Duramax Diesels Forum Truck of the Week
  #16  
Old 06-20-2017, 01:29 PM
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No problem. Always good to have someone look over the numbers even if small mistakes happen. Someone will eventually catch a big one and save my a$$
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2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.
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  #17  
Old 07-03-2017, 01:38 PM
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here is my latest plan for the trailer now that i have it and can start making real measurements and planning things out
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2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.

Last edited by 2004LB7; 07-03-2017 at 02:14 PM.
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  #18  
Old 07-03-2017, 07:30 PM
jlawles2 jlawles2 is offline
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What are your plans for grey and black water storage? Also do not see any LPG storage. You might need that for cooking, hot water, and gas refrigerator (if you plan on the one). What about a converter / battery charger? 24v is nice, but you may have issues finding appliances since most RV's are set to run on 12V.

220 gallons (1,800+ lbs)on water on the neck is quite a bit. You might want to stand them up if possible to minimize slosh and / or set them up to draw individual not in parallel.
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----Looking to do an onboard air with a set of truck air horns. Want Nathan K5LA's but not in the budget at the moment.----

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Old 07-03-2017, 09:13 PM
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Toilet will be a composting toilet so no black water. Gray water will be in a tank under the floor up front by the door. I dont know what size i will use yet.

If i use any propane it will be with a camping stove and nothing built in. Otherwise i plan on cooking (minimally/as needed) with electricity. 2kw solar on the roof. The charge controler and inverter will be back with the batteries on the wall. I may wire the batteries in series for 48 volts to lower the current and thus the wire gauge. This will make the charger work less hard too. But... If it gets to hard to find a 48v inverter or it cost too much i may stick with 24 volts as those are easy to find. Most everything will run on the 120 volt inverter power. Dedicated items like lighting will be right off the batteries.

No RV/propane fridge here. Standard chest cooler running on 120v from the inverter. I sized the solar panels for winter charging with my planed loads. So in the summer i will have more then enough power. I may even put a small 3k btu AC in.

The tongue on the trailer is rated at 4k lbs and my truck can do quite a bit more than that with minimal squatting. I was planning on valving each water tank so i can drain one at a time or all at once. I didn't really think about the sloshing. Good point. I was thinking to drain then all the same so the weight distribution would be even. I will measures out the space to see if i can get them upright. That would help cut down sloshing and i could draw evenly

Was not really planning on any hot water but maybe I will run some plumbing on the roof to heat a small amount of water. Otherwise i will be a cold shower
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  #20  
Old 07-03-2017, 09:30 PM
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Well you got me curious so i went out and measured the space. I will have about 4 inches above the water tanks. It is tight. Wont have much room for plumbing connections but i think it will work

Having them upright will allow more water to fit and be drawn from the barrels.. Takes up less floor space too.
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  #21  
Old 07-04-2017, 06:08 AM
jlawles2 jlawles2 is offline
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stand the barrels up and you might have room for an extra bunk.

You are more efficient using low voltage lights instead of an inverter.

You might consider setting up for external propane just in case. Also might look into either an rv hot water heater or an on demand rv hot water heater for washing dishes and holding tank for solar hot water.
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Silver Birch Metallic 2004.5 GMC K2500HD with 265/75's
Banks super scoop, tubing, intercooler, and cat back with the IQ on the Window (for now). BD driver side Exhaust manifold.
Airdog 150 on frame rail. Amsoil synthetics for lubrication, and dual Amsoil filters on the driver frame rail. PPE centrifuge install.
EGR blocked. PCV rerouted. Resonator blocked (reinstalled for looks). Bladerunner installed. Dead kitty by MBRP (front pipe) and down tube replaced with the MBRP (heat wrapped from the turbo down to the front pipe).
Performax Gauges by ISSPRO in pod over mirror and overhead console (console pod by PPE). Mike L Transmission.
----Looking to do an onboard air with a set of truck air horns. Want Nathan K5LA's but not in the budget at the moment.----

06 GMC CCSB 2WD LBZ SLT package. Traded for '17 Denali

17 Denali CCSB 2500 4WD Stone Blue with Cocoa/Dark Sand Interior
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  #22  
Old 07-04-2017, 12:26 PM
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I plan on LED lighting with a PWM dimmer for maximum efficiency.

i want to use this trailer for extended stay boondocking or dry camping (or if it comes to it a SHTF scenario). so i am trying to limit the amount of consumables that will dictate how long i can stay out. right now the two limits are water and food. if i can harvest water from a stream then it becomes only food.

if i start relying too much on gas/propane then i will need a large storage of it. also if becomes unavailable for some reason (marshal law, SHTF, economic collapse, etc) then i am kind of scr#wed. not that this is its primary purpose. but would like to add some contingencies.

cooking will likely (based on prior camping experience) be mostly outdoor over a campfire with some minor cooking inside on the hot plate. in the event of bad weather there should be enough battery capacity for a few days of inside cooking based on my math

back to the water, maybe i could go with several of the 30 gallon water barrels instead of the 55 gallon to reduce the sloshing and provide more room for plumbing. placed upright i could do 3 or 4 on each side with space down the middle.
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  #23  
Old 07-11-2017, 03:23 PM
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Some food for thought....

For SHTF use, you are relying 100% on solar, you might want to think of a backup of sorts (generator), you are already relying on your truck to haul it, which means you will need diesel. Nuclear fallout/nuclear winter, you might not see the sun for a really long time.

Aside from that, I would try and put the fresh water in the belly. From the floor plans I saw, its in the gooseneck, which means that the water is up high (always go for a low center of gravity) and it also means that your truck is eating all the weight, I would try and put it closer the the axles under the trailer (similar to how toy haulers do it), only downside to that is you would need a pump and couldn't rely solely on gravity feed. You could also move your bed up to there and get more storage space on the ground if you moved the water.

In terms of licensing, not sure how "gray" you wanna get. But farmers/ranchers have livestock exemptions, that you can tow over weight if your going to from/ranch. I dont recall what the limit or distance is though. More times than not CHP wont mess with people hauling stock trailers... You also dont have to pay pleasure use taxes on it that way (I know you have to pay that on boats, and I thought toy haulers/RV but not sure on that either)....
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  #24  
Old 07-11-2017, 11:06 PM
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all good points. thanks for the input.

i don't know if i am necessarily planning on a Nuclear fallout/nuclear winter contingency plan, as i think there would need to be much more to it then a bug out plan. bunker, radiation and air filter/masks, long term food stores. the plan would have to potentially hold you (and your friends & family) over for many years. i was thinking more for civil unrest, riots, natural disasters, marshal law or similar events where you may need to hunker down and lay low for a few months or get out of the disaster zone and have somewhere to stay until things are back under control.

think hurricane Katrina or Sandy. maybe a large earthquake in california (the big one) or perhaps too many people are upset over the government/taxes/gun control or whatever and are burning down buildings, rioting, etc and the president calls a state of emergency and sends in the troops.

i want it to be able to do the dry camping first and foremost with the capability of longer term r emergency camping if needed.

i am looking into 48 volt alternators for charging from the truck if needed. I don't want to have to haul an extra generator if i can get away from it. noisy, burns lots of gas, etc.

the biggest issue i see is the availability of fuel after services are cut off. being that my truck is diesel i can probably put together a black diesel/W85 filtering system (like i already have in my garage) or simple oil cracker for processing all of the used oil sitting in all of the abandoned vehicles. if i was required to camp or hide for a year or more.

i am somewhat worried about the weight up high with the water on the tongue. but i know it is not a direct weight issue for the truck. i calculate about 4000 lbs tongue weight and i have plenty of times put around 5000 pounds in the bed and it wasn't even on the secondary overloads. i am kind of basing my assumption (bad i know) on the fact that i have seen many gooseneck car haulers driving around with just one car at the very front up top over the truck with nothing else on the trailer to help stabilize it. if it was too unstable i would think i wouldn't see very many do it around here. but i may be wrong. also if it proves to be a little top heavy i can always travel with them empty or maybe one or two with water in them and then fill up closer to the camp site

If i recall correctly; here in california i think the farmers have to have papers proving they are hauling for a ranch or farm and they are also limited to 150 miles of the farm(s). CHP has slowly been cracking down on this due to abuse

Horse trailers (if not for farm use as mentioned above) are limited to the same as a utility trailer. that is what it is currently registered as. this theoretically puts me into the "CDL" category as the truck is GVWR of 14k and the trailer is 14k so 28k GCWR. 2k over the 26k limit. if it is converted to a camper then i no longer have this weight limit.

but... regarding the "gray" area. as a utility trailer, i get "permanent" plates. and how often will the CHP question the GVWR of the trailer and pull me over to check? but if they do and see that it is registered as a utility trailer and has living quarters i may get a ticket or fines so i thought it would be best to just register it as a camper or coach trailer. but because it still looks like a horse trailer it will still be pretty stealthy but all of the paperwork will be in order.

man, all my posts seem to be long winded...
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  #25  
Old 07-12-2017, 04:33 AM
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Where's the guns & ammo storage gonna be? Will there be an armored area to hide in and shoot from if it gets bad and a shootout occurs, otherwise your stuck in a tin can and it won't be hard for someone to knock you off and steal your rig.
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  #26  
Old 07-12-2017, 10:27 AM
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haha, i cant tell if you are serious or joking.
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2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.
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  #27  
Old 07-12-2017, 11:18 AM
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What about putting the PTO in the trans and getting a pto generator? That way you are utilizing the capability you have with the truck, and you'll have the extra capacity should the need arise.
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  #28  
Old 07-12-2017, 11:26 AM
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hmm, not a bad idea. if it is not too expensive then that may be the way to go. there is far more that it could be used for then just charging or powering the camper. i will have to add that to my list of things to price out
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2008 Chevrolet 3500HD DRW LTZ
285/75/17 Nitto Dura Grapplers, 4.56 gears, Front and rear ARB lockers, Efi Live tuning by me, Raptor 160 LP, Cognito 4-6 NTB Lift, 4" Exhaust, Built Trans by Mike L.
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  #29  
Old 07-12-2017, 02:39 PM
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looks like the PTO generators run about $4k+ for a 10 or 12 KW unit. haven't seen any that are closer to 3 or 4 KW. also i would still have to have the transmission pulled and the PTO gear put in.

not looking very economical price wise. i could get a 2 or 3 KW honda inverter generator for less and it would be much more fuel efficient. quiet and portable. if i end up getting a generator for this that is probably the route i would go. if only they made a similar model generator that ran on diesel
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