Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #31  
Old 01-20-2013, 07:56 PM
Duradually2000 Duradually2000 is offline
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Someone may have already pointed this out but after doing my flush this morning I realized that I may have missed an important first step. If you crank up the heat and get the valve open that lets coolant circulate into the heater core before you shut the engine off for the last time before you flush the coolant you'll get most of the coolant out of the heater core on your first drain. Some of the procedures I have read in the past don't mention this step so I thought I'd just chime in here.
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  #32  
Old 01-28-2014, 03:22 AM
racerbob racerbob is offline
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Default Flushing coolant

I went with the Evans Waterless Coolant, but doing the complete drain out of ALL the water is a pain...The block drains are OK, but the radiator petcock is hard to get to. When all that is done there's still water in the large radiator hose so I cut the lower cross-over radiator hose at the lowest spot where it crosses the front of the engine, drained the rest of the water and used a short piece of 1-3/4" ID exhaust pipe to re-connect the hose..otherwise the ends of that large radiator hose are impossible to get to. It's a one-time fix for the coolant...interesting stuff.
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2006 GMC EC/SB: Linex, BD Exhaust Manifold, Banks Exhaust, Mag HyTec Tranny and Diff, "banana pan", Cognito Tie Rods, Titan Tank, Amsoil end to end, Evans Coolant, 17" Tires and Rims.
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  #33  
Old 10-06-2014, 02:09 PM
rdepas rdepas is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racerbob View Post
I went with the Evans Waterless Coolant
Old thread here, but I am due for a coolant change and wanted to know how the Evans Waterless Coolant is working for you. May save me the PITA of changing coolant again in the future.
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  #34  
Old 01-09-2017, 12:02 PM
dieselfelon dieselfelon is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racerbob View Post
I went with the Evans Waterless Coolant, but doing the complete drain out of ALL the water is a pain...The block drains are OK, but the radiator petcock is hard to get to. When all that is done there's still water in the large radiator hose so I cut the lower cross-over radiator hose at the lowest spot where it crosses the front of the engine, drained the rest of the water and used a short piece of 1-3/4" ID exhaust pipe to re-connect the hose..otherwise the ends of that large radiator hose are impossible to get to. It's a one-time fix for the coolant...interesting stuff.
Racebob, I like your idea of cutting the hose and using a connection. It got me wondering if there was a product available. I bought this last year and been trying to find time to install it. I've been waiting to post until after I could speak with firsthand experience about it.
http://mfrindustries.com/
I finally found some down time over the holidays and got it done. It was a painless non-event.
To drain the coolant in preparation of installation, I poked the lower hose with a knife and them jammed a piece of air brake line in it. I used the air brake line to direct the draining coolant stream into a pail. By doing that, I didn't have to pull a lower radiator hose end off and dump that crap all over the floor or into a Walmart kiddy pool that I will have no other use for. I poked the hole in the lower hose at the location at which the new drain would be installed. Once the coolant had completely drained, I sliced the hose and trimmed the ends square and installed the drain. I used heavy duty "T" bolt style clamps like used on hydraulic return or suction hose. I ordered a few different size clamps to be sure I would have the right size on hand to complete the installation. The clamp that fit best was stamped 2.2"-2.32". The drain plug is 1/2"-20 thread. In fact, the supplied drain plug looks to be an engine oil drain plug for GM engines used for over 40 years and available at any Napa. It's nice to know that if I need to drain my coolant, it will be quick, clean and hassle free. I hate cleaning up anti-freeze mess from the shop floor.
Mike
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