Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #16  
Old 03-25-2018, 06:47 PM
N2BRK N2BRK is offline
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I've used them at stock height and with Roadmaster Active Suspension springs cranked up a couple inches. I also used them unloaded and fully squatted with no issues, and on multiple trucks. They were pretty much invisible.

I did swap them for Caltracs on the street. They ride like shit but I love them. LOL

[QUOTE=frankenstien;1097283]
Quote:
Originally Posted by N2BRK View Post
http://www.duramaxforum.com/forum/su...yable-guy.html might give you an idea.[/QUO

Thanks, I might try getting some of those tabs that weld to the axle, i might be able to make room for them. also, is your truck lifted in the back? i have a add a leaf worth an inch. i also use air bags that lift the back maybe 2''? so my bars arent as flat as they should be
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Old 03-25-2018, 09:24 PM
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[QUOTE=N2BRK;1097288]I've used them at stock height and with Roadmaster Active Suspension springs cranked up a couple inches. I also used them unloaded and fully squatted with no issues, and on multiple trucks. They were pretty much invisible.

I did swap them for Caltracs on the street. They ride like shit but I love them. LOL

nice, ill have to get some of those axle tabs and see what i can do
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  #18  
Old 03-25-2018, 10:39 PM
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hers some pics of my bars when i made them and how they looked the day i broke them.

maybe welding shorter brackets on the axle tube might level them out with out shackles?
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File Type: jpg sideview.jpg (94.8 KB, 73 views)
File Type: jpg bars.jpg (199.1 KB, 72 views)
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  #19  
Old 03-26-2018, 08:55 AM
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They dont look to be at that bad of an angle at all and length looks ok too . Maybe you can just adjust your air bags according to your load , that is , unloaded is as important as loaded !
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  #20  
Old 03-26-2018, 06:01 PM
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You need some flex built into it. This is from off-road design but you could make it yourself
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File Type: png 8AC02121-F07E-4CCB-A1AD-F5A60EFA85B3.png (164.5 KB, 55 views)
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  #21  
Old 03-26-2018, 07:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeyD View Post
You need some flex built into it. This is from off-road design but you could make it yourself
yes! this is the type i am putting on my 74 with a 6'' lift. they make a kit to use that is everything minus the DOM. they use a johnny joint up front and a shackle

i might swap the bushing end for a johnny joint and have the heim joint at the other and see how it does. I am going to weld tabs to the axle tube this time(I think) have to find some tabs
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  #22  
Old 03-26-2018, 09:04 PM
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Personally, I see a u-bolt issue and not an axle wrap bar issue.

What are using for bushings? How many times have you reused those u bolts and what are you tightening them to?

If you use a single triangulated axle wrap bar, you better weld the housing to the axle tube. Two would spread the load out without the need for welding unless you go sled pulling

Iíve ran axle wrap bars like yours that i built for my self and friends about 7 years ago. I tow very heavy (2200lbs pin weight with a 15k toy hauler on the back and no air bags) and have 4Ē blocks. Never had this issue no anyone I know running the bars I built but I also replace u-bolts every time they come off.
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  #23  
Old 03-26-2018, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
Personally, I see a u-bolt issue and not an axle wrap bar issue.

What are using for bushings? How many times have you reused those u bolts and what are you tightening them to?

If you use a single triangulated axle wrap bar, you better weld the housing to the axle tube. Two would spread the load out without the need for welding unless you go sled pulling

Iíve ran axle wrap bars like yours that i built for my self and friends about 7 years ago. I tow very heavy (2200lbs pin weight with a 15k toy hauler on the back and no air bags) and have 4Ē blocks. Never had this issue no anyone I know running the bars I built but I also replace u-bolts every time they come off.
The U bolts were brand new when I installed the bars, I had to cut the old ones off. I had my Local shop bend them up for me, iirc they are 5/8'' rod. I also replace them when they come off, i have always been told thats what you do with them.


I am using 2 5/8'' wide 2'' diameter bushings at the frame and heim joints at the axle with spacers to allow for more movement, i believe they are 7/8'' shank and 7/8'' hole iirc. I got an extra set of the axle cups that the u bolts go through on the axle and welded a flat plate on them and some ears for the heim.

I do not intend on using a triangulated arm on my LLY, I am thinking about using the same type tabs in N2BRK's thread (https://thorbros.com/4-link-parts/4-...-link-axle-tab) like that. welding them to the bottom of the tube to take the stress off the U bolts.

the heaviest thing i have carried with them on is my 400 gal water tank approx 3400lbs in the bed with air bags, and tow a camper thats approx 5klbs. the truck i was towing home when it broke, was maybe 5k? ish
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  #24  
Old 03-27-2018, 07:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankenstien View Post
The U bolts were brand new when I installed the bars, I had to cut the old ones off. I had my Local shop bend them up for me, iirc they are 5/8'' rod. I also replace them when they come off, i have always been told thats what you do with them.


I am using 2 5/8'' wide 2'' diameter bushings at the frame and heim joints at the axle with spacers to allow for more movement, i believe they are 7/8'' shank and 7/8'' hole iirc. I got an extra set of the axle cups that the u bolts go through on the axle and welded a flat plate on them and some ears for the heim.

I do not intend on using a triangulated arm on my LLY, I am thinking about using the same type tabs in N2BRK's thread (https://thorbros.com/4-link-parts/4-...-link-axle-tab) like that. welding them to the bottom of the tube to take the stress off the U bolts.

the heaviest thing i have carried with them on is my 400 gal water tank approx 3400lbs in the bed with air bags, and tow a camper thats approx 5klbs. the truck i was towing home when it broke, was maybe 5k? ish
well that explains why they broke. notice how they broke right at the bend? that is the weak point when you bend steel. Then you put the rod under high tension at the stretched point and snaps. what ever steel they use is junk to be bent and then torqued to what ever torque you sucked them down to (need to know where you are torquing these to still or if you are just hammering them down with an impact). i wouldnt use those again though.

what kind of bushing though, IE: poly, delrin, rubber, etc.

changing the bushing at the frame while having heims on the axle side wont stop anything. you are not out articulating the heim joint by any means as im sure you have high misalignment spacers on them as well.

in my opinion, this a u-bolt/torque issue hands down. not the axle wrap bars. yes the bars dont help as they cause pinion angle change through the suspension travel (makes the axle move in an arc instead of straight up and down or close to it like the spring will move) but the change you are seeing is nothing like the change i had when i ran a deaver mini pack and loaded the truck down with my toy hauler when i first bought it. i have no bump stops and with the 5th wheel on the truck, my leaf pack was in a 3-4" negative arch (extremely bad on leafs not designed for that) and had an S look to them from the bars. i actually hauled the trailer quite a few times that way till i got air bags on, then ditched the mini pack and bags to put the overloads back in and run the truck as is. If the bolts are breaking from pinion change, i dont see how they are going to hold the axle when you load the truck, hit the throttle and get axle wrap when you run no bars. that could get scary fast.
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  #25  
Old 03-27-2018, 12:22 PM
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I would never mount the back end of the bar to the spring pad you're just asking for problems I welded my traction bar mount on the axle side directly to the axle tube.
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  #26  
Old 03-27-2018, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chevy1925 View Post
well that explains why they broke. notice how they broke right at the bend? that is the weak point when you bend steel. Then you put the rod under high tension at the stretched point and snaps. what ever steel they use is junk to be bent and then torqued to what ever torque you sucked them down to (need to know where you are torquing these to still or if you are just hammering them down with an impact). i wouldnt use those again though.

what kind of bushing though, IE: poly, delrin, rubber, etc.

changing the bushing at the frame while having heims on the axle side wont stop anything. you are not out articulating the heim joint by any means as im sure you have high misalignment spacers on them as well.

in my opinion, this a u-bolt/torque issue hands down. not the axle wrap bars. yes the bars dont help as they cause pinion angle change through the suspension travel (makes the axle move in an arc instead of straight up and down or close to it like the spring will move) but the change you are seeing is nothing like the change i had when i ran a deaver mini pack and loaded the truck down with my toy hauler when i first bought it. i have no bump stops and with the 5th wheel on the truck, my leaf pack was in a 3-4" negative arch (extremely bad on leafs not designed for that) and had an S look to them from the bars. i actually hauled the trailer quite a few times that way till i got air bags on, then ditched the mini pack and bags to put the overloads back in and run the truck as is. If the bolts are breaking from pinion change, i dont see how they are going to hold the axle when you load the truck, hit the throttle and get axle wrap when you run no bars. that could get scary fast.
I am guilty of not torquing the U bolts, i snug them with the impact equally, then use my 18'' handle ratchet to tighten them down evenly, I will say they are F@#$ing tight, i get them locally, they are the only place local to me that makes them to length, i needed a little longer for the add a leaf, i have used them many times for my 74 and never had any break.

I am using a poly bushing. yes i have misalignment spacers on the heim
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  #27  
Old 03-27-2018, 04:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OregonDMAX View Post
I would never mount the back end of the bar to the spring pad you're just asking for problems I welded my traction bar mount on the axle side directly to the axle tube.
thats what im thinking just weld some tabs on the axle tube
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  #28  
Old 03-27-2018, 04:51 PM
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Your 74 doesn’t put down ANYWHERE NEAR the amount of torque your duramax does. Any time you bend something it creates a weak point.
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  #29  
Old 03-27-2018, 05:14 PM
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Quote:
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Your 74 doesn’t put down ANYWHERE NEAR the amount of torque your duramax does. Any time you bend something it creates a weak point.
Yes! I forgot to state that my Dmax puts down way more. But I did use it for about 2 years straight to haul my water tank. And the 74 wheel hops like no other
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Last edited by frankenstien; 03-27-2018 at 05:29 PM.
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  #30  
Old 04-04-2018, 11:01 AM
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Got my bracketa to weld on my rear axle tube, do you guys just disconnect the batteries when welding on your truck? Or do you just go to town? I just dont want to damage any electronics
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