, you are doing good), this will be your max fueling till you get a lift pump and/or dual fuelers/larger cp3. Your stock pistons will not like to be hammered on with fuel and timing to keep that in mind.

timing is generally how ever much PW you use at WOT at 3250RPM divided by 100. so if you are using a 1850uS tune, at 3250RPM you should have 18* of timing. You can get by with more in cruise areas and even inch a little more in on top end for smaller tunes but its not wise to go too much more with your stock pistons. Josh H calc on here is a GREAT way for you to get your timing dialed, then play with from there.

there is more but thats the time i have right now.
Good Info James! Thanks
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  #44  
Old 01-12-2018, 07:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dylon333 View Post
ok guys I have literally spent every second of spare time I could find reading and playing around. I took a stock tune and started from scratch, and think ive made a decent aggressive street tune. truck seems to run very well, no smoke other then a hard stomp down on it I did see some but nothing crazy. egts get up around 1500 if I stay into but I'm around 100 mph at that point so letting out anyways.

My biggest concern is figuring out how far I can push it, without crossing the line! Ive been using joshs timing calculator, thank god he made that and shared it, but man the cummins calculator is way easier!

I'm going to post MY tune and if you guys get time take look and give me some pointers on where you think I could benefit, I will say my mileage went from 13.5 to 19, I reset it and have driven 150 miles or so and wouldn't call them easy as I was doing wot runs and still reading 19. Find out when I fill up I guess.

My biggest questions I'm still trying to figure out is the altitude tables, and what i can do with the turbo vanes on the top end if anything? my boost seems to stay under 30 which is what i think i want to be around, so wasn't sure if should mess with that much or not. I will say it pulls hard from a dig all the way till i let out!

I deff want more info on that adding a button that would be an awesome addition! hell i just started using the bbx logging and thinks that great ive always just used the laptop and kept a pad of paper and made notes while driving, not best idea but hey it worked!

Thanks for that info in max uS and timing info been looking for that and most i could find said 2000us was make safe but i figured that was probably older trucks.

anyways now that i have wrote a novel heres the tune let me know what you guys think!
Tune looks pretty damn good for your first go around with a dmax. Now its going to come down to logging and tweak. i agree with what everyone else has posted but if you are on a stock trans, thats a pretty hot tune for it. The 2000uS you found was probably for a stock trans safe tune but even then, thats hot in my opinion.

As for boost, i wouldnt add 10psi in. regardless if it has vanes or is a fixed geometry, you dont want to force the turbo to make boost unless you are trying to spool. Putting it on a dyno or putting a drive pressure gauge on is the best way to dial the vane positions in at WOT and max boost.
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James

02 LL7 2500HD CC/LB dmax/alli "The Limo"

BIG THANKS TO: Mike L, Steve, Trent, Guy, Dan, Ruben, Josh H, Scott, Brian and everyone else who has put a hand in to help me.

best time to date: 12.39

motor died/bent rods = 3/11/11
back from the dead 7:04pm 4/9/2012

Limo is back in the garage, now driving a built chevy tracker
Tailgate Crew Member #4
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  #45  
Old 01-12-2018, 07:23 AM
dylon333 dylon333 is offline
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Dozer boy... I'll look for those tables tonight. Thank you.. The trans is a stage one with converter, but not exactly sure what that consist of because I didn't build it. So I'm a little leary of it. I think I'm actually under 30 like more around 25ish after watching the edge box a little closer
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